TIG Question: Sharpening Tungsten?

i weld in my garage at home occasionally, my TIG is Miller Diversion. a friend loaned me a pretty fancy tungsten sharpener that puts a perfect tip on it and it makes a nice difference. BUT... at $300 for the sharpener, I'm wondering if anyone here has some tips on how to get a nice tip on the tungsten without a fancy sharpener, or is $300 just the way it goes?

gotta give his back soon....

 

I use a pedestal grinder and a cordless drill on a wheel for grinding tungsten only.

 

Very fine belt sander used for tungsten only. Hold it in the direction the belt turns, not horizontal to it. Very slowly turn it to get a nice point

 

We used to a bench grinder, and point the tungsten towards the top of the wheel and twist, that way the grinding marks are parallel with the tungsten, if that makes sense?

Kinda like this.... O\ (side view)

 

Cordless drill and a 4" grinder works great.

 

Bench grinder, turn it in your hand. Rinse and repeat. if the tungston get's hot dip it in water. I do this on a daily basis nothing fancy required!

 

As you can see there are lots of different ways to sharpen your tungsten. From cheap to expensive and while all the ways mentioned here will work, some will work better than others.

The best way by far is a dedicated Tungsten grinder with a diamond wheel. They give you a smooth and precice point which will make your arc more controlable.

A name that comes to mind is the Piranha.
http://www.diamondground.com/

Been a TIG pressure welder for 40 years now and the pro's use a diamond wheel on the dedicated machine.

 

I also use a belt sander with a fine grit...works fine for me

 

bench grinder......

 

belt sander, fine grit like others have said. Doing sanitary welding of winery process pipe as we speak. One word of caution when using a belt sander and grinding to a point, always grind the point in the direction of belt travel. As the belt wears it will grab the point of the tungsten, break it off about an 1 1/2" long and shove it into your hand and wont stop until it hits bone. Not too pleasant!!

 

http://www.alexgs.com/product/anchor-brand-chem-sharp-jar.html
I have used this stuff in the past & it works pretty good, but I also use a bench grinder with a dedicated wheel & I found that by putting the tungsten in a 1/4" drill chuck , I get much better conrol & no hot fingers...also as mentioned above , you want the grinding lines to go down the tung , not around it...Shawn

 

Exactly!

 

I use the disc sander … iv recently started polishing it after on the wire wheel

 

Here are three very good and full of great info, for tig welding.

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/tech_tips/TIG_tips/hints_tips.html

http://dynaflux.thomasnet-navigator.com/category/chemical-tungsten-sharpening-products

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/articles/index.php?page=articles13.html


.

 

Whatever you use make sure it is tungsten only.
A dedicated wheel is my choice. Makes a nice grinding
groove after a while.

 

A tungten dedicated stone only stays that way if you break off contaminant before the tungsten touches the wheel.

 

As others have stated, a belt or disc sander that is ONLY used for sharpening tungsten is a good idea. I use a disc sander and a cordless drill, with them both spinning, doing it this way keeps a nice cone shape and the grindig lines will be in a spiral.

 

By dedicatated wheel you should all mean aluminium carbide (light green looking wheel) your normal mild steel wheel will contaminate the tungsten. I only ever use a grinder and I sharpen as described above by holding the electrode parallel with the wheel. I was also taught that you should point the electrode towards the top of the wheel to push the contaminants away from the pont.

That was the way I was taught when I was learning my trade and I have never had a problem.

 

Thx guys. Nice tip to put it in cordless.

 

Second the belt sander, normally do it by hand as its less stuffing around (just try not wreck your good welding gloves), the cordless does work better if you have the patience though

 

I use powdered stuff that my welding supplier turned me onto. It is a white, coarse poweder in a small jar. You extend the tungsten 2 inches out of the cap, short it to ground until it is red hot and dip the tip in the powder. It actually seems to get hotter while in the poweder, and after several seconds, a perfect point, with no grinder marks in it at all. It adds the benefit of not having to wait for the tungsten to cool prior to grinding. If you happen to contaminate the tungsten...

 

I have shaprened many a tungstens in my welding career. Recently my shop got a sharpener with a vacum hooked to it so that it will capture the dust. I have know that tungstens are radioative by the cute little stickers on the box. So I guess we are sucking up the dust when we grind on them the old fashoned way. If we do any tig welding out of the shop we prepare a dozen or so tungstens for the day before we leave in the morning.

 

Harv,
the disc will work but the tungsten need to be 90 degrees to where it is in your photo. i.e. the grinding action needs to be along the tungsten, not across it as pointed out by numerous other posters. The grinding lines need to run the length of the tungsten.

Roo

 

Holding the tungsten with a pin vise will work with the belt sander.

 

I use an old fashion drafting lead holder,mechanical drafting pencil, to hold the tungsten and then use my Apex grinder to sharpen. Drafting lead is about .08 inch dia so 3/32 tungsten fits well, it is quick and saves the fingers.

Rex

 

i never thought of useing a drill ill try it i use my belt sander with fine grit works good

 

What He Said! I was a tig welder for over 30 years

 

Damn, either I'm a caveman or there's a bunch of anal retentive pussys here.
Don't mean to be offensive, but if the shoe fits.............just sayin.
I slap a fresh flap disc on a 4 1/2" angle grinder, switch the power on, hold the grinder down with my knee or foot, and hold the tungsten in my hand. If it gets too hot to hold bare handed your pushing too hard.
Been doing that way for over 40 years.

 

Thanks Chubby, for my home / hot rodding tigging, I use the side edge of my normal every day grinding wheel -right by the paper, I have had no problems. Food grade says deicaited grinding wheels, cutting wheels, and sharpening wheels, all stainless steel ,ONLY.

 

Bench grinder, side of the wheel. Nothing else touches the sides of the wheel so its clean.