1952 Plymouth Cranbrook project

Well, I picked this up off a guy in my car club and I'm trying to decide what to do with it. I have been wanting to learn to weld and actually want to take some classes pretty soon. And, since I have split with my wife and have moved out into a new place (with a TON of room for cars), I have plenty of time on my hands to mess with it. It is actually fairly straight, has some rust in the floors and rockers etc.......I would like to find a straight or slant 6 and get it on the road for under $1500 using all swap meet or used parts.

Any ideas ?

 

I'm building the same car in my garage. If there is anything that I can help with let me know. I bought the same car in 1957 and drove it to high school. Only drive train mod is to install a S-10 5 speed.

Marv Norton
[email protected]

 

Got any pics Marv ?

 

I've got the body off the frame and re-doing a lot of rust. Replacing all the panels with 18 gage metal. The frame is completed and waiting on the boby. What pictures would you like to see? Do you have a E-mail address, it would be earier that way, I beleive?
Marv Norton

 

Pics of what you started with etc.... Just trying to get ideas now.
[email protected]

 

that's a nice lil tudor, can't believe even b Ariz. those cars had rusted floors/rockers.
I've got a 50 tudor; keep us posted on yours.

 

It has some rust in the floors and rockers. This one is not differant than the rest apparently.

 

slant six is a lot of work its a long motor. my car (51 hardtop) has a sbc if i were to do it again i would have kept the flatty or went 318-360. my first 50's car was a 52 plymouth 2 door. i have owned like six of them. if i can help in any way feel free to ask. also join the p15-d24 forum. the front brakes are a pain spring for the disk kit.

 

Looks like a solid start.

 

Just my 2 cents worth, I'd stick with the flat six, and depending on if you want an automatic or a manual either an early PowerFlite or 3 speed OD. Also, I'd move the front shock top mounts to F100 mounts on the frame. Then upgrade the front brakes to disks via one of several conversion kits. Finally, go with the tallest rear tires you can fit without major modifications.

A major engine/transmission swap is likely to eat most of your budget. The above combination should give you a safe and highway capable set up, with potential for cool mods down the road.

 

Maybe this will give you some ideas: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMukzqkY0Z8 check the sidebar for more flatty MOPARS

 

The /6 needs a wide engine bay because of the /. You should be able to find a running 70s or so Van or pick up with a 318 pretty cheap, they have the rear sump set up you need. cheapest thing is to keep the flattie.

 

No flattie to keep.

 

The slant 6 is not only wider, it is about 6" longer than a flat 6.
The easy way out is a Mopar small block. Plenty of threads with details here and also on the www.p15-d24.com site.
If you want to run a flatty just start looking and several will appear since most folks go to a v-8.

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Mine had a 318 with a 904 trans and a 77 volore rearend. I even used the drivline without cuting. it used a lock up converter got 19 MPG on the road.

 

also 49 plymouth rear fenders look real sweet when molded.

 

If you go with a slant use the 73 and up spool mounts (safer) on the engine side and just fab some mounts up for the frame side. Also if you go with a slant you will have to mount the alternator on the driver side. I would go with a GM one wire and either GM HEI or Pertronix for the ignition. The one thing Mopar could never get right was their electronics.


http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k199/360scamp/48 chevy/?start=all

 

You'll get plenty of disagreement on that statement.

.

 

Looks like it's in really good shape and I like your plan.. Good lick with it......

 

The body looks really solid, good luck with your budget build.

 

Dim lights at idle and ballast resistors....