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283 cam help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 48chrysler, Mar 18, 2012.

  1. 48chrysler
    Joined: Feb 28, 2009
    Posts: 323

    48chrysler
    Member
    from Indiana

    Well last sunday I lost a lifter I'm not getting any oil on the rocker arm. So I have decided while doing the lifters I might as well do a cam seeing as it is a stock 64 283. What is my best choice I want a little lope but not too much. This is my first major motor work. I'm going to have help so I'll be alright. If I can find a good deal I wouldn't mind buying some heads. Who has the best deals??? I have a Th350 trans, 3.0 gear and an edelbrock performer intake with a 650 carb

    what do you guys recommend.

    Thanks in advance
     
  2. just had a 283 built for my 35 Ford, you will get lots of information regarding this topic.. I went with a old school cam Duntov 30/30 and solid lifters ... But thats what I wanted... Check my thread.... lots of great info.. cheers
     
  3. 48chrysler
    Joined: Feb 28, 2009
    Posts: 323

    48chrysler
    Member
    from Indiana

    I was reading it earlier today. I put a ton of miles on the coupe roughly 20,000 last year since June. And I'm afraid of valve lash and the supposed maintnance of solid lifters. Sweet Ride by the way. I would really like hyd lifters.
     
  4. studebaker46
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 715

    studebaker46
    Member

    checkout thespecs on a 350hp/327 ithink if memory serves me it was called an L79 eng. mild lope good low end torqe you might need a little more gears. anotherthing to check if you lost oil to a rocker arm is your cam bearings dont just throw a cam in and not find the problem just my $.02 tom
     

  5. racer32
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 745

    racer32
    Member

    Ask about a cam for a 283 and you'll have a crap-ton of folks recommending the Duntov 30/30 and a bunch of other cams with more lift/duration than you need. Your 283 is gonna run like crap if you overcam it. Buy this one and you'll be happy with the results: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-1102/ .

    Unless you've got a light car, a 4-speed, STEEP rear gear, lots of compression, and are willing to rev the snot out of it, you won't benefit from anything more than the cam above. In a 350 it's a mild RV-type cam, but in a 283 it should get you the performance you're looking for without killing what little torque your 283 is going to make.

    Before you stab a new cam in there, figure out WHY you're not getting oil to the top-end. Might be a good excuse to pull the motor and clean it up, re-ring, and replace the bearings. You might consider switching to a smaller carb, too.
     
  6. Sheep Dip
    Joined: Dec 29, 2010
    Posts: 1,572

    Sheep Dip
    Member
    from Central Ca

    X2 what he say's ^
     
  7. Dave B.
    Joined: Oct 1, 2009
    Posts: 225

    Dave B.
    Member

    I've been running the "L79" 327/350 cam in a 283/4-speed car for several years. I really like it. BTW, I'm using some '60s heads with 1.94 intakes. The cam sounds great and pulls like a champ from 3000 RPM up.

    I have to agree on the carb recommendation - even a vacuum secondary 600 cfm borders on being too much carb for a street 283 (even though that's what I'm running...). The 650 is just plain overkill, especially if it's a double-pumper. (That's assuming it's a Holley - a 650 Edelbrock might be OK - as I remember, those have smaller primary venturis and a larger secondaries.)
     
  8. racer32
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 745

    racer32
    Member

    Dave B. I'm interested in your combo. What kind of car? Are the heads double humps or power-packs with the larger valves added? Rear gear ratio? Compression? What intake?
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2012
  9. nexxussian
    Joined: Mar 14, 2007
    Posts: 3,240

    nexxussian
    Member

    While I would love a Duntov cammed 283 (or a copy of a Potvin Eliminator grind) in a 4 speed equipped bucket or track roadster (fairweather toy), what everybody is saying is spot on, way to much for a "real" car.

    I have seen a listing for a 327/325 cam, 350 (or the fuelie 360 HP) would be too hot, but the 325 might be reasonable, the 300 isn't likely to have as much bark as you are looking for.

