I typically read threads before I post, I forget most people don't... ha ha! That's why the fresh edit to post 1. So...back to the regular scheduled program, forget that I have an oil leak or anything... Which supplier carries the part as seen in the second picture in post 19? That's all I'm needing, after that everything for breathing/oil filling/positive ventilation will work in harmony
OK, here's a good reply this time. Remember when you had a brass freeze plug in the back of the block. Well !!!!, if you can't find the breather fitting your asking about get another freeze plug and drill it out the receive a PCV grommit and press that modified plug in and use a push in type valve.
Thank you!!! That's the one! Thank you! Looking at it, what would be so wrong just to go back to a road draft tube in conjunction with the breather? I understand the PCV is a good thing as it draws moisture out of the crank case, but wouldn't a road draft, in theory, achieve the same without pulling trash back into the intake and fouling up plugs? The vehicle the engine is in isn't exactly hamb friendly but this is the best place for these early sbc's... It's a 47 Willys that will go off road. Short of worrying about taking in water through the tube, what's wrong with the idea? On that, I take it that there isn't supposed to be lots of oil sitting in the bottom of the road draft tube hole, meaning the valley breather must not be working correctly?
I read everything over and over and you said you put a new oil sending unit in. Did you remove it for this photo? That sealant going over the edge makes it seam as if sender was never in place. At this point I would plug the sender hole temporaly with a pipe plug. Leave the road draft open as is in the photo, check engine oil level to see if you lost any. Then fire up the engine and watch and see what is going on in the hole. I dont see how that can fill and rise to go over. Don't give up just because, find the source of the problem.
I had several different lines/fittings in the sending unit port, removed to try different sealant. I'm just going to plug it permanently and run the oil sender to the front of the block by the timing cover, easier access. The distributor is under the cowel lip. I'm not giving up, just looking for ideas. The oil sitting in the road draft hole had me concerned. I'll have to drive it to see where the oil is coming from, it won't leak at all just sitting there, but when I drive it it'll start leaking bad. Seems this thread must be awesome, I got a whopping 1 star Johnny Gee, thank you for your help. It's a freshly rebuilt engine, machine shop did the short block, I did the rest, and now have this leak. Such is this old stuff though
The Jalopy Journal
