This is off my 38 dodge coupe has some rust through on two spots on the left rail. I would like to use the original chassis but not sure if the frame can be saved. I attached some pics of the bad spots I'd appreciate if you guys could tell if it can be rebuilt or scrapped. I was thinking I could wrap the two rusted areas with new C-chanel steel. On a side note I was going the S-10 route but decided to keep the oem frame, i
If the rest of the frame is solid you could graft in a piece of c channel . I would check the rest of frame to make sure it is solid maybe have it sandblasted to be sure rest of frame is pretty solid .
What is the tensile strength of rust? Personally I'd be nervous but I'm sure there is someone here who has saved worse.
I agree with mikeallcars on this, I'd either sandblast it to see what really there or take mean wire wheel to it, steal brush at that. If its just those spots it could be fixed but if it looks like that everywhere, itll be even worse, and once its blasted or a wire wheel taken to it itll show you what you really have to work with
Use it as a pattern and build a new if you have the ability or have someone else do it. I would not use that frame.
I think you start blasting that and trying to weld it up you would be opening a big can of worms. I'm not a fan of the S10 frame swap. Dodge makes a great frame. But this time......................
I do it for a living and we would not attempt a repair on this frame unless it was a one of a kind car. Anything can be repaired but it comes with a high price tag Throwing good money after bad. Just my 2 cents. Good luck! RS59
You really got to hate the rust belt. As much as I hate to say it, "can't be done ", I think she is done. Sad. Absolutely hate the S10 route, but you have to do what you have to do.
Nope, way too far gone...bodies this bad, maybe, but with a weak frame comes a weak car...scrap it...not worth lives!
Get to know some Dodge people. Some one will know of a car sitting some place that's been scavenged of all the good parts. Frames are usually the part being left behind. I had the same problem with my '37 Buick. The front crossmember was junk. I found a guy who stubbed his '40 Buick and got his solid front stub. After I got the "new" crossmember in I blasted the rest of the frame which I thought was in decent shape. Turned out to be Swiss Cheese and ended up buying a solid frame from a very well known Buick parts dealer. Got a really good deal on a frame under one of his parts cars.
So much on the entire car depends on a good, strong, straight frame that I would not take a chance on that one. It might cost you a few bucks to find and buy one from one of the western States, but in the long run you will be dollars ahead and safer. Don
OK, thanks for all the replys. I kind of figured it was ready for the scrap yard, I just wanted to make sure. Well I guess I can look on the bright side I have a good template to make another. Thanks again, Rustin38
As was mentioned, the cheaper route would be to find another good frame. You could probably pick one up for $200 - $300. I've had to do that in the past when a frame was too far gone. In my case, it wasn't a rust issue. Some previous owner decided to modify the frame and went nuts with a cutting torch. The body was pristine but he absolutely ruined the frame and X-member and I didn't have the skills at the time to fix it.
i would say its to far gone. but then again i would hit the thing with a wire wheel. there might be more good there on the parts we dont see the pics off. might be able to cut and weld some. but if the rest looks like that then get a new frame.
Don't know what years will interchange or be close enough to work on Dodge frames, but I know of a '40 Dodge that's been sitting on its top for 40+ years in an old junkyard near where I live, body is beyond hope but frame is solid.
Ditto on sandblast....If it looks like a screen door after, you're not out a lot of $,..or time. Agree...it does make a great pattern for fabbing a new one. 4TTRUK
Great opportunity to get some 2x3 and 2x4 tubing or pairs of open channel steel and mimic the existing side-forms. 3mmm or 1/8th thickness, contoured cutting of sides then reweld top or bottom "plates".
If it was me, I would sandblast it and inspect it closely. If there were only a few bad areas, I would bend up some long 1/8" plates and weld them on the inside, followed by plates butted in the original location. Then I would box the whole frame. Better than new! I am in the collision business and I don't know how many times that I have heard "That will never be right again" This just tells me that the person that is talking does not know how to fix it! I don't repair things to save money, I do it for the satisfaction of doing a good repair. Everything can be repaired, it just depends on your skill and the enjoyment that you recieve from it. AND... Don't forget that the Serial # on the frame matches your title and that is someplace you don't want to go.