    Being a copy of a factory grind it isn't likely to be particularly expensive either.

    Of course in my minds eye, my fairweahter driver would have an aluminum wheel, and an old twin deuce manifold of some kind (Thickstun maybe, with Rochesters perhaps :D ).
     
  10. racer32
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 745

    racer32
    Member

    Pretty sure the 327/325hp and the 327/350hp motors both used the L79 (#3863151) cam. The 327/300hp cam is milder than the Summit cam.
     
  11. 39delux
    Joined: Nov 1, 2002
    Posts: 332

    39delux
    Member

    We ran a lot of L79 cams in 283s back in the day. They do perform well but they don't really come on until 3000 rpm. They aren't as sluggish below that mark as the 097 Dyntov used from '57 to '63 or the 30-30 that took it's place in '64. The above mentioned cam from Summit would be a better choice with a stock converter and a 3.0 gear. If you had a 700R4 with it's lower 1st gear and around a 3.5 rear gear the L79 would be a good choice. With your coupe I don't think that weight is a problem.

    Many seem to be going for 305 heads on the 283 builds these days. The chambers are smaller which will bump the compression and the valves and ports are sized just about right for a 283. You wouldn't want these heads on a 350 though. I have run double hump 1.94 intake heads on a 283 before and liked them. One thing to watch is that with the 3 7/8 bore the intake valve is very close to the cylinder wall when open and you get some shrouding. I think that you might gain more with increased valve lift on the cam or by using 1.6 rockers than with the slightly bigger intake valve. Keep in mind that the exhaust side is where the small block head needs the most help anyway.

    I also think that you may be over carbed some but since you already have it I'd put it on with the 305 heads and the Summit cam and see how it performs. I ran a big mouth Daytona Series AFB of 625 cfm on my '56 Bel Air with a Duntov 097 solid cam, mildly ported Power Pak heads, Headman old style tri-y headers, 3 speed, 3.70 gears with a Twin Pull and Mickey Thompson cheater slicks. I could take the new '66 GTOs through the quarter and that really pissed them off.
     
  12. 48chrysler
    Joined: Feb 28, 2009
    Posts: 323

    48chrysler
    Member
    from Indiana

    I'm going to go with the summit cam mentioned above thank you guys for all the info. 305 heads is a cool, cheaper idea thanks for the info. I'll let you guys know how I like it.
     
  13. racer32
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 745

    racer32
    Member

    FWIW, If you're gonna run a 283 it OUGHT to have heads without bolt holes. Performance-wise, the 305 heads are gonna be better than the old 1.72" valved 283 heads. You might consider keeping your heads (especially if they're power packs) and putting the bigger 305 (1.84) intake valves in them. With a little mild port work and the bigger valves, your 283 will breathe better AND still look like a 283.
     
  14. Roadsterpu
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 895

    Roadsterpu
    Member

    I am in nearly the same boat as you. I am in the process of building a new motor for my roadster. The only difference is I am running a 350. I just ordered a 224'@0.50 on a 108 LSA. Keep in miind that you have a fairly large tire (judging from your avatar), automatic (assuming stock converter) and fairly high gear. You will want your motor to produce a lot of power down low. Make sure you pick a cam that makes poiwer in the normal RPM range you cruise in.
     
  15. sled56
    Joined: Mar 9, 2005
    Posts: 67

    sled56
    Member

    I have just run in my 283, power pack heads, 030 pistons, balanced, edelbrock torquer, 600 holley.TH350 1800 convertor, 9" with 3.0 gears. I used a GM 300 HP hydraulic cam, was used in the factory corvettes. Plenty of torque, chirps the tyres in 2nd and top, no hastles with valve train etc. Would reccomend it.
     
    fattboyzz likes this.
  16. 39delux
    Joined: Nov 1, 2002
    Posts: 332

    39delux
    Member

    Well said. I also prefer my old small blocks (265/283) to look like old small blocks. Modified Power Pak heads are a good choice. Manley may list a necked down above the valve head Street Flow valve for these that would also make a big difference. You can also use valve cover adapters to use perimeter bolt valve covers on newer center bolt heads. They could be modified to even use stagger bolt valve covers. Just don't be tempted to use any new or old head with 2.02 intakes. That requires a relief being ground in the top of the cylinder bore for valve head clearance on a 3 7/8 bore. The excessive shrouding offsets the benefit of the big valves in this case.

