I've been thinking about using a stick on sound deadener and was wondering (not having seen them in person) whether they were a good way to hold moisture to panels and subsequently rust them out?? has any one had this problem?? Cheers Glenn
Most cars have it from the factory. I used the one from a building supplies store as it was 10 times cheaper than the automotive one. Just needs to be heated up a bit to shape properly.
They all pretty much work the same and work very well . Just start with clean metal that is well sealed with paint or any other choice to cover and seal the metal with and you will be fine . Just read and follow the instructions . Retro Jim
Whatever you do, dont use carpet, I pulled enough carpet out to redo my hall way the other week and discovered that the carpet was holding the floor together
McMaster-Carr has a mastic that works really well....part # 9709T39.....I have used it in several vehicles with super results. 32" X 54" X 1/16 self sticking is $18.95 a sheet.
if you use the stick on deadner, make sure you tape the seams. I did my car with the sticky stuff and got the metal tape at home depot. much cheaper there .
I've used the Hushmat with good results. It's expensive compared to the stuff you can get at Home Depot and glue on.
Check out the 3M sound deandning pads. They work very well and you can cut them into different sizes. They look like the pads used ontodays cars
Daughter helped me brush on 3M sound deadener back in 1964, works good!----Still on today!---Mixes with water.
I used the Dynamat stuff with good results. I got it at Best Buy in the stereo dept. Cut to fit...peel and stick.
I used the 'hushmat' stuff on the floor and trunk floor of my '56 Chevy. I painted over the floor (under the mat) just to be sure. Three years later it's still all good.
Oddly enough I have an OT Mopar wagon that was ordered as sound deadener and insulation DELETE car. It's like riding in a beer can.
I have done both Dynamat and Second Skin, I prefer the Second Skin. The Showdown site used to have all the info but is missing the comparisons now. http://www.secondskinaudio.com/ oh yeah like other have said use over a painted surface and make sure the surface is clean before installing, tape the seam with the metal ducting tape from Home depot. I DO NOT use it on the bottom 3 inches of vertical panels like doors etc..
I used Lizard skin spray on sound deadener and their spray on heat control. Then I put 1/2" foam from dynamat on the floor, firewall and trans tunnel followed by 1/4" bubble pack on roof and door panels with 1/4" foam dynaliner over that. The reason I did all that was the 697 horse blown Clevor under the hood. I had a blown 33 Nash coupe before that with no carpet or sound deadener at all......anything more than 20 minutes in it and you wish you had brought earplugs. Now is the time , early in a build to think about how adding sound deadeners and the accumulated thickness may impact such things as gas pedal mounting, seat base brackets etc.
Thanks fella's, Good info, the reason for the questions, is that I've seen some aircraft with serious corrosion issues due to stick on insulators, they weren't painted underneath. Glenn
I used the grey foam stuff with foil covering from Home Depot. It works great and was only $16 or 15 sq. ft. Just be sure NOT to get the asphalt based stuff. The good stuff is in the heating duct section in a 15' roll.
a few years ago I ordered summit's brand of deadner and low and behold it was Hushmat. I applied por 15 paint for safe measure prior. It made a lot of difference in the car. Even shutting the doors felt more solid. Was much quieter and I was pleased.
I used FatMat on the firewall, floor, back of cab, doors and kick panels. It was well worth the money, the cab seems a lot more solid and road noise was noticably reduced.
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