Thanks guys. I'm pretty much sorted for parts now Jeff thanks. Just a couple odds and ends to grab next time I pass briefly through New Orleans. Speedway will deliver to the hotel we use at crew change, which makes life easier for we folk who live on the very perimeter of the known world. I did some work chopping the 'stock' glass dash down today, no piccies yet though.
Yes, me too. I have to go offshore again in a couple of days, so things will come to a halt for five weeks or so as I float about the Gulf of Mexico again.
Started plumbing brakes in.. And tranny cooler... Got the newly overhauled (cleaned and painted and greased) Corvair steering box on... And the extended drag link, complete with oddball spring loaded track rod end devices. All the rage 80 years ago, apparently... There will be a hole and a fan in the centre of that stainless fan shroud eventually, when I find the right fan. Probably be electric, as I'm not really a 'fan' of a steel finger chopper spinning in an open engine bay. Ford 1" master cylinder. With residual valves, and proportional regulator for the rear discs. Got to find some P clips to secure the brake lines properly. I tried to make some... what a pain. Made and welded in a battery tray, so the battery slips in neatly under the seat, but still above the bottom of the frame rails. Everything is covered in sawdust, grinding dust, sanding dust, 'glass dust and gecko shit. We're due to move house when I get home in December, so I fear progress will slow even further. But, I will have a big new shop to work in so things can only improve.
I'm gonna be too scared to cut steel or spray paint, in case I get it dirty, but at least I won't be tripping over shit every time I take a step.
Nice job, I'm working on a 29 rpu. still building the body from scratch. I'll keep watching ya build this. like your frame!
Sorry, but no progress the last couple of months. We moved to the new house and life is chaos while we sort it out. The rod is sat under a tarp in the garage, surrounded by boxes and junk and cement. The shop is sloooowly taking shape though, got some tools hung on the walls, and a big bench will go where the sacks of cement currently reside. I spend my time making things for the house, grills, railings, furniture etc.
Mind you, my daughter did make me a hot rod cake for my 52nd birthday last week: I'm sure I can see a little '41 Willys in the roof line....
Not really mate, been pretty busy doing things for the house and have acquired another project too, an Austin Healey replica kit car thing. I don't plan to start work on that until the hot rod is finished though. The only thing I've done recently is weld a couple of brackets on for the spun aluminium fuel tank.
I've hardly touched this for months, so busy with other stuff. Last week I took the body off to start finishing it up, using my patented home made electric powered body lift frame, brought all the way from England. I put some 'glass in a few places, ground a bit off. Also did some work on the doors to get them ready for finishing, made a place for the latches to fit. I mounted the chrome alternator, very gold chainer looking. It was hardly rocket science, drilling a hole in the engine plate, but I still have to make a tension bracket. I've just arrived back in the Gulf for another month, so no progress for a while, but next time home I plan to get this baby finished and driving. I promise!
Do you think these Brooklands screens work with a car like this? I brought them with us from England, as I think they are dead cool, but I'm not sure if they 'fit'.
Nice project. I'm building a '29 roadster pickup. Those screens are cool, but I'm not sure they are right for the roadster pickup. Leaves a rather abrupt, unfinished look just leaving the square corners of the cowl sticking up there. Bob
Personally I didn't think they fit, but I try to keep my comments to myself because you have to be the one that likes it. My .02 is the body is too tall and boxy to have a short round screen on it. I damn near shot coffee out my nose when I read the fiberglass and non American comment. I love starting the day off with a good laugh!
After seeing this yesterday I also seen this roadster with that style of windshield. http://www.streetrodderweb.com/features/0810sr_1932_ford_dynaliner_deuce_roadster/
Those screens may look and work OK. You can allways go back to something more trad if ya want- I say go for it! P.S.- Cool cake!!
Your build looks great. Personally I don't think the screens flow very well. I think it'd look better with a cut down full-width square windshield leaned back a bit.
Sometimes you get tunnel vision when working on something for so long, and a wake up call is required. I think they look a bit small, but my wife says they look great. Maybe the screens look good, but not really on this particular car. Even in their original format they looked a bit goofy. I thought my 'glass comment might inspire somebody to reply. The problem with the Hamb is the high turnover of posts, and things move down the page so fast they are gone and forgotten in minutes if nobody adds anything.
I might well do that, as they are only held on with four screws. I can make a bigger screen for it in the future, but I just want to get it finished for now, been on it for 2 1/2 years.
Try mounting the screens to the top of the dash or just inside on the dash near the top, may give the external look, a cleaner look.
What did you have to do in the end to make make the l300 hubs fit the model a axle?I would like to know as l300 brakes are easy to get over here and i have a few model a axles.By the way nice build and im also building a 28 rpu.
I might try that, simple job to do, may look better. I seem to remember I just had to lightly machine the hubs out to take some new taper roller bearings I found that fitted the A axle. The machine shop goofed up and didn't bore them deep enough, so there is nowhere to put any sort of a seal to keep road dirt out. But, if you go too deep the inner ring of the outer bearing will foul on the taper of the stub axle. Anybody with a lathe could do it pretty easy. I don't know if I have the part numbers of the bearings I used stashed somewhere, I'll have a look.
Right, I have the motor running, fired it up today, exhausts on, but no mufflers, so it is as loud as hell. It fired right up after I spun it over to get fuel through. I have ordered some longer chrome turnouts, with mufflers built in, and I plan to fit some heat shields over them, so that should make it less painful on the shin with those annoying little 'down to the bone' burns. All the wiring is in, just needs tweaking and wrapping, instruments are in, battery installed, water, oils, headers painted with self destructing paint.... I started bleeding the brakes tonight, and the front discs worked fine, but the back ones, a Speedway disc conversion, don't seem to want to pump up. The bleed nipple is flowing brake fluid, but the piston is not moving to take up the slack. Is there some special technique for bleeding a system with proportional regulator? It is a 1" Ford MC, with 2psi residual check valves on each end. Proportional regulator is in the back half, and it is wound full in, to give full pressure, which I assume is correct for bleeding. The brake system. I might lose the residual valves, as I don't really know if they are necessary. The MC is a bit lower than the calipers, but not much. I can't see fluid running back down, as there is now way air can get in to replace it, and it won't 'pull' the brake pistons back in.
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