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Help with identifying steering box!!!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Sailor Mike, Mar 23, 2012.

  1. Sailor Mike
    Joined: Oct 19, 2011
    Posts: 24

    Sailor Mike
    Member
    from Indiana

    Hey Guys, new to the H.A.M.B. first real post other than the intro.

    I need some help with identifying my steering box on my roadster!!!

    I was out driving my car today and noticed the steering was slipping (wold start to turn steering wheel but wheels wouldn't turn) so i checked everything out and it looks like the spline shaft and pitman arm started stripping so I'm trying my best to identify it so I can replace it without having to do new brackets for a different box but haven't had any luck.

    Serial number on the side is C1UR 3550 B haven't found anything that matches it though. The pitman arm has the ford logo on it.

    Not really trying to replace with a different kind of box, would like to find one like it that I could just bolt in place.

    Other questions, is it possible to or stupid to just weld the pitman arm to the gear spline...? Or drill a hole sideways through it that i could stick a bolt through?

    Sorry about the bad pics, kinda dark and had to take the picture through the exhaust headers!

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
     

    Attached Files:

  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,935

    squirrel
    Member

    C1Ux means 1961 econoline in fordspeak, doesn't it?
     
  3. Yuuuuup!^^^^^

    Totally digging the roadster!
     
  4. Sailor Mike
    Joined: Oct 19, 2011
    Posts: 24

    Sailor Mike
    Member
    from Indiana

    Thanks guys, looks like it's from a 61-67 econoline. Too bad that parts been discontinued, think I'm going to pull it off today and drill a hole straight through it and put a grade 8 bolt in it.

    We'll see, thanks again!
     

  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,935

    squirrel
    Member

    You might be able to find a good used one...you need to be careful with steering parts so you don't weaken them.
     
  6. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,213

    sunbeam
    Member

    I'd look for a D style U joint and grind a flat spot on the shaft
     
  7. butch27
    Joined: Dec 10, 2004
    Posts: 2,847

    butch27
    Member

    Hey: I have one here that I was going to use on my "T" . P.M. me . They are good boxes
     
  8. The way it's mounted to frame looks kind of scary to me.
     
  9. F-6Garagerat
    Joined: Apr 12, 2008
    Posts: 2,652

    F-6Garagerat
    Member

    For the pitman arm?
     
  10. 40FordGuy
    Joined: Mar 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,907

    40FordGuy
    Member

    VooDoo,....I agree....it appears that one mounting "ear" has no bolt thru it ? I'd go for a good replacement box...there is no shortage of easily repaired, modern steering gear out there.......Worth the $$ and time......

    4TTRUK
     
  11. VooDoo,....I agree....it appears that one mounting "ear" has no bolt thru it ? I'd go for a good replacement box...there is no shortage of easily repaired, modern steering gear out there.......Worth the $$ and time......

    And one of the other holes in the mount is slotted. Rebuilt econoline boxes are available.
     
  12. metalman
    Joined: Dec 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,297

    metalman
    Member

    Dumb questain but have you pulled the pitman arm and checked the splines? They might just be stripped on the pitman and the box is ok. Even dumber questain, is that cross bolt tight? If it's loose the splines don't seat tightly, of course if it was loose letting the splines slip it might be too late, splines might already be toast.
    While your there I'd agree, I'd think hard about a better mounting bracket, one that grabs all 3 bolts and I'd want to see some type of side gusset.
     
  13. x2! Have a helper sit in the driver's seat while you stand beside it and watch your steering box. Have your helper turn it lock-to-lock a time or two, and I guarantee you that you will see that box moving some. If it's moving, it's going to cause the mounting plate and/or bolts to fail eventually, simple metal fatigue. Fix it right, with a sturdy mounting bracket designed to catch that top mounting ear that currently doesn't have a bolt. While you're at it, replace all mounting bolts with new Grade 8 stuff since metal fatigue has been working on the existing bolts ever since the car was built this way. Please don't drive it until you fix it right, we don't want to lose anybody, and we don't want to read about any more hot rod wrecks!:eek:
     
  14. Sailor Mike
    Joined: Oct 19, 2011
    Posts: 24

    Sailor Mike
    Member
    from Indiana

    Thanks for the replies guys.

    The pics are kinda crappy but the mount for the box is welded directly to the frame and is gusetted in the front. It utilyzes 2 of the 3 dog ears and is extremely solid, couldn't get movement even if i wanted to.

    Took it off today and drilled and stuck a grade 8 bolt through it and it's solid as a rock, and works pretty well!

    Future plans for a reversed corvair box.

    Thanks again, and sorry about the crappy spelling!
     
  15. Sailor Mike
    Joined: Oct 19, 2011
    Posts: 24

    Sailor Mike
    Member
    from Indiana

    Also switched out existing bolts for new grade 8.
     

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