There are a bunch of ways to do it, the best way is to just mess around with different techniques and to see what you come up with. I made a post on my blog you might dig a little while back: http://watchtheprettylight.tumblr.c...yle-and-profile-walking-the-cup-bob-and-weave
Pretty nice write up. Although I typically push when I MIG, I like going in the direction I'm sending my gas. But Push versus Pull is one of those debates that guys get all worked up about and I'm not gonna go there...
Alright i need some help i have a competition coming up for Tig welding. one of the joints is a 2g butt joint and a 3g butt joint on stainless steel 1/16 thick, for some reason only on those joints i cant get any color it all ways comes out black. I have tried everything i could think of, all kinds of angles, gas lens the only thing that i can think of is gas coverage and i'm not to sure how to solve that if i can only use a #6 cup for the competition. Any one got some tips? for welding in the 2g, 3g positions on thin gage stainless steel?
Offhand I'd say a #6 cup with a 1/16" tungsten should give you plenty of coverage and hold up to the amps needed for 1/16". Twice I've had issues with stainless where the finish just wouldn't come out right, no matter what I did. Both times it turned out the Argon was bad. If you have access to another bottle from another batch of gas, try that. Other than that, still could be too hot, especially if you're not allowed a backing plate. With that material, I'd give each plate a sharp edges, clean the edges on both the front and the back with scotchbrite, butt them together and have fun. Try it flat and see what happens. Chances are on a butt joint that thin, it's not going to color up like a rainbow, but that's not a bad thing. You won't be doing short lengths to stop warping, you'll more than likely be doing it with one or less stop/starts. More heat will get into the material, colors will dull. A "Burnt" look or dull grey with what looks like spiderwebs in it isn't good, but a dull silver isn't bad.
I've been doing mostly sculptures the last couple of months. Not a lot of "real" welding... But yesterday sucked. Took Woodson(the Brown Dog) to a surgeon for a consultation(major surgery on Monday), I felt like shit, I'm trying to get stuff together to head to Iowa for Torque Fest, at one point I spent 30 minutes looking for my keys...then left, only to realize I didn't have my wallet, turned around and spent another 30 minutes looking for that. Just one of those days. So last night when I should have been prepping for the trip, instead I grabbed some scrap and pushed my air cooled torch and Dynasty 200 to the limit on a few passes. Therapy. Colors seem odd because I was using stainless rod. Walking the Cup by Brown Dog Welding, on Flickr Walking the Cup by Brown Dog Welding, on Flickr Walking the Cup by Brown Dog Welding, on Flickr
Those particular passes were done by walking the cup and dipping the rod at the top and the bottom of the weld.
Josh, have you ever thought of weekend seminars/classes. Not beginner stuff but advanced super kick ass welding techniques for hot rodders?.....if you do I'm in.
You know it! A lot of the stuff I've posted in the past was done with a water cooled torch and a Dynasty 350, but this was the 200 with a air cooled torch. Fans kicked on a few times, torch definitely got warm! Yeah...there could be something like that in the future. I'm looking to start teaching this fall at the local CC, and the head of the department there is pretty down for "outside the box" education like that. Would be cool to do a few "one off" classes like that for guys that already have the core knowledge down pat.
Yeah...there could be something like that in the future. I'm looking to start teaching this fall at the local CC, and the head of the department there is pretty down for "outside the box" education like that. Would be cool to do a few "one off" classes like that for guys that already have the core knowledge down pat.[/QUOTE] Justin, Is that at Macomb County CC? I get over there occasionally and would like to meet you.
Those are some awesome looking welds guys, but keep in mind that a "purdy" weld isn't always a strong one. There are plenty of "bird turds" out there that are actually stronger than some guy's "artsy" ones and I betcha they don't even know it.
Oh geez, we're gonna start this again! I am not any where closs to as good a welder as these guys, but do weld. More often then not, if a weld LOOKS sound, it usually is. If a weld looks like crap, it more than likely is. As always, there are exceptions.
Right, because if you KNOW what that bead should look like, why would you EVER run one that looked like shit? Being lucky isn't being a welder....
a bird turd weld will never be as strong as a good clean bead , it will be full of porosity , slag inclusion , and open weak spots , being able to stack chicken poop with chop sticks a welder does not make you , id love to have the time , tallent and machines to be able to weld like a pro ,
Yessir. Doesn't sound like much is happening this summer, but hopefully I'll be up there at least a little bit in the fall.
This is the kind of weld that I would like to know more about. I,m not a pro Tig welder by no means but can handle my own on 16ga. to 22ga. just fine. I would like to know the process of welding 1/4" to 1/4" with this style of a weld. Tungston size, weld rod size, heat setting and etc. would be helpfull. I can weld 1/4" but does not look like the one pictured
I laid down some sweet beads at work today and didn't take a pic. As far as the picture above does anybody know what technique it takes to have the weld net be straight across the top and bottom as opposed to having a slight amount of scallop to it?