Well here goes, my chance a being technical. T5 behind a Nailhead in a Model A I'm using a Bendtsen's bellhousing kit for this install. The kit does not provide a lower bellhousting cover. I could not find an OE or aftermarker cover that would work. To solve the delma I made one. The trans is a Mustang T5 with a S10 tailshaft housing. The speedo location on the Mustang tailshaft does not match the location of the S10 (2 inches difference). I used a Dremel, a drill and a No. 10 AC crimp collar to relocate the gear. The dia. of the shaft where the gear is located is 1.110 inches and the machined down area where the gear needs to be relocated is 1.050 inches. To install the gear in the new location a .030 wall thickness collar is needed. The AC crimp collar has a suitable ID and the wall thickness is .031. I used the Dremel to grind through the hardened shaft (about 1/16 inch) and then drilled a hole for the factory lock clip to secure the gear. Attached pictures show the bellhousing cover and the relocated speedo gear.
thanks for the thread. can you explain what a No. 10 AC crimp collar is and how you used it in this application? thanks again...jack
The rubber hose is held to the hard line using a collar which is crimped to secure it. I checked machine shops or parts suppliers and couldn't find a suitable repair collar. I modified the AC crimp collar and it worked in this application.
Could you give some more info on making the cover? Also what would the chances of getting a copy of the templates for it? Please? Doc.
Doc, I have no templates and didn't take any pictures while fabricating the cover. The cover is made from 5 prices of 16 gauge mild steel (on a nailhead the cover attaches to the back of the block and the bellhousing. To mock up the cover I install the crank, oil pan, flywheel and bellhousing on the block. The front of the cover has a 90 degree bent and was shaped to fit in front of the flywheel. The oil pan and the end of the crank affect the shape and the radius was taken from the flywheel. The attaching flange was templated from the back of the block and the bellhousing. The flange was bolted in place and welded to the front piece. A 3 inch wide piece was shaped and welded to the front piece and attaching flange. A 2 inch wide piece was shaped and welded to the 3 inch wide piece and the attaching flange. A football shape piece was fitted and welded in place to complete the cover. I used an anvil, a ballpeen hammer and a T-bar to fabricate the cover. Some of the butt welds have a radius to give the cover a finished look. Hope this is enough info. Later, Joe
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