My '56 Buick build *or* How to completely destroy a car

53 and 54 nailheads had windage tray that will bolt to your 56 motor for free HP. and 401/425 aluminium rocker set will bolt on and gove 1.6 ratio over the 1.5 of the 322 rockers. I found these on e bay when I redid this motor.

 

Mark those piston rods with a number punch 1,2,3, etc. Or with a center punch .=1, ..=2, ...=3 and so on, the white out will wash away. You also mentioned the cam looked good, I hope your not thinking of reusing it.

 

Well, i was thinking of having the machine shop clean it up and reusing it...but i'm gonna guess that i probably shouldn't?

 

Don;t reuse it. If you already have it down this far, get a new one. It is pretty cheap insurance at this point.

 

Do not get one of those Thumpr cams, they are not correct for a Nailhead. Get a Carmen Faso cam.

 

Fair point. I can probably use all the insurance i can get. The less possible points of failure the better.

Thanks for the heads up, zman. I'll give him a call when the time comes. Also: i remember reading a thread from a few years back where you said you weren't fond of the Kanter engine rebuild kits? Is that still true?

 

Wait you're making a HUGH mistake Ok...before you do anything else, finish something. Can't tell you how many people I see that are hell bent on taking everything apart at once and have stuff scattered all over the property. Did your car run/drive before you tore it apart? If so, I've learned to try and get to know the car a little by driving it and having some fun with it. If it didn't run then I understand but it's cool as hell to drive them. The car looks like it's in pretty good shape for a survivor. A friend of mine had one in high school in the late 60s and we used to race out on the open two lane black top. That Buick would hang with the weight and all at about 110 easy(remember its TLBT not interstate).
Anyway, have some fun with it and enjoy the build. Chow for now. Aman.

Edit: Oh, uh, get new lifters and bearings with the new cam OK? I can't tell if your full of BS or serious about not knowing anything. Sorry it's my internet judgement, sometimes it gets impaired.

 

Do they make a thumper for a 322 the 264/322's take a different cam from later Nailheads.

 

I wasn't sure if they did or not really, but I know they are wrong for the 364/401/425

 

I haven't bought anything from them in a few years, I prefer to source actual brand name parts and end up saving money too. It's funny how many of these packages I see that are more than the individual parts. First order if business is find a real parts store with real parts guys. It'll make it a lot easier.

 

I like your approach. That motor looks solid. Dont go nuts on it yet. Check the cylinders out, i bet a basic overhaul is just the ticket. And like others have said always use a new cam/lifters and a new oil pump. And before you go with discs I'd get the drums working good first, drum brakes work fine- you might find out you dont need discs. If you work with the parts you have and worry about upgrades later you'll spend time enjoying the car instead of staring at it, trust me on this one.

 

When i bought it in 2010, it drove. And i drove it for 2010 and into 2011. It had some problems with the starter and electric fuel pump that had been added by the previous owner, as well as a bunch of junk in the gas tank. So since i want to be able to drive it without sweating bullets over it breaking down on short drives, i figured it would be a good idea to refresh it and change a few things while i'm at it.

Oh, i am 100% serious. I understand how things go together, and i get the general idea of how part A interacts with part B. But this is my first time doing anything more than changing a timing belt or starter on a car. So any advice is welcome, for sure.

Do you have a recommendation for a place to buy the parts online? There are a few parts stores with good reps around here, but i'd imagine that the gaskets and pistons and all for a much older car would be pretty hard to come by.

The drums were a little soft, even after some tweaking. And driving up here is an adventure in a car from 2002, nevermind something 50+ years old. Haha. But you're right, i'm trying to keep the upgrades to a minimum, so i can get back to driving the car.

 

Looking good Chris!
Keep it up, and you'll be back on the road in no time.

I'm doing something similar to my Olds right now.
Let me know if I can help with anything.

Oh, and you need to come to one of the VA HAMB breakfasts. For sure!

 

NAPA, Rock Auto, Russ Martin. But like I said I have much better luck with the local parts store. It's all the same stuff, the specialty places mark it way up.

 

Looking good. Can't wait to see more

 

Busy weekend. But i got a great deal accomplished, and it's almost time to start spending money.

Last weekend i stopped during the engine disassembly after a main cap bolt outfought me and stayed tightened down. Well this friday, i borrowed some tools from my neighbor, and among them was a long 3/4" drive ratchet. Legitimately 2 minutes after getting it in my hands, that main cap bolt was undone. Thus, the rest of the engine disassembly went without a hitch. Crankshaft came out, pistons came out, then the camshaft and lifters came out as well. Surprisingly, for as grody as the block is, the internals are is pretty decent shape. The block is ready for the machine shop, and hopefully a quick cleaning & honing, plus some new freeze plugs and petcocks should be all i need. Let's hope.

