ok i have been restoring my car lately out side on my lawn and i have welded in al new patch panels and done what needs to be welded , then i intend to sandblast the whole thing get the new sheet metal to be more adhesive to the paint . so here is the advice i need i intend to brush paint it then put in some body filler just as little as possible have been working owertime with my hammer and dolly fixing all dents possible . but then i intend to prime it again after i have put the filler on and sand it down then it should be ok to spray paint it the second primecoating please pleas answer me since i am getting now help from around here in iceland
Just sanding with a good 80 grit paper will get you the adhesion you are looking for. Brush painting is not necessarily a great way to apply a urethane primer, but it will get something on there to prevent rust. I have found that filler sticks best to bare metal, so you might have to sand the primer off whereever you want to fill, and you will want to protect the filler from moisture, as even when it is cured, the filler will absorb and hold moisture. I would say, without seeing what you have to work with, prime it, and work some more with the hammer and dolly. The less filler, the better. Most fillers say 1/4" thickness or less...most guys here think 1/16" is too much.
ok i do not fully trust the old aircompressor i have and that is the reason i was thinking about brush painting the urethan primer on what are the negatives off brush painting urethan primer besides the risk of brush marks showing
Primer with using a roller. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=689823&highlight=primer+with+roller
Don't put polyurethane primer over bare metal. Use an epoxy primer,that will seal off the metal and give you a great foundation for polyester fillers,as in "bondo" or a featherfill or slicksand "spray" filler. Brushing or rolling Epoxy primer will work since yopu will need to scuff the areas before a polyester goes on it anyways. Hope this helps
Yep, and if you use a roller with a smooth foam roll on it you will have less sanding to do. Not one of the big wall ones but a 4 to six inch one. The brush works but just means more sanding to get it smooth.
chevyshortfleet why not use the polyurethan primer . it is two part primer so it is strong at least i am told and i was told it does not breath so it closes the metal comepletely . and besides i already have bought this primer and simply cannot afford to buy a new type of a primer so is the polyurethan a absolutly no
Polyurethane is a top coat material. typically it does not have any adhesion qualities to bare metal. It wont "bite in" so to speak. Check the tech sheet on the particular product you are using, I would be very surprised if they recommend application on to bare metal. Now if there is confusion and you mean polyester primer,that would be a different thing. Polyesters do stick to metal,as in bodyfiller or slicksand/featherfill. It is still recommended to epoxy prime "large" bare metal areas.
Sanded then sprayed with etching primer. Then body work then prime. After this I got a brush and went to town. I like the look and the results.
That picture is NOT a guy brush-painting his car. It IS a picture of a guy trying to stop his cloth top from leaking.
it is recomended on bare metal aluminium and fiberglas it is hempel light primer , i did a realy smart thing i read the instructions and yes this is something that bites it self stuck to bare metal this product is used on ships below and above shea level , i will give it a try the results can never be worse than bad . and thank you so much for all you replies around here there are plenty of guys who are restoring cars and stuff but they seem to lack the words to explain things around paint for example i often just get becaus i say so answers . but feel free to exspress your adwice i am restoring my first car it is an cold war era soviet light truck called gaz 69 http://www.flickr.com/photos/64192360@N07/ i intend to restore many more cars both american and european
called the paintshop to day and it admited the store clerk did just tell me bull , but the primer is epoxy and it is good so on with the restoration .
I believe you have the answers you need. Different product brands than we have in North America, but sounds like you read the tech sheet and it will work for you. Good luck and have fun with your project.
http://www.retronaut.co/2011/06/how-to-paint-your-automobile-in-1922/ This is as good as any for a first post.
True, great little book! In another post relating to paint see http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=690595
The Jalopy Journal
