Before you jump I've searched several threads about the signal stat 900 already and contacted Tugmaster about the Rebel harness. It seems the tech line is closed and I want to finish this up. My signal stat 900 only has 6 wires first off, I currently have flashers at all 4's but only right front/rear turn signals. I do not have left signals or brake lights. This is how it's wired to get what I have, colors are for the signal stat. Green - right front Black - right rear Oarnge - left front Yellow - left rear Blue - hazard Red - ? does have constant power out of it Rebel harness side has 2 open connections left White - brake light switch ? (purple color) - turn/flasher power Hooking the red wire to either does nothing, there is power coming out of the white wire once the pedal is depressed. Any ideas to get these brake and left turns to work ?
If you only have 6 wires, you should not connect the car's hazard circuit to the switch. But the diagrams I find online for the 900 show it has 7 wires. Something funny is going on here, maybe you have a different switch? or someone messed with it inside? Anyways, you need to connect the white wire from the brake switch, and you need to connect the turn flasher wire, to get brake lights and turn signals working properly.
Does your rebel kit have two flashers? I was using an aftermarket old style clamp on flasher switch that only required one flasher unit, so i used the flasher units diagram ,not the rebel one. Though I did not wire in hazzard lights.
Sig Stat and Grote make those switches in 2 versions.....One is for the "standard" USA "3 wire" combination stop/rear t/sigs ,....the other is for the "4 wire" rear lighting systems that use seperate amber rear turn sigs. We would just change (I believe) the white wire connection in the switch,...and it would work for either application. 4TTRUK
Ok this is where I'm at, I took the signal stat apart to see what is what. I have attached a diagram and also rerouted a couple wires after viewing the circuit board. I switched the yellow and orange around which is only for front and rear left side. The key was when I switched the blue and black wires around. After looking at the circuit board I could see that the black wire controlled the flashers and the blue was only for right rear. Now I have both left and right signals along with hazards but still no brake lights. The red wire out of the switch is still hot all the time and is not connected currently. I tried jumping the left rear off the brake light wire and got nothing, that wire was still hooked to the signal switch orange by the way. I again tested the brake light wire with the ohm meter and it provides current when the pedal is depressed. The turn flasher power (purple) out of the harness is still disconnected also. Any ideas which wires out of the signal stat to hook the white (brake light) and turn/flasher power (purple) to ?
You need to connect the white wire from the brake switch, to whichever wire on the turn switch is connected to both rear lights when the switch is "off" (centered).
I think you need to test the signal switch, to determine if it functions and to establish the correct wire functions. 1. Test with a VOM or powered test light, with the switch centered there should be three wires that are interconnected. These will be the brake light power, the left rear, and the right rear. By switching the lever to the right and left positions you can determine which is the right, which is the left, and which is the brake light power in. 2. Now that you know which is the left and right rear, put the lever in the right turn position, you should now have three wire interconnected again, the right rear, the right front, and the flasher power in. Put the lever in the left turn position and you should have three wires interconnected again, the left rear, the left front, and the flasher power. The wire that is common to both left and right is the flasher power in. 3. If the switch tested out this way you now know the correct connections, if not something is wrong with it. 4. Now I would test the wires in the harness to confirm function. I would just use a jumper and apply 12 volts to the light wires one at a time to see that they worked. You already confirmed your brake light switch worked. 5. If everything is good, hook it up and it should work. Your switch does not have a a separate function for hazard flashers, just cap the wire end.
If I unplug the black wire that goes to the harness flasher then I lose hazards and turn signals through the switch. If I plug that black wire from the switch into the brake light wire in the harness, then the hazards come on when brake pedal is depressed. I'm wondering if the 7th wire shouldn't be the brake light wire as it shows in the diagram for the 7 wire unit. This only has 6 wires and is cast 900 right on it, when I had it open there are not witness marks of a 7th wire.
When you look at that sketch I did, there are only two places where the circuit is on both sides at once. They are the black wire and the red wire. Since the red wire is hot it turns on the flashers as soon as you plug it into the harness flasher wire. If I plug the black wire from the switch into the brake light wire from the harness it turns the flashers on once you push the brake pedal. I even jumped the brake light wire over to the right tail light wire and still got no brake light on that side.
The hazard flashers will be "off" most of the time. The brake lights need to be working when the turn signals are "off". It's hard to figure out what's going on looking at your drawing, because I can't tell what moves where when you move the turn lever to one side, or when you turn the hazards on or off.
On the back side of that circuit board are a series of three in a row by 3 deep (9) total per side connector little nubs. Below that at the bottom are two more conector nubs per side. When you move the signal lever up the opposite side under the cercuit board raises up and makes contact with the nubs. I tried jumping the little nubs across with a screw driver to set off the turn signal but nothing happen. Now of course I may have not gotten the correct sequence to make it work.
Well I regrouped today and had it going in about 5 minutes. I went and bought another signal stat 900 from napa, this one had 7 wires and they were colored according to the diagram. Although you only use 6 of the seven because you don't use the blue pilot. If I wasn't in such a hurry to just get the job done I would have taken the new one apart and matched up the wires to the old to see what was screwy there. Rebel Wiring tech line did call back today when I was on the way home with the new switch. Bob was more than helpful in trying to figure out the 6 wire unit, I did find out the brake light wire doesn't work unless you have the key on though. I might of had that somewhere along the line on the 6 wire unit if I had known that...lol Thanks for the help
Right, funny how it would trip the ohm meter when depressing the pedal with the key off. I was testing the system with the power wire in to the switch being the hazard wire out of the harness which is live without key on. The purple turn/signal power wire from the harness only has power when switch is turned on. I did use the purple wire when I hooked this up, so nothing works unless the key is on. It's a great way to not run your battery down but if you needed flashers for a break down you would have to leave the key on. My system is wired for the fuel pump to kick on when key is on, so leaving key on is not good for me.
I've loved this set up from a few years back. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4748920&postcount=46 Good to see you got it going
There's an internal wire that loops back from the housing into the indicator lights on the main body of the unit. Once you ground the body to the steering column the indicator lights on the housing will light up just like a dash indicator light. The unit works just fine without it being grounded, just no indicator lights will light up.
My yankee #856 only has 1 indicator light. You can use it this way for left and right if you install a diode in both the left and right indicator light power lines and attach both lines to the 1 bulb. By the way Bob at Rebel is a great person to deal with, fair price, great service, good product. The diodes are very inexpensive at radio shack. I can post the part number if anyone needs it. This advice also came from Bob at Rebel.
Had the same issue last summer with my rebel kit. I called the fella in tennessee and he talked me right through it. If i can get some time today, i'll go out and whip up a diagram of how i wired it and got it working. It AMAZED me that the ol' boy seemed to be guiding me by memory!
I thru the package away so I don't know the part number that was on it. The number on the diode is GA05 1040 There was 4 in a pack, I think the price was $2.39 + tax.
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