2-link suspension length?

I am think about a 2-link rear suspension set-up for my truck. I had it up on the lift and was taking some measurements when I started wondering. I know the longer the better but can it be too long? I have a clear shot all the way to my transmission crossmember and it looks like the custom made mount woulod be ideal for the front two-link mounts. Anybody have a clue? The distance would be around 68" from the rear end to the front mount. I already have some interesting ideas concerning "trailing arm" design and have already heard all the pros and cons to a 2-link style system.

 

front mount even with your front ujoints...........

 

Copy what Chevy did.

 

Not sure how long the Chevy set-up was but I am thinking about coming off the tranny crossmember which is about 10" forward of the front u-joint. Please speak up if there is some reason I shouldn't go this far forward.
I am searching for some I-beam to fab the bars out of but I might have to use rec. tubing. If I use tubing I want to split the side and taper it from 3" at the rear end and taper it down to two at the front mount. I will use Mustang bushings to gain the larger size and allow more flex from one side of the axle to the other.

 

I can tell you what my Chevy Suburban is; it's 55" from center of the axle to the front mount.

 

Thanks 1971! I am at 65" if I go to the trans mount so far I can't see any issues.

 

would arms that far forward of the front U joint create any kind of bind?

 

I am not seeing why it would but I might be missing something. That is kind of the reason for the post. I would love to use stock chevy trailing arms and crossmember but every set in Northern Indiana are rusted to hell!

 

I can't see how going either way from the front U joint is an issue. My Burb isn't in line with the U joint. The driveline slips in and out of the tranny, so it has no effect on the trailing arms. A little longer should be fine.
My avatar has arms shorter than the front U joint, and it also works fine.

 

Here is a picture of a setup on my buddy truck we did. Two link with a cross link. I think his bars are around 40 inches. The main factor you have into play is your pivot point, the height of your front mount. This contributes to wheel travel forward and back in the fenderwell, on air applications. If you need any more info on this you can pm me and I will try and explain it more in detail.

 

Please do not do another cheezy, garbage 2 link set up. (especially if you want to use bags)

Yea, I know... cheap and easy to build.....and the famous "yea, well it works"..

Do it right and and 4 link it......

I guess unless you just don't care about pinion angels, and wheels staying in the center of the wheel openings........

 

If you are set on a 2-link, make it just like the trailing arms found under a mid-60's Chevy pickup. The same design is still used in NASCAR.

If you make you own, make sure you pay attention to the design. The links need to flex, and the leading ends need to be as close together as possible to function without bind.

The farther the pivot of the links are from the front u-joint, in either direction the more travel there will be in the slip-yoke, or slip-splines.

We install these in cars in our shop, all of the time. If you have questions, just post 'em.

 

I guess you have never ran across a well designed 2-link system. I have already done the tri-4 link thing, and no matter what people tell you are are certain design advantages to a 2 link.

 

What he said.........EXACTLY!!


Ray

 

OK I'll speak up, it is called drive shaft or suspension bind.

You want your rear and your driveshaft to swing in the same arc with a 2 link or a trailing arm suspension. Just build ears off of your crossmember.

 

They work great.

 

Here is a great place to buy the front bushings with the tube to weld your trailing arms to.


http://store.gaugemagazine.com/4-li...hing-and-sleeve-3-00-w-x-2-od-x-1-4-wall.aspx

I agree to keeping the front of the truck arms pivioting at the same spot as the drive shaft where it slides into the trans. Also keeping the front pivioting points as close together as possible then use a panhard bar.

 

That is my plan but my crossmember is 10-12" forward of the u-joint. I was running numbers and I believe I-beam or 2x3 channel tapered to 2" at one end will be the best bet. Either set-up will be plenty strong for forward motion and still flex enough to allow for uneven side to side action.

 

Or a Watts link, especially if space in the wheel wells is tight.

 

like this 67-69 C-10 chevy trucks
I paid $100 for the whole thing.

Godspeed
MrC.

 

That's the ticket. Look and learn, folks. Still used in NASCAR today, on the oval AND the twisties, at 200. If your 2-link radically departs from that design, might be time for a do-over.

 

those truck arms are the hot ticket!

 

Yeah, I went the local yard this past weekend and scoped out three trucks, they were all shot to hell. I thought I hit play dirt when one truck had a freshly painted rearend, newer coil springs, and newer shocks. Upon close inspection the beams had dime size holes rusted out in a number of spots! Those things don't survive Indiana salt too well.

 

Jimenez Bros Customs

Here is some pics of 2 link kit with 50 inch trailing arms.

WWW.JIMENEZBROSCUSTOMS.COM

 

This is the rear end with trailing arms from my '46 Olds. Coil overs and panhard rod.

 

I think the links need to point at the output of the trans. The imaginary point of intersection have to meet in the right place.

 

He hit it right on the head. The truck bars want to pivot on the same axis as the drive shaft.

The length of the bars isn't as important as having them pivot with the driveshaft on the same plane and axis.

 

our 2 link is 50" long, we prefer a 2 piece drive shaft. and yes there are advantages to both suspension types 4 link or 2 link. our 2 link gets more than enough articulation with the bags. noise resonance is a big factor compare a car with a 4 link to a 2 link. check it out jimenez bros customs.com

 

Thanks for all the info. Anyone run a 2-link/bag set-up and still pull a trailer?

 

The 1st question, in 18 years of installing bags and building adjustable suspension for a living...nope.

Seen a lot of stuff done to try and correct all the issues of a 2-link set up.......

Very curious... What are all these " certain design advantages to a 2 link " ????? that compensate for all the disadvantages????