Got back into it on sunday, and finished up most of the suspension disassembly. Took the wheels off and took the drums & backing plates off, then compressed the passenger side spring and loosened up the lower control arm. The upper control arm had some nuts that were stuck, and turning with the bolts when i tried to undo them. But MAN, coil springs are kind of terrifying. I thought i had compressed the spring enough, but apparently i was not correct, because when i undid the lower control arm, the spring changed its position very rapidly. So then i took a break to get some water.

I got my hands on an impact gun, and used it to snatch the stuck bolts holding the upper control arm in, and the whole assembly was off. I also got a pitman arm puller and got the center link the rest of the way off.

So now all i need to do is figure out how the steering knuckle and shafts can be removed from those control arms. I have the shop manual, but i could use a few more diagrams to show exactly what i'm supposed to be doing. After that, it's time to start throwing some money around. I don't even know where to start. Machine shop? Transmission rebuild? Suspension rebuild kit? POR-15 to start painting the frame bits that i have exposed and the control arms?

I've got a lot of options. But i gotta say, it feels pretty good to be 90% of the way through the hardcore tearing down that i planned to do on this build! And now, pictures ahoy!

The block! Grimy, but ready for the shop.


A few of the cylinders


Here's a detail. Those spots are just some dirt that's fallen in during the teardown.


Passenger side suspension bits are free!


The brake hardware and drums look pretty good. Maybe i'll see if someone wants to take this stuff off my hands.




Frame shots. Featuring the liquid wrench that i use by the cubic ton.




Check out these gnarly motor mounts. These guys were chewed up something fierce.

 

Here is a link to a few pics I took when doing my suspension. A word of caution, keep track of the left side and the right. I used a punch to designate which was which.

http://s799.photobucket.com/albums/yy274/29roadsterpu/Buick%20Suspension/?start=all

a few of them show how the uprights come apart and how the king pin and bearing are arranged, etc.

 

Go cat go!

 

just owning a 56 buick makes u cool as hell no matter how it comes out!!!! take your time, no short cuts, stay focused, and you will have a sweet ride in no time!!

 

Good job keep it up! That engine looks to be in great shape, you got really lucky there! I'm enjoying the updates. Its fun to start spending money but boy will it go fast!

 

You should keep those brakes. Get new springs for them, new hoses, new wheel cylinders, new shoes and turn the drums only if they need it. They look great and will stop the car just fine AND go back easier and faster than the disc brake conversion you are contemplating.

Andy

 

Woah, thanks for all the comments, guys! Being able to post photos and updates to this thread is really helping keeping the momentum going.

Awesome. I was actually just about to PM you and ask about this kind of thing. Thanks a ton, this will be super helpful.

Yeah, i'm surprised the drums and hardware look as good as they do. I might just consider keeping them, but updating the lines and tightening them up.

 

Make certain when you put that engine back together you use oil with zinc in it...I prefer Rotella...the newer oils do not have zinc in them...and if you use a newer oil there's a good chance the new cam will go flat...I'm certain someone else will chime in on this so don't take my word for it.

And please, don't tear it down so far that you get discouraged and are not able to put it all back together...I've seen that happen a few times and my '55 Cadillac was that way...the P.O. lost interest and I took over. Have you seen my build:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=329070&highlight=the+best+55+caddy+build
R-

 

This is shaping up to be a great little thread! I've subscribed!

 

A lot of folks who know more havent done as much. Me included. I've never taken off a front clip. The rest, yup.
Air tools are like waking up one day and realizing "Hey, I'm modern man"!!
Keep going spend the money and you'll have one of the coolest.

 

Thanks for the heads up about the zinc. Is there a zinc additive i can get? Is it possible to overload on zinc in the oil?

Woah, your Caddy build is intense. WAY above my pay grade, but man it's awesome and detailed.

 

Yes there are additives. You can do a search on it and spend hours and hours reading. I am using Edelbrocks new oil. Got it from Summit with no shipping. Also using their break-in oil. I was told from Dimitri Elgin, Elgin Cams, that you can overload on zinc and it is not a good thing.

 

Good thread, Go man go.

OIL: My motor builder encouraged me to use Brad Pinn "The Green Oil". It has a lots of zinc. Also Lucas Racing oil makes an oil modifyer whith zinc which you ad to regular oil. I understand that too much zinc does not equal "Extra protection".

Oil Filter: Choose a quality brand. Wix or Penzoil are what I use now.

Trio Gauges: A must have when doing the break in. Gota have good info about what's going on in that sweet motor.

Good call 40StudeDude.

Good luck Horrorshow

 

Looks like you're off to an awesome start. I love 4-dr hardtops. Best of luck with it.

 

Thank you, man.

Here's where i get dumb: what are Trio Gauges?