Got a new cam and nice headers ready to go onto my 66 f100. I really want to put it all in and break it in with the headers. I know your supposed to "break" in the coating on the headers with certain heat cycles. Can anyone with experience tell me what the results will be if I disregard the headers instructions and just break in the cam.
FE 390, Tri power. I know I can use the stock manifolds to just break it in, but the headers are a bitch getting in and out as it is. My preferences are to put in the motor and frankfurt and running the exhaust with the headers then break it in. Thanks guys,
Frankfurt? WTF? I usually try to break in a cam using cast iron manifolds. Running at 2000 or so RPM for 20 minutes with no load on the motor usually results in some pretty high exhaust temps. Chances are high that the coating will flake off early in the life of the headers. So I don't have any experience with breaking them in along with a new cam/lifter break-in, but I can say that I've seen more than one pair of cast iron manifolds, and old steel tube headers, glow a dull red during a cam break-in. Why would virtually every manufacturer of ceramic coated headers recommend against doing this, if there wasn't a high probability of damage?
I broke in the big block in my `55 chevy with new Patriot ceramic coated headers and during the break in the headers glowed red to the first bend flattening the coating that far on the tubes. Carb way too lean. Haven`t seen any additional damage and the flattening hasn`t displayed any ill consequences since. Been four years. Still sucked though.
LOL, I have seen my headers glowing a dull red after a long haul at high RPM at night. Breakin is a lot harder on them then 100 miles of high rev cruising. frankfurt, I know they are hard to bolt up but you are still only boltinmg them up once, if you don't want to roach the coating break the cam in with stock manifolds or a set of junk headers.
beaners is right . use old manifolds or a old set of headers. i knew better and ruined a nice set of coated headers not braking in the cam first, them mounting headers. now i have a set of 400. headers that look like 100. headers.and i havent even takin the car out yet!ill be damned if i do it wrong again.lol
Regardless of the coating, plating, or paint, the breakin process is brutal on the finish. I'd temp something up and save the headers for after breakin.
Well good thing I read this thread, I have a really nice set of coated headers for a poly 318 and would really hate to ruin such a nice ($$) set.
Cast iron manifolds are always a good idea as they can absorb a lot of heat than headers are able to. Cast iron is a poor conductor of heat, but makes a great heat-sink. Bob
I'm having the same concern with the cam break-in on my a-body mopar. Good headers aren't cheap for these cars, much less a ceramic-coated set of dougs. My understanding is that cast-iron manifolds and muffled exhaust (not open) is best for cam break-in, so that you can also keep a good ear out for irregularities.
I know all the header instruction sheets say to use a temporary set of headers until you get the motor dialed in, but I have never had a second set of headers laying around so I just use the nice, new coated ones right from the git go. Never have dulled or damaged any, maybe because we run multiple carbs and are running a little rich. We've broken in a bunch of coated headers this way with good results. Don
It helps to keep the timming a little fast. I can't count the headers I have seen blued or burn up because it was timed slow.
Okay, Im armed with the info I need. I use the old manifolds and run some pipe thru the old glass pace. Thanks guys
I am guessing it is way different with paint at home coatings as my headers have not held up regardless of what I have tried with multiple tries.
I have a set of sanderson cast headers on my sbc that were coated.used no special break in an the coating is still there. Deucemanab
I broke in my motor with coated headers and didn't have any problem. Your timing has to be close and your valves need to be adjusted right. I have two friends that flattened their coated headers on break in because their valves were set to tight. Bill
I just realized the headers I ordered were the hedman thermal coated elite headers. Not the Ceramic Coated headers I had ordered, Any thoughts in regard to these ones?
Two things will dull the headers. Timing retarded or a large intake leak. So as soon as it fires Time it. You will be at 2-2500 rpms so 38 degrees total and You will be just fine. Also Stock center jets will be 62s. Bump them up to 65 or 66s for the breakin. After You put a few miles on it jet it back down. And get the right powervalve acording to Your vacum. Fed
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