Grinding an axle for clearance?

On a previous thread I started about 48-52 truck spindles, I mentioned that I had some clearance issues with my current setup.

I'm using a deeply dropped 36 ford axle, with truck spindles and magnum deep drop bolt on steering arms.

I got a problem though. The c shaped hoops on the top of the bolt on arms are rubbing the bottom side of the axle, where its dropped.

The arms are also rubbing my kingpin bearings as I approach my steering stops.


My plan was to just space out the steering arm off the spindle...hanlding my bearing rub issue. But this makes my axle rub issue worse.

I thought I would just grind out a groove in the axle to allow that arm to move freely. But I'm getting second thoughts as I get ready to do this.

Can grinding this weaken my axle to the point that it could comprimise safety?

Is this a good idea to grind out a groove in my axle?

Another option I considered was filling my axle ends to balance out grinding a groove in them.

I don't particularly like the filled look, so I also considered just filling them on just the back sides of the axle.

What are your thoughts guys?

I don't want to fuck my axle up

 

Pics, maybe you could fab some steering arms that will clear?

 

Heat and bend, to create clearance.

 

The flat plate style would most likely work, but I still need to get my tierod way down under my wishbones.

I've only seen flat plate arms as straight, undropped units.

Does anybody make a deep dropped arm from plate?

Would it be strong enough with a big deep drop if I made them myself?

 

Heat and bend the aftermarket steering arms? I donno if I wanna do that?

 

almost started working on mine today...

 

Can you fab your own? People make their own upper side steering hoops, maybe you could design and give the specs for them to someone to fab?

 

LOL...almost is the key word

Garrett, do you think grinding that axle will weaken it? You've seen it

 

Yeah I could make them I guess, just don't want to re-invent the wheel if I don't have to.

 

you need minor clearance by the looks of it, as long as theres no major binding or anything removing alittle meat for paint shouldn t hurt i would think.

 

oh yes for got about the bearing issue.. small shims and alittle more grinding?

 

It's minor when stationary, but the axle will twist and flex a bit when I'm driving. I want to have close to 1/4" clearance just in case...I'd hate for those arms to bite up on the axle when I'm pushing through a turn.

 

Yeah, more grinding.

I just need somebody who's done it to tell me that its OK, before I hack into it.

 

I may be out of line here but i think un-filled axle ends look better. I liken grinding the axle to cutting fender lips so the tires don't rub, the fenders are not the problem the tires/wheel offset are. I wouldn't grind the axle i would make the steering arms clear...jmo.

 

like stated before heat and bend em. less work than a messed up axle

 

You don't think heating and bending those aftermarket arms is risky?

If I was to do that, I'd be trusting them to be a good quality forging....might be a stretch to put that trust in my steering.

I donno?

 

I hear ya man, I don't want to grind it either. But it'd be an easy fix and just a minor clearance grinding.... I'm talking about a 1/4" round groove, blended off on both ends. I don't think that'd be all that noticeable.

What I really need to know is...will grinding a groove like that weaken my axle?

 

If that is all you need for clearance than go for it. I grind/polish axles all the time, (see album) i remove the forging seams and make them smooth. If you were to take some from both the axle and the arms i would think you would be good to go...again pics would be good here

 

How about the Chassis Eng bolt on arms, they should have more axle clearance the Magnum arms.

 

There's my boy Rich! I'm still on a high from the brake drum solution you provided

I'll google them up.

 

Nice work BTW harv

 

i heated and bent mine on my 31 and my 49 heated and bent spindle arms also. let arm cool on its own . speedway also sells flat steering arm that goes on spindle.goes up 1 inch to use bolt and nut through spindle instead of screwing into tubular upper control arm . i think u might have to use himejoints on steering arm and drill arm comming from steering box if u are running ends like a tie rod. i think u are having the same prob i have had . i went all himejoints on everything. hope info helps.
.

 

I've got another axle here, model A with 4" overall drop...still haven't ruled out using that one if the clearances are better.

I'll post some pics and update soon

 

The model A axle beam is almost square to the kingpin boss where it is attached. The 33-36 axle comes down at an angle from the kingpin boss and this is where your interferance is. The model A axle swap may be your solution.

Thanks.

 

I do like that chassis engineering steering arm too. hmmmmm.

I can't remember if the 36 axle takes the same width spring as the model A?

I only have the one spring here now that I bought from posies for the 36

 

heated mine on 31 and 49. use arm916-32019 speedway plain arm 29.99 chrome arm 69.99. you have to use himejoints instead of tapered tierod end.i would just modify drag link.flat upper steering arm works great .2 himejoints 2 weld in bungs and a piece of thick wall pipe, straight drill pitman arm

 

i hope im not steering u wrong,ha haa .hope info helps .if this is for parrallel leaf set up it should.i have only used hoop arm on 52 chevy with 4inch drop axle.if its the same arm it pokes out from spindle about 5 plus inches . have to work on bolt holes on flat arm 3 1/8 chevy ford is 3 3/8 arm has lot of meat to slot holes at spindle mount.

 

Same spring perch width A to '36.

The A will be 2-1/4" thick at the perch bolt while the '32-'36 axles are 2" thick, your 'bones probably won't fit the the A axle.

Actually a dropped A and a dropped '36 should be about the same shape, unless the '36 you have was dropped too close to the kingpin boss.

The clearance problems you are having almost sound like the problems encountered with a dropped '37-'41 axle.

 

my first time on hamb friend told me about it. pretty cool,

 

are they forged? just heat them up bend them and let them cool of slowly. or use/get stock ones and do it. doesnt sound like you need to move them much.