(Welding question) Did I go too far?!

I'm trying to put a bend in some 2x3 rec tubing to mimic the bend in my '27's subframe. Apparently, I got a little overzealous with the cutting disc! Is this too much of a gap (little less than 1/4" at the widest point) to fill with .035 wire?





On a positive note, picked up the focal point of this track nosed roadster the other day! Thanks to HAMB member Verminator for cutting me a deal!

 

That's a bit spooky but can you maybe cut some filler pieces to fit in and then weld it up?

 

As Mr48Chev said,but cut a peice in a rectangular shape that fits in to the gap that is just small enough so you can get a good weld on all 3 faces,if you know what I mean or if you're worried start again with a new peice and use the old bit on other parts of your chassis,can't have enough offcuts.

Ps Nice nose by the way.

 

I'm not a pro welder but I always make sure my gaps are not big. The nose looks good though.

 

Fill it with a piece and weld it all up, then maybe double it up with a plate to reinforce it.. What's the word for that? Not a gusset, but a..???? Anyway, double it up on the inside side of the rail so it will be plenty strong.

Strong frame = good.

 

Easy to fill in with weld. Personally, I would just bend the tube that small amount.

 

That's a big gap. I would try to get a plate inside to back up the bead.

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If you are used to "your" welder, that gap can be filled and be good, and look good. Just try for less gap next time, though.

Try a little test someday with gaps: Take 2 pieces of 120 wall plate, and set the gap 3/32. Then support the plates so the gap backsides are not laying on a surface, have just air behind the gap. Experiment with increasing amps until the weld bead is not protruding much at all. When it shows like that, flip it over to see that the weld is darn near flush with the back edges, if not totally welded. This is good practice when doing chassis work where you can't ever see the "back side" to see how good your weld is.


Gaps are good, if not too big, compared to tight fitting pieces.

 

it is a bit wide of a gap but it can be welded. Its not a super critical part. if the was on the actual frame I would say no way. the subrail will be bolted to the frame Im assumming so its not under a super lot of stress. be careful when welding it because it will shrink the tube on the side you weld so it wont fit your frame anymore.

 

Weld downhill with a side to side weave.

 

I'm no pro, but I believe 3 good passes with decent penetration would fill it in fine. 1 on each side of the gap and than 1 down the middle to burn it all together.

 

Practice on a similar piece of scrap to get heat right. Practice always helps to get it right without making a small problem bigger.

 

It'll be fine, if in doubt go find a welder and buy him a beer and i'll bet he'll make it look like a silver wristwatch band for you.

 

It takes a little practice, but you can fill a gap of that size with success. I run the wire welder with one hand and feed 3/32 tig rod with the other, like tig welding. You might give it a try with some sample pieces. It beats the old shipyard method of laying an old bolt in the gap and welding over it.

 

I wouldn't try to fill that gap with weld without a backer. I'd place a backing plate behind the cuts, inside the tube, then fill the gap with a puddle. This will achieve a uniform weld depth and minimize stress risers. That's what I would do, your mileage may vary.

 

I do what marty does. On non critical stuff ill use pieces of scrap and feed it in or lay a piece inside or out side of it, or even flush. Shit sometimes a nail will work great.

 

The root gap is ok and there are a few ways to fix the problem. The simple fix is to cut the fourth side and move the two pieces closer. The main problem is the square cut. You will have a hard time getting good penetration unless you put a 30 degree bevel on each side. Second fix would be bevel and weave in a root and a few covers. Third would be bevel and tack backer bars inside, run a hot root and covers. Best advice is buy thinner cutoff wheels or use a bandsaw.

 

No!

 

Start over or do this, if you weld that gap it is going to pull every which way but the way you want it too

DO NOT TRY AND FILL THE GAP!!

 

Coming from a boilermaker.. i'd do a verticle down and weave from side to side. If you were able to tack it, you should be fine to weld it.

 

I would stick weld that, have been known to use a fill rod WITH the arc rod, add like gas weld...

I don't like mig, but you could add a back to the weld by using a drill at the corner to make it so you could put a long 1/4" bolt under the weld... Then, go the other direction, drilling thru the bolt you just welded over to do one the other way... Hope that's clear...
Karl

 

Thats not bad at all. Just take your time, you could either do it in a series of spot welds OR run a bead of weld down both sides of the gap making the gap smaller then finish weld it. A 1/4" ain't no thang

 

I would cut a "sliver" to put in the gap, or just weld it up/grind it smooth/ and plate the outside up.

 

I'm with Voodoo on this one. If that happened here at the school, it would be a do-over... But if you bend up a couple of gusset plates to go on the inside of the verticals, you will have something to lock the joint in place when you weld it up (they will add some strength as well). Drill 3 holes on each side of the joint and plug weld the plates in first. You'll obviously have to bend the joint open again to get them in there.

BTW, I've found time and again that this will happen and it's just not worth trying to leave that one side together. Cut the joint fully apart (match the end angles), and weld it back together. You'd be done by now...

 

unfortuneately this is not a boiler. Coming from a machine fabricator (to be technical, square not round) if you do not do an internal gusset like others have said, or re make the parts. It will move on if you fill the gap. Plus, you dont want to depend on a weld only in the gap. Example being, when building a roll cage in a racecar if your cope is off on your tube and you fill it with weld....its not going to hold up under pressure.
Another point, downhill welds are the weakest weld you can do!

 

I'd probably pull the joint apart and tack a plate inside the tubing. The slip it back together and go ahead and weld it up. The plate inside will allow the fill to work better and not have to get things so hot that they distort or warp.

 

Fish plate.

 

I have to laugh at all the no way replies. If you are good with a mig welder you can easily fill that gap with a full penetration weld and grind it smooth so there is no weld showing at all. No fish plates or anything else needed.

 

x 2, Agreed

 

I agree..