    What intake manifold are you using?

    Tom
     
  17. Someone mentioned the L-79 cam which is my go to cam for most street small blocks but in a 283 you may be happier with the 300 horse cam I don't recall the number off the top of my head.

    Someone also mentioned that 3K is the starting point for the L-79 and they are spot on. they are advertised to pull well below that but they don't really start to come alive until about 3K.
     
  18. racer32
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 745

    racer32
    Member

    The 327/300hp cam was the "929" (#3896929) grind. This same cam was used in most every base-model SBC. It's a bit on the wimpy side..the lowly 210hp 2-barrel 327 and the 200hp 307 used the 929 cam.

    Lift (in/ex) .390/.410
    Adv. Duration 260/271
    Duration @ .050 194/202
    Int. Centerline 108
    LSA 112
     
  19. racer32
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 745

    racer32
    Member

    Summit 1102:

    <TABLE class=overvw><TBODY><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>204</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>214</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Duration at 050 inch Lift</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>204 int./214 exh.</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Advertised Intake Duration</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>262</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Advertised Exhaust Duration</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>272</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Advertised Duration</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>262 int./272 exh.</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>0.420 in.</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>0.442 in.</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>0.420 int./0.442 exh.</TD></TR><TR><TD class=overvw-labels>Lobe Separation (degrees)</TD><TD class=overvw-midmargin></TD><TD class=overvw-data>112</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
     
  20. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,717

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    Whatever cam you chose, figure out your oiling issues first, or it wont last long! I you stab another cam and lifters in there without getting the oiling problem fixed you'll just be wasting time and money!
     
  21. racer32
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 745

    racer32
    Member

    L-79 ( # 3863151) specs from Comp Cams "Factory Muscle" series:



    <TABLE border=1><TBODY><TR><TD rowSpan=3>PART

    NUMBER






    </TD><TD colSpan=2>Valve Setting




    </TD><TD rowSpan=3>RPM

    Range






    </TD><TD rowSpan=3>Cam Grind

    Number






    </TD><TD colSpan=4>Duration




    </TD><TD colSpan=2>Valve Lift @ 1.5:1




    </TD><TD rowSpan=3>Lobe Sep.
    Angle









    </TD></TR><TR><TD rowSpan=2>Int.



    </TD><TD rowSpan=2>Ext.



    </TD><TD colSpan=2>Adv.



    </TD><TD colSpan=2>@.050"



    </TD><TD rowSpan=2>In.



    </TD><TD rowSpan=2>Ex.



    </TD></TR><TR><TD>In.



    </TD><TD>Ex.



    </TD><TD>In.



    </TD><TD>Ex.



    </TD></TR><TR><TD>12-106-3



    </TD><TD>HYD



    </TD><TD>.HYD



    </TD><TD>1800-5800



    </TD><TD>151H



    </TD><TD>342



    </TD><TD>342



    </TD><TD>222



    </TD><TD>222



    </TD><TD>.447



    </TD><TD>.447



    </TD><TD>114



    </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>​
     
  22. racer32
    Joined: Sep 22, 2007
    Posts: 745

    racer32
    Member

    ABSOLUTELY!!! Whatever is plugging up the oil is WAY more important than what cam you want to put in it. You might find that your engine is full of crud...no cam swap is going to fix that.
     
  23. Fireant
    Joined: Feb 2, 2009
    Posts: 114

    Fireant
    Member
    from Texas

    My brother put the L79 cam in his 55 chevy and loved it. Nice sound and good power band.
     

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