I agree with fordcragar. I broke the input shaft on the saginaw 4 spd in my 55. They can break with as little noise as a pop!!. Let me know what ya find cause im putting a T5 in my truck!
Is your pilot bearing a bushing or roller bearing type? Ever hear a trans with a bad pilot bushing? It can make the same sounds and keep the input shaft from stopping completely. You will get chatter, humming, whinning hard to down shift. It will even make you think you have a bad throw out bearing. Had it happen to me. All I did was replace the pilot bearing and all was good again.
to all who asked it is a pilot bushing that extends beyond the crank to compensate for the plate thickness. supplied with the kit. maybe it's my being optomistic, but I'm still laying my money on bad clutch disc sheered from the center section. haven't had time today to look at it at all. if I'm lucky will be able to get into it this weekend. stay tuned.
In my previous post above, I didn't know what was wrong when I pulled the trans. So, like I always did, after pulling all of the trans to bellhousing bolts I'd rock the trans a little to slide it back and then grab it to pull it out. Only this time when I rocked it back it started coming out and down all at one time. I did this on a rack and was able to control the transmission before it hit the floor. I just thought I'd warn you in case something similar happened to yours.,
You have what seems like multiple issues going on. The noise with clutch released usually points to the TO brg. But shifting issues across multiple gears points to more generic clutch release issues, not unlike the time my bellhousing bolts worked loose. Get on your back and check your work as best you can for the moment.
There is a lot of differing opinions on this. According to Ford, All Ford T5's NWC and WC use ATF, specifically calling out Dexron III. When Ford first started using T5's back in 83-84 they called out Dexron II, it is no longer available and some re-builders (and Tremec) recommend using 50WT gear oil in the NWC models. But Never use gear oil in a WC T5 as it will destroy the blocking ring material that was added to the syncros.
A bad T/O bearing would stop it from releasing. You can take the T/O bearing and the clutch fork out and if you put it in gear its gonna go forward, and he is saying it won't go when it goes into gear. He may have hurt the T/O bearing due to misadjustment or just a bad one, but that isn't why the car won't go.
I had this happen to me once. Here's what happened. I was at the dragstrip & was racing & missed a gear, the next thing I knew I couldn't shift it without it grinding, clutch pedal seamed fine & I had to drive it home which was an hour & a half away. When I got home I took the transmission out, the front throw out bearing retainer I had just bought & installed from Summit Racing had broke. I called Summit & it had just went past there supposed 30 day warranty & they wouldn't do anything about it. So end of the story is don't buy any of the Summit brand parts because there CHEAP! I would take the trans out & check the front bearing retainer, it might have broke!
Your 100% right here. ALL Ford T-5's call for ATF. If I remember correctly the best to use is the General Motors ATF?
thanks for the head's-up. unfortunatly, the only way to pull/check requires dropping the front clip and completly removing the motor and trans. that's the most frustrating part about this little issue. there's no quick fix. it's an all day job at best.
Not true. I have a '83 Mustang owners manual (used to have an '83 Mustang) and it calls for a Ford Gear oil which decodes to 70Wt gear oil. Ford changed their tune later in '85. But early NWC called for gear oil...even Ford. I'm pretty sure some early GM T5 called for synchromesh, which is gear oil. See above. You might be thinking of synchromesh oil...which is more like gear oil than ATF. I'd NEVER run motor oil in a transmission. The viscosity of that oil is probably fine - a little heavier than ATF, but not as heavy as gear oil - but there are no additives in it for use in a transmission. I used to use the 70wt in NWC, but now use Synthetic ATF in all of them, WC & NWC.
Some old British cars did use motor oil in the trans. Some transmissions cannot tolerate gear oil because it attacks the synchros and sometimes other parts like bushings, forks, or thrust washers.. For auto transmissions that do use gear lube, it's normally GL4. GL5 is for reat axles and again, can attack some of the metals. ATF is actually a pretty good lube, in some applications better than all but some select synthetics.
I thought they changed their tune in '85 with the WC T5...but there's no telling. I don't have my '83 manual handy - it's in storage - but it was a Ford p/n that decoded to 70WT Early transmissions do not tolerate EP additives as it eats some of the 'yellow' metals. That doesn't mean you should run motor oil in them, but something like GL1 ratings of the earlier oils.
Its my understanding that NWC T-5 had bearings that were fine with gear oil..when the WC transmissions came out the bearings were small needle bearings and thus required ATF to properly oil the bearings....
Life used to be so much simpler when the choices you had was 90 weight or 90 weight.... now you have to be a rocketfuckingscientist to fill up your gearbox. Bob
For current production T-5s, Tremec specifies ATF. It's not just older transmissions. many current manual transmissions can't tolerate the gear lube EP additives.
So true............... not only do NWC take Gear oil, you gotta watch what kind you use, I used Royal Purple initially until I read somewhere that it eats brass, I changed it out for Redline MTL.................. she's all good now..........I think, I hope !!!
The early (before synchro blocker materials required it) ATF adoption was for CAFE concerns since it takes less energy than gear oil. The fiber blocker materials used in the WC T5 and through most of the first 10 years of T56 production (pre-carbon) are not compatible with gear oil.
still no news. it's been raining here pretty much since i got back and don't have much of a shop to work in--that's why I drove 3 hours to do the swap initially. I hope to have some time over the upcoming holiday weekend to yank the engine an see what's up. I'll let ya'll know what I find.
I often wonder why the traditional police don't pounce on these t5 trans threads and front clip change over /weld in threads.
I would tell you what you can do with your definition of "traditional", but most likely the language police would ban me.
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