Yes, the Explorer engines use the GT40-P heads, which have a different spark plug angle, requiring different headers (not many header options). I'm going to stick with E7TE heads (and do some porting on them next winter). I used this calculator: (bottom version) http://www.westerndiff.com/rpm.html With 225/70r15 (27.4" tall) tires and the .68 OD (I think) of the T5 and 3.70 gears, I'd be running 2160 RPM at 70 mph. That seems about right to me, for a heavier, non-aerodynamic car (not wanting to "lug" the engine at highway speeds) 3.50 gears might be closer to ideal. Also, JoeG, I'm not meaning to hi-jack your thread. Sorry. Hopefully some of this info can apply to you, also. Malcolm
Anything that improves efficiency will improve performance AND gas mileage. A new aluminum intake (not a 30 year-old cast iron one) and a small 4-barrel will help. Headers will help, especially on the highway. A better ignition will help. An electric fan or clutch fan will help. Lower rear gears will help. More transmission gears will help. Better aerodynamics will help. A higher-temp thermostat (200 degrees) will also raise gas mileage, but it will hurt performance a little. Nothing beats fuel injection for economy. Changing the intake and exhaust will probably make the biggest difference on the motor, and replacing the powerglide with an overdrive tranny will make the biggest difference of all. Now it's just a matter of figuring out what you're willing to spend to save money. (Personally, I'd go with the intake, distributor, and transmission, and save the rest of the stuff for later.)
Dump the 2 brl in favor of a small 4 brl under 500 cfm. Go to the 200-4R 4 speed trans., it's 4th gear is actually better than in the 700R4. Do all of the other stuff to ease your pain and suffering (clean out the trunk, get a good tune up, new filters etc, easy on the accelerator, etc.) A manual trans would be better as would FI, but they are both costly conversions that you may never get a positive return on your investment. Gas ain't cheap, but how many gallons @ $5 can you get for the cost of a 5 speed tranny and FI. I would think quite a bunch.
Since you asked, Short block: Dont rebuild unless you have to. Loose motors get better mpg by about 2 mpg. Heads: Junkyard 305 Vortec's off an 80's model T/A or Z-28 Cam: [if they still make thm] Isky mile-a-more, or any [quality] replacement with LESS than 256* advertised durration, and a 112* centerline. Opening the centerline reduces valve overlap, keeping the "bang" and fuel in the cylinder longer, and transfering power to the crank more efficently. Infact, for the lil 283, I'd look for less than 252*. Also, replace the timing chain with a cheap one. "Big" dual rollers or H.D.'s take more power to spin. Intake: A HIGH RISE performance dual plane, like an old fashoned Z-28 manifold. Edelbrock makes a fine piece in the performer line as well. Carb: Q-jet... But only if you can find someone who actually knows how to build one properly.... Should not be too hart to find someone here on the HAMB. Top it off with a big K&N full open element air cleaner Distributor: Look here... http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=63475 Probably the best distributor tech article I'v ever seen on the net. Of course, good plugs, wires, cap & rotor, and a hot coil are a must. Acessories: The late model heads will allow you to bolt up a serpentine belt system... Go for it! also late alternator is a must. Loose the mechanical fan, and go with an electrical unit. Headers: Any header is an improvement over manifolds, but if you actually have a choice, go with the smallest shortest primary tubes you can find. For mufflers, use stock style replacements as a slight ammount of backpressure will improve scavanging, and improve low end torque. Tranny: BIG TRICK here, so pay attention... Find an 80's model oldsmobile V8 in the junkyard, and pull the 200R4, along with the carb TV cable and bracket. It's a dual bolt pattern so it'll bolt to your SBC, TV cable will bolt to your carb. It's the same length and uses the same input yolk as a T-350, and uses the same crossmember bolt holes as a T-400. Good tech on the electronics here: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=109774 Tho your 60 will probably need some mods for the T-400 mounting holes on the frame. Wheels: Either light weight aluminum's to reduce un-sprung weight, or a full set of moon hub caps to increase areodynamics. Tires: 75 or 80 series radials, as narrow as is practical, and overinflate them to 40 psi. Suspension: Short of rebuilding the entire suspension, at least make sure it's aligned perfectly. Steering wheel and suspension slop is bad for MPG. Replace the shocks with Monroe Gas-matic or Koni's. Bounce and/or body roll scrubs power which eats fuel. Gears: Probably not much choice in a '60, but if you do have a choice, 3.40's to 3.50's make it easier to get your car rolling, and the overdrive drops it down to an effective 2.60-70 gear on the highway. Other stuff: Synthetic oil in the engine and rear end, drive it like it was a $million dollar Dusenburg, and drop 5 mph off your speed everywhere you go. Believe me, all this little shit adds up quick. If you really wanted to, you could get 30+ mpg out of ANY V8 powered classic car.
My '57 Chevy has a 235/Powerglide and gets 13mpg. My '60 Fury has a 318/Torqflite and gets 24mpg. That extra gear makes the difference. Your best money spent would be the intake swap and a 3 or 4 speed transmission. My powerglide shifts up at about 15 mph, criminally inefficient.
taller gears, and taller rear tires...but it won't have any nuts off the line. especially with a 283 2 barrel. just putting on taller rear tires would help with your current gear ratio. i say screw em !!!! don't let the man get you down. they are all expecting us to cave in and stop driving our non -fuel efficent stuff. i'm already seeing alot of muscle cars for sale here....fairly cheap. i talked to a guy with a 69 nova (real nice car), big block 4 speed, and he said he was selling it because he could not afford gas to drive it. i think that's a lame excuse for selling a car.
Something is wrong with your car, check the timing or vac advance or exhaust restrictions or something, that thing should be getting 18-20 on the highway. I have a 60 ford full size wagon 429/c6 3.00 gears get 21 on the highway. owned other full size ford with the FE motor stock and modified all were in th 18-20 mpg avg. something is not right!!!
An HEI distributor would be a good start. Get one from about a 1978 car. That will have a vacuum advance on it. You can get one for less than $150 new, no core charge. Aerodynamics are important. That's why Corvettes can get 25 mpg on the highway. If you want a great Quadrajet, call Mountain Man at 479-639-2022. He's in Arkansas and will make you a Qjet you can be proud of. If you want the ultimate, get an EFI system. Only about $2500, right? How long would it take you to save that much gas...
i have a 59 biscayne.18mpg at 60 mph and 15 mpg at 75.with a 3 on the tree.i picked up a 3speed o\d im planning on putting in this summer.on the trip home from getting the car i was within 1 or 2 mpg of my dads newer truck.and it gets as good of milage as my s10.looking for 20 mpg at hwy speeds and then i can justify taking it anywhere.
Welcome to the site, but it's a good idea to check the date on discussions...the original poster hasn't been here for over two years so chances are he won't see your response.
http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticles/corp_0905_corvette_wind_tunnel_testing/viewall.html [Note: It didn't open using Firefox web browser.]
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