There is a broken bolt in my enigine block. It is a 302 it broke off flush and its for the water pump. Does anyone know how to get it out?
Weld a washer to it then weld a nut to the washer. Worked for me on a water pump bolt on my 351w and several exhaust bolts on my buick 322. Ryland
center punch a dimple in the center of the broken bolt. Then start drilling with a small bit. keep drilling larger and larger until you can get a decent size easy out to remove the broken bolt. if it is still stck, keep drilling bigger until you have almost gotten to the blocks threads. Take punch and work out the remaining left over bolt. PATIENCE PATIENCE PATIENCE ...it will come out with no harme to your block!
+2 what geo said. Easyouts are the greatest invention to ever grace my toolbox. I have a bad habit of tightenin shit just a little more... :O
Two things to remember ... If you intend to drill it out, be very careful that you don't break the drill bit off in the bolt (don't ask me why I mention this) ... the other is ... it actually IS possible to break off an easy-out in the bolt, especially the small diameter bolts (again, please don't ask me how I know this). If welding is not an option, you might be stuck drilling so keep these in mind. Best of luck
I'm more a fan of the "weld a nut to it" crowd. EZ-OUTs work OK if the bolt is just broken off and not stuck or rusted. If it is stuck or rusted, then the welding trick is the shit. The heat from the weld expands the bolt a bit, and then when it cools it shrinks. That movement really helps to break free the bond between the bolt and the threaded hole in the engine. An EZ-OUT actually tries to expand the bolt when you put torque on it, and that does no good when the bolt is stuck for one reason or another.
I've never had a so-called easy-out NOT break off. I take a small cold chisel that's about the same width as the RADIUS of the bolt (1/4" usually) and hit it straight in with a hammer enough to make a slot of sorts in it. Then I hit it with the chisel angled the direction so it's TIGHTENING the broken stud. This will loosen all the rust and crud that's holding it in the threads After a few taps on the bolt you will see it moved some. STOP Then reverse angle and tap on it in the direction to unscrew the broken stud. The only times I've had this method fail is on studs that someone drilled for an easy out and didn't leave enough to reach with the chisel.
best trick after the welding a nut to it is drill it deep and hammer a torx socket into the hole then use ratchet to unscrew it. if torx bit breaks hammer another one in (reason you drilled it deep)
Is the timing chain cover still attached to the motor,if it is the bolt is froze up in the timing chain cover and might be easier to remove the cover and then you can get pliers on whats left and will probably come right out. Those long bolts will react to the aluminum and freeze up in the cover causing the head to break off,you should be able to pry the cover off over the bolt and while its apart install a fresh timing chain and put grease or anti seize on the bolts when putting back togather.
Another welding method that works wonders is to use 7014 (farmers rod). Just tap the broken fastener with the rod a couple of times then hit the build up with a hammer. repeat enough times until you can get a pair of vice grips on the built up section. Then just turn out the offending bolt with the vice grips. Between the heat cycles and the tapping there isn't a bolt yet that I havn't been able to remove. Even worked on a broken harmonic balancer bolt in a crankshaft.
You beat me to it, this is a common ford issue, and don't feel like you are doing unnecessary work as I have had several fords that once the waterpump was changed the timing cover starts to leak at the block because you changed the pressure on it when the waterpump bolts were backed out. If you have to fix the bolt anyways it is a good chance to get a new timing cover gasket and timing set.And once that's done you can bet the thermostat housing is going to leak
I worked in a Ford dealership and I was the designated broken bolt remover. As has been said, the steel bolt goes through the aluminum timing cover and it corrodes to the bolt to the cover. Sometimes a little heat on the aluminum cover will loosen it up but BE VERY CAREFUL HEATING ALUMINUM. It's difficult to tell when it's going to melt. Sometimes you have to drill them out. I have a set of center punches that look like a drift punch with point in the center. They come in handy if the bolt breaks deeper in the hole. I like to use a left hand drill bit slightly larger than the bolt and it's very important to keep it straight. Often, the bolt will come out once the drill gets past the corrosion. I check to make certain that I don't drill past the block. I have some longer drills to go in that deep. If it hasn't come out when I get close to the block, I use a smaller drill and a long easy out. Don't put a lot of pressure on an easy out, if you break it, it is harder than a high speed steel dill bit. Removing the timing cover is another way but sometimes the bolt will be stuck in the cover and you have to drill it out to get the cover off. It's a good idea to pull the timing cover off and change gaskets and timing chain assembly. You have to take everything off the front of the motor to change the water pump and you don't want to do it again. I blame Ford because they use a non plated bolt in an aluminum cover with no antiseize compound. I used plated bolts and plenty of antiseize compound to re-install.
What he said^^^^^I have to pull the timing cover on many 90" s and up 302's. You can buy the replacement water pump bolts at NAPA. That tells you how common it is.
another cool trick is if you have a bit of bolt sticking out beyond the hole, just grind a slot into it and use a regular ol' flatblade screwdriver.
Do what 3speed and others said: weld a washer + nut to it. Forget the EZ-out, as you'll end up doing the welding trick anyway.
If you have machine shop skills, make up a guide block so the drill runs true and square to the surface. Use another handy hole close by to anchor it. I've made them from aluminum and steel.. whatever is around and always works. Bob
I'd start with drilling a hole dead center and driving an allen wrench into it myself, and go from there, you can try and easy out or drilling the whole thing out afterwords
If its one of the long bolts just pull the damn cover, once you get it off you can usually pull the remainder of the bolt with your fingers. Just be careful not to pry to hard on the cover and end up cracking it.
i add another to the weld washer nut trick. while it is hot hit it with some bee's wax, it'll wick into the hole and help loosen the bolt later jim
Now that I think about it I when I did broke the water pump bolt on my 351w I did pull the timing cover and I'm pretty sure I just used vice grips on it. Try spraying it with some PB blaster, lightly tapping it with a hammer (like you would a nail) then use vice grips to start it turning. If it breaks again then use the washer and nut method. Ryland
X2. I'm not a big fan w/easy outs unless its a big bolt. One trick I use, providing you can get to it is heating the bolt and spraying some type of penetrating oil on it a few times. Then try to back the bolt out with some type of punch. Heating the bolt then spraying it works like soldering copper plumbing. The heat draws the oil into the thread area to help loosen its grip.
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