Projects Need an opinion on my rear end

It's not every day someone gives you goofballs an opening like that!
I'm converting my old altered into a street car, (see 29 ford project)and I have to ditch the 4:88 spool. I bought two 9" rears for the pumkins. One is a 3:00 31 spline, good, 31 splines is what I need, the other is a 3:25, but it's only 28 spline.
My question is...in a 1500-1800 pound car with a 454, 350 turbo, and 30"tall tire, is that 3:00 going to be too tall? Should I take the 3:25 and convert it to 31 spline? Thanks, Mike

 

Too tall for what? A 454 will pull that ratio easily in a car that weight. That said, if you prefer the 3.25 ratio, run that one. Unless you need maximum strength for racing, I'd think that the 28 spline isn't at a disadvantage in a light street car even with a 454.

Bob

 

Mike, you'll never hurt those 28 spline axles in that light of a car partner. Now depending on your camshaft, you might see it better to go with another converter to help make up for the tall gear, but remember that 454 will pull down low all day. You will be fine, are either of the chunks a Posi?

 

give it a try, it's an easy swop. i think it would work fine.

 

That light with a 454, traction is going to be your limiting factor unless you get some seriously sticky rubber. Run the 3.00, you'll be fine.

 

Personally I wouldn't use either gear.

However seeing that we are only talking .25 between the two available, we really are not talking enough to make a big difference.

Now as far as the spline count goes, that's a different story. If you're not racing it anymore then the 28 spline would hold up. Although the caveat would be two fold. The first, and most obvious, would be that if you went with the 28 spline you will need new axles versus staying with the 31 spline and just changing out the center section. The second thing is that if you ever did decide to go back to the track and run slicks you will more than likely snap a 28 spline axle.

My biggest question I have is WHY do you feel the need to remove the spool?

 

You can move the 3.25:1 gear onto the 31 spline center very easily, would just have to reset your gear mesh and backlash, but either gear will probably be about the same drivability...

 

If I remember correctly the difference is only 2 teeth on just the ring gear.

 

I would just put the 3.00 chunk in it and go. Like was said if you don't like it it's easy to change, plus the 454 will have enough torque to get you moving with it.
I went from 4.11 to 3.25 in my 1840 lb small block car and it still spins the tires just fine if you want to do that too. I think those 3.00's are the way to go.

 

"My biggest question I have is WHY do you feel the need to remove the spool?"

I can't even get the thing to turn to get it in the garage! The last thing I want is to be driving this thing to car shows and tooling the neighborhood bouncing the tires around corners all the time. I don't even want to think about getting it in a parking space.
Add to that 4:88's and the spool would be much less than pleasant.
Both chunks are one leggers, which is fine, I'll hardly ever get above idle as it is.
I was assuming the 3:00's would be fine, but my experience is with heavy,stock bodied cars. I just needed to hear it from someone with more experience here than mine.
Thanks, Mike

 

I don't think those pants make you look fat.

 

Yea I have to agree with you on those 4.88's Mike. They would suck.... GAS!

 

"I don't think those pants make you look fat."
Then how come every time I step on a scale it says, "One at a time, please"?

 

I think you will be fine. My Track T weighs 1750 lbs, has a 289 with a 3.03 first gear 3 speed, and 2.79 in the rear end. It is more than enough gear and will spin the tires easily.

 

Use that big block torque and be happy with the 3.00 gear. As stated the car being so light, it will pull that gear just fine.

 

I'd just go with the 3.00.

 

Thanks, guys. The M/W rear in the car has 31 spline axles, so the 3:00 will be a bolt in.
That rear also has brakes so I can use the backing plates.
Since I got the rear ends "two for the price of one", I'll sell the other one to cover my minimal cost.
When I was fabbing up the trans crossmember, I was thrown off by the offset pinion.
After I did some research, I saw what was happening. I kept going back to what my dad taught me, that as long as all the shaft angles were the same, within reason, driveshaft angle wasn't a problem. So, the engine is centered in the chassis. Well, not really, I missed by 1/8".

 

Mike, doubt that you will be able to tell the difference. My thought is with a 454 race motor, and the price of gas, its not likely to see much street action anyway, unless your father is a rich Texas oilman.

 

Mike, I ran 3.00 gears in my 23 with a 350 Vortec and 30 inch slicks on the back and it was perfect. I could cruise at 70 mph just off of idle and got amazing gas milage (average was 25 mpg on the interstate but I actually got 30 mpg one time) The car would still scoot good because of the hp/weight ratio, so I can only imagine that yours will be even better due to the BBC torque.

Put the 3.00's in it and see. If you don't like it you are only a gasket away from pulling it and going deeper.

Don

 

Started the teardown of the 3:00 rear end today. Geezz!! I had to hammer the drum off!
Apparently, sometime close to when the rear was taken out of the truck, the driver's side wheel cylinder failed, and you can tell from the rust exactly where all the fluid went!
I managed to save the backing plate. Had to destroy the drum just to get it off. The shoes were literally welded to it!
I intend to replace every part in the system with new anyway, so no problem there, but what a beating!
Hope the passenger side is better, but I'm not optimistic. As long as I save the backing plates.
Ran into a small snag, 73-79 Ford p/u bolt pattern is 5x5 1/2, where the bolt pattern on my M/W rear is 5x4 1/2. Took awhile, but found a parts guy my age that knew what was going on and, viola! 68 LTD S/W is 5x41/2 and still the same 11x21/4 brake shoe.
This is the part of being a parts counter man that I used to love, solving problems.
Building a hot rod is getting harder, a lot of these parts are disappearing , and worse yet us old guys with the knowledge are retiring, or dying off. Thanks, Mike

 

Sometimes it's easier to cut the "nails" that hold the shoes to the backing plate to get more wiggle room with the drum. I know you've already got them off but maybe some help in the future.

 

yes those jeans make it look fat! someone had to be the smartass, might as well be me.

 

Cut the nails first. Banged in the wheel studs, Lots of PB Blaster, took the bolts out of the wheel cylinder. Finally broke the rear flange off the drum and got behind the shoes with a pry bar. Had to break the shoes away from the drum with a chisel!
Hope the other side goes easier....
Mixedupmax, I was going to comment, something about plumber's crack, but I'm already the butt of everyone's joke.... Thanks, Mike

 

Lets see a pic, could be your jeans. "Another smart ass"

 

Mike, just do it, you know what your doing. Lippy

 

Dang, Lippy!! It's been a looong time since I got a pat on the back!
After 60 cars, a dozen motorcycles and seven trucks you'd think I'd learn something. But every project makes me scratch my head. I keep being reminded that there is always more to learn.
I'm beginning to think I won't care if I can't title this beast, I'm getting my money's worth in entertainment.

 

Wow, I totally misunderstood the headline on this post!

 

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Everybody tells me the pitting on the "shoe spreader" and the emergency brake lever won't be a problem as long as I clean them really well and paint them so they won't keep rusting. I think I may spend the afternoon at the local "pick-n-pull looking for good ones. I can get everything else at the local NAPA.

 

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Now comes the hurdle of finding out the flange in the center of the M/W axle is about twice the size of the hole in the stock Ford brake drum!
I may go to the machinist today and see how hard it would be to have that flange cut down to match the stock drum.
My dad was a prototype tool maker. Take your drawing, and he would make the first one.
He was always convinced that "there is always a way" to make things fit together.
Thanks, Mike

 

there isnt much differance between the to gear ratios.

I use the caclulator at www.randysringandpinion.com
you can see the rpms differance very easy and figure out what might work better with just a few clicks, ajust for trans, engine, tire size and gearing as well.

Godspeed
MrC.