Im running a later model 200 4R, rebuilt with mods by BowTies. You can get them built for any level of HP. Smoke the tires all of the time. Nice gear spread with the 3.73 rear I'm running Use a small B&M radiator mounted cooler and stay at 140-160 degrees all day in 100 deg. Az weather (Rod only weighs in at 2300 with me in it). That cooler makes a huge dif...heat kills. It fit in my frame without modifying where the 350 was. You'll find builders that swear by both.
I would KEEP the 400 Turbo and get a overdrive to put on the back of it. Gear Vendors makes a unit to bolt on the rear on the transmission. It is not cheap ... but it certainly works well and is almost indestructible. go here http://www.gearvendors.com/hrgm3s.html
If your just looking 2 keep it a daily driver/cruiser and keeping the 454 stock go with the 700r4. Remember a stock 454 in 1989 was a boat anchor only had a little over 200hp. However The "200-4r" not 2be confused with the cheapo 3speed "200c" is a bad ass trans ive heard of guys running north of 500hp with stock internals in the 200-4r (downside) A little more expensive and harder 2come by due 2 non hamb friendly builds, But remember the 700r4 is readily available and relatively inexpensive.
I have both types of trans - the 200 4R does duty behind a Paxton blown and intercooled 383 stroker with north of 650 hp - never a problem. The 700 R4 is bigger in every respect both internally and externally....
I have a couple of their 700R4s - I dealt with the owner - Lou - and have had no problems with their products. In fact they were great to deal with. I believe they relocated a couple of years back - what's the big deal about that? Businesses do that all the time....
I like the 700R4, especially in heavier vehicles, vehicles a little low on the power side, or with tall rear gears (for MPG purposes). The lower first gear helps get the ball rolling easier. Also, around the yards here, 200R4's are not all that plentiful, while a good 700R4 can be had for $125-400. In any case, get and hookup the lockup harness, and setup AND adjust the TV cable properly. There is no way that this can be emphasized enough. It is not hard to do right. Do it wrong, and you might not make it past the end of your driveway before you need another transmission.
Absolutely, use a 700R4. Guys, stay away from the 200R4's they are crap. All the cool guys use 700R4s. Ignore that stuff about the 1-2 spread, that stuff doesnt matter. <----Sarcasm (200R4 cores are getting pricey, and I need another one)
I don't have any experience with a 200 R but the 700R in my cpe has about 65,000 on it. My cpe weighs 3800 lbs. and I beat on it fairly good, the motor is a 425hp/454 crate. Deuce Roadster has point with the Gear Vendor option but it adds a fair amount of weight and length. I have a Gear Vendor unit in my CC dually with a 489" 4spd full throttle changes into OD are quick and are like an automatic with a shift kit when shifting
1987-91 were non-computer 700R4's with all the upgrades, the weak link in a 700R4 is the sun shell replace that with what is called "The Beast" http://www.ebay.com/itm/700R4-4L60-...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5893a2282a be sure and set the TV cable's final pressure with a gauge if you want it to live this is also a good investment http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRANSGO-700...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item27c6b7ae01 add the Corvette servo $20 and you will have a good unit.
Maybe you need to go back and re-read my post...Slowly Forget it, I just went back and added some visual aids. Gotta keep it HAMB friendly...
Have a 200R behind an OT vehicle torque brute olds 468 with a 2500 stall thats been shown no mercy. Its been hammered down the eighth around a hundred times and cruises at 2000 RPM at 60 with 3.42s. Never had one single issue. Like others have said better ratio than the 700 unless you need a lower gear to keep up......I don't, apparently lots of chebbys do
I'm gonna run the 700R4 with a mild shift kit built by Bowtie Overdrives in Hesperia. I heard I might have to notch the frame to make the tranny fit. It has an X-frame. Does anybody know if I'll have to modify the frame on my 58 caddy to fit the 700R4.
This is like whats better a Ford or a Chevy... FORDS of course BUT back to the trannys.. Have a 700R4 in my little V6 Turbo 92 OCC wagon. Only a 12 sec car. Has a mild build on the 700.. Broken it twice so far. Next time a 200R4 is goin in it.. We also run 200R4s in our Buick GN's.. Daughters street GN runs 9s @ 138 and is a DRIVER that gets 20 mpg. Roughly 740 rwhp outta that wussey V6. Bottom line.. Whatever floats your boat
Both can be made to handle lots of abuse. I built quite a few of both. As soon as you get inside them it becomes apparent the 700 is a stronger piece in stock form. I have to give the cost advantage to the 700 also. Add a Trans-go kit and replace a couple valves Trans-go recommends and you'll have a nice street strip piece. I have purchased cores for $50-$100 and I believe the Trans-go kit is under $100. You will need some trans building experience to install the kit. A few have mentioned the gear spread. I feel the tall 700 first gear (I think its 3.08) makes a street car a rocket off the line even with very conservative rear gearing. I am going with a 700 in my T coupe and I would not use a 200 unless I needed the B O P bellhousing pattern.
I know of some guys that have 200's and call them 700's don't know the difference. I hear guys say that you need an adapter for an overdrive to bolt to a BOP engine. really?? both trans need to be Built but the 200R4 is the better trans
Any info on notching the X-frame? It has a T-400 in it right now. I heard that the dimensions are similar. Is this true? Cuz if it is then no notching my frame. I'd rather not notch it but I will if need be. And thank u everyone for ur input.
My little red wagon, 55 Chevy, is happy with a 2004R tranny. Been in there many years and performs great with good fuel mileage behind a tiny HO 305. It's like the Ford/Chevy argument....whichever one you have or can get the best deal on. However the gearing and not having to change the driveshaft is a great bonus. Any fool can slide the crossmember back on either.
I see on the Bowtie Overdrive site where their 700R4 level 3 is a full manual valve body and requires no TV Cable. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
I have a 700 sitting in my shop and I don't think it's any bigger than a 400. I think you'll be very happy with a Bowtie Od 700. I'm running three of them in various cars. The low 1st gear will get that Cad rolling.
Something that hasn't been mentioned is TORQUE! I was told torque eats tranmissions, not horsepower. I have a 2004R in Faye with a 406CI, 3:89 gears and 32" tires, BUT she only weighs about 1200-1500 pounds. I think for a heavy Cad and a 454 the 700r4 might be the better choice. my 2 cents
The only thing that eats transmission is HEAT!!!... and Friction causes heat... You can snap things, but heat is a killer..
Here...talk to Scott - http://www.scottmcclayengineering.com/ He can build you either the three speed or the four speed version. Horse power....he's got the three speed version in 900hp Super Stock cars..! So...much for not holding the power. He's built me 2, 200-4R's (two different cars). He can also include a trans. brake if your of a mind..! Mike
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