I feel like punching "Mr.Rustoleum" in the face!!

I should probably learn how to multi-quote as well

 

I'm amazed that you guys are finding that using the laziest, poorest method of shooting the cheapest, least appropriate finish possible for use on a collector car is giving disappointing results...

Brian

 

Correct. They have a lot of good stuff at those places.

Believe it or not, some graffiti artists get paid to do what they, and for good money.

They also make paint that smells like bubble gum.

 

Sorry, my pockets arent deep enough to bore you...

this was not the point of my post at all ( although I can see how you feel this way)...
I had always had good luck with Rustoleums older tips, I got a new can with the new tip and I didnt have the best experience.

 

My buddies grounds maintenance company back there had it tough too....the one good thing that frozen precip is good for is making a bunch of cash pushing it around! Your roadster is still an insperation for my next build too btw. Well, once I get some doe saved up myself! Warm waether is on the way buddy!

 

Actually only the "rusty metal primer" contains fish oil.

 

Wow, what an elegant summation of my philosophy.

Do you drive the piss out of a collector car? Not sure never collected any except for some hot wheels when I was 7.

 

The rusty metal primer is a lot thinner then it used to be. And, the nozzle clogged and spit at half full. The satin black is just as bad.

Does anyone else sell a good rusty metal primer?

 

You talkin about that white spray cap ? Ive used them in several colors of rustoleum a few times with no problem.

Actually sprayed several nice jobs on panels I used for pinstriping and sign painting background.

I make sure the cans are warm or put the can in the sink and run hot water on it so it sprays beter if the can was cold

And that Rustoleum Painters touch stuff is great for sign panels. Drys hard and masking tape or stapila pencil wipes off great and doesnt leave a mark or scratches at all,

 

I've always used Krylon.......nothing else.......

 

Ive used Krylon recently too

The stuff that is crap is Valspar from lowes

 

Yes I do. And yes, I use rattle can paint for little stuff. In fact, the rear bumper on the '36 is rattle can gloss black (laquier) that's been lightly polished. Rattle can paint has its place, I don't get complaining on the interweb about how crappy it can look though.

And, we're ALL "collecters" here, unless a Hot Rod is your ONLY car. If you have more cars in your garage, driveway, or yard, than you really need to get to work and back, you're a "collector".

Brian

 

Moral of this thread....Paint your car with crap and it will look like crap

 

I used Rustoluem Sunrise Red on a recent addition I made for my toolbox. Had the new tip and I actually liked how it sprayed. Nothing like breaking out the HVLP gun, but for what I was doing, it worked well. Good coverage, but you have to move faster with it than the older tips.

 

Thats not the moral or the point of this thread.
I drive my hotrod , show my hotrod and have had very good success doing both with parts painted with rattlebomb spraypaint. The point was to complain and start a discussion about the new tips on the Rustoleum brand cans, its gotten carried away from there to where its now a typical HAMB thread,
Pointless with a bunch of blanket statements...

 

My favorite rattle can is tractor supply implement paint made by Valspar. You can buy it in rattle cans or by the pint if you need to use real spray equipment. Its tough, sprays easy, and looks good. Massey ferguson red is almost identical to performance red, but you are limited to tractor colors.

 

Me and a buddy are cleaning up and re-painting an old Vendo 63 Coke machine. He brought over a can of Safety Red Rustoleum. My first thought was that I would be real dissapointed with the "high output" nozzle since I had read nothing but bad stuff on Garage Journal and here about the new nozzle. This stuff sprayed like a dream! It sprays much more like a touch up gun than a rattle can. There was much less overspray and that really helped since the size of the panels I was spraying were fairly large and prone to "dry striping" from the clouds of dry overspray from a typical rattle can. I am still not a fan of Rustoleum paint though because of the extremely slow dry times and the recoat window. If you learn to work with the new nozzle and have plenty of time to literally watch paint drying, you might like the stuff.

 

It doesn't have to be from a paint can. Try any aerosol cans caps , there are only a couple of types.

 

You see this damn graffitti everywhere, but has anyone used any of the paint, possibly to do a set of wheels?? Is it glossy? What sort of surface prep would you need?? Lots of colors, is why I am asking.

 

I prefer Krylon...

 

New rustoleum tips suck, I like krylon!

 

Actually, no Rust-Oleum product contain fish oil anymore.

 

I've been saving the few quarts of 769 "Damp proof red primer" with the 1975 copyright ( and it's 1971 zinc chromate brothers) because I thought it was the last of it's kind, too. This thread inspired me to bring the can in the house and compare the ingredients to the modern product. Lo and behold there is still a 769 product, and there is a 2003 document on line that makes the claim it is a "special fish-oil modified alkyd primer."
http://www.rustoleum.com/tds/1018990 RO-11.pdf ( 2003 print date)

confusingly there is another 1018990 document (rev 111411, maybe 2011?) that just says the 769 product is based on a specially modified alkyd resin.
http://www.rustoleumibg.com/images/tds/7400 System_RO-11_1018990.pdf

Both say "769 is intended for sound rusted steel only. Do not use 769 on clean or abrasive clean steel."

I'm guessing what really happened is the modern wimpy "heavy duty rust inhibitive primers" have replaced 769 on most shelves that I walk by these days.

The old can of 769 says the recipe contains 26.5% "menhaden alkyd resin".
the new MSDS just says modified alkyd resin. Google finds references that menhaden oil is low cost polymerizing agent for alkyd enamel.

So sadly the legend of the magic of fish oil may have been a marketing ploy after all.

 

Menhaden is a fish, right? So it was fish oil, at least at one time. But now, maybe it has been replaced by some different polymerizing agent.

 

It is a poor musician that blames his instrument.











(feel free to punch me next time you see me.)

Seriously though, I wonder if one of those spray can handles you can buy would help?

 

Speak for yourself. . .I rattle-can alot of stuff from tractor parts to small automotive parts, to the entire flat-bed on my wood truck and found this thread to be worthwhile as i go through quite a bit of spray bombs. .

 

Ya, sit a harmonica player at a piano and see how it sounds!

 

True, very true. The wisdom on this site is endless

 

Well, you might as well get used to the ever changing world of paint. When acrylic lacquer, lucite , replaced duco lacquer , and later when centari was to replace dulux, then catylized products , there were some very unhappy painters ! It has only become more complex and expensive with more product under the bench . Paints are better now, there is a lot of competition in paint products. Right now after painting since 1973 , do I give it up or change systems again? I used a lot of Sherwin-Williams products over the past 13 years, no jobber anymore , went belly up , sold out to NAPA, and on it goes, . Good advice to warm your aerosols in hot water. Yo'll also get every last bit from the can. Gary