Base + Clear that looks like candy???...with photo example inside

What is the cut/polish material on this job? ^^^^

 

Jumpin JEZZUZ! I had to look at that for a minute. At first i thought "why is he posting a picture of some goofball with a camera?" Then I realized what it was! Wow! Thats pretty impressive for "plastic" paint.

 

Is that a Pagan Gold on the Chev?I am in a dilemma on colour.I am doing a channelled 32 roadster and want a nice gold kandy with some pearl effect.I have already experimented with Spanish Gold/Sunrise Pearl combo but not happy with the result on several sprayouts.Used a 50/50 mix of the colours and did them on a yellow/silver/white base for comaprison.
The yellow looked crap and the white base was "washy".The silver base with the 50/50 combo looked the best.
The sprayouts of course are only a guide and we did them on small cards.
I looked at the HOK website and they use a Pagan Gold(KBC12) with a Solar Gold base(Shimrin Glamour Metallic)FBC 01).
Anyone with advice on using Pagan Gold and what base coat to use for the best effect.Also maybe using a mix again of the Pagan Gold and the Sunrise Pearl on a base of ?

 

I have researched and found that this car is a candy tangerine.

 

Here's the gig on this one, it starts at the base. The primer coat will "read" if it's not as flat as what you want on top. Single stage Volante Coach Maroon was applied to a black base that was nearly as slick as the picture. Afterward, the color was blocked down (surfaced) to the desired flatness starting with 1200 wet wrapped around a nice flat paint stick, and ending with 2000 the same way. Then a 3M Trizact 3000 pad was used at high speed with a lot of the same soapy water, and using a Dynabrade industrial sander (palm style D/A). Once done, the actual polish was handled with an old school wool pad and Meguires #3.

The thing about the urethanes, like many plastics, is that it has a texture. That texture is what makes reflections go out of focus when you start to step back from the panel. That door was probably 10-12 feet away from the wall in the pic. The real bitch about it all is the never ending sanding before polish. Regular compound is used once in a while to speed up the process, but it tends to dig too hard. Even the fine stuff makes big heat, but it can be handy for areas that curve in or parts of the car with less reflective values, ya know, to get it done! The polisher I use is older than many of the boards members. My dear departed Dad bought it used in 63, an all aluminum Black and Decker electric that spins near 3000RPM. For final glaze, you can use your favorite swirl remover on a foam pad, but that too is Meguires 3 for me. I apply that with a 5000RPM air sander that also probably spins about 3000 or so with the wt of the pad and mat'l. The torque from the power tool is essential to cut the sand scratches and you have to move around a lot on 1 panel to avoid excessive heat. Heat helps, but after too much time it'll simply soften the surface.

Some call it "die back" when the finish dulls, but what's really happening is the sand scratches are "standing back up" after the paint kools down.

Sorry. I know you just asked the time and I built you a watch...

 

You can build me a watch any time. Evan after doing this stuff for over 35 years, I can still learn a thing or two from some fellows here...Highlander, Overspray....
I find pretty much no one goes through the trouble to do Urethane right, so the original texture always comes back. You failed to mention how long you wait fefore sanding and buffing. ALmost everyone you talk to, tells you to do it within a week. or the paint gets too hard.
I wait a month or more. I usually start with 800, then 100, then 1500, then 2000. I've got a water sander and Trizak 3000, but never tried it. I guess I'm afraid to burn it with a DA. I spend over 40 hours sanding a car out before the buffing operations begin.
That's how you get a finish like Highlander's Lincoln door!
Now, back to the "Candy Situation".
There is a big difference between the reflective shine on Highlander's pic, and what we were talking about in the thread. The reflective values of his paint are perfect. Great shine. But that is not really what sets apart the look of candy from shiny base/clear. Depth in the paint comes from the translucency of the paint. The amount of clarity in the paint you can see, even in the paint can. Modern paints, the basecolors, are very opaque. Some of the expensive pearls and such have more translucency, but still relatively opaque. They are made to go on and cover well with minimun amount of coats. Then the clear provides the shine. But it is a "flat" kind of shine, like a solid piece of colored plastic.
Now, the old lacquers, had much more clear resin in the formula, and the color toners were clearer, more transparent/translucent. So you could see through more layers of paint. Hence, paint jobs took more coats to cover well. Yes, the coats were thinner, with lacquer also. About the same amount of thinner that evaporates off, as the paint itself. But you could see through may layers of the lacquer, giving it depth. As well as shine, when it was buffed out.
Now, Candy takes it to another level. Metallic or pearl base, with a tinted clear that gives it the color you choose. The more coats you put on, the more depth you have, though it is a diminishing return...the more coats, the more the toners/pigments tend to block the metallic underneath, as well as the darkening color taking away from the metallic base. Then the finishing clear on top give it the protection from wear, as well as UV protection, and the source of the shine. BUt the tinted clear gives it the depth you all know and love.
And as discussed before, the lacquers had cleaner, clearer toners than the modern paints have today, so even comparing candy to candy, lacquer looks better. The materials used were much different, better looking, and probably toxic (and the reason they are not widely sold today)
But candy urethane is still spectacular, and compared to regular base/clears, blows them away in depth and shine! It cannot be duplicated with base/clear.

 

Well you just got to the heart of the matter, and one of the "tricks" I used on that Lincoln. More like a choice than a trick, the 1st mix of color was a great match to the OEM color. I did a spray out over black, and all through application, poilsh, etc, it looked great...until I took it outdoors. I spray over curved panels and there was nothing but a bland ugly maroon color. I called the supplier and asked for a remix (I always do a pint at a time to establish formula), but this time try to make it in toners instead of oxides. He calls the transparent tints toners. The remix was the same in the shop and miles apart outdoors because the dark base could lend itself to the depth. Inspiration for all of this jabber was my research into Packard Blue. That color is almost all "Prussian Blue" tint with a "drop of white" (quote from the recipe!). Prussian Blue is what we would call kandy blue, transparent like ink. Something to think about.

You're right on about kandy. Only the punishment of controling transparent clear over a sparkly base will net the right result. And the trizact pad...don't fret it bro. Use an interface pad between your D/A and the 3000 so it mates to the panel, but lots of soapy water and a high speed will be your friend and remove a lot of wheel time. The finer the stroke the better the result, which is why I use a Dynabrade for that step.

 

Tons of great info! I'm soaking all this in and I'm sure it'll help me have a better paint job when the time comes. Thanks again!!!

 

that truck of yours crys out for candy. I hope you can pull it off.

 

man you are not kidding, saved it in my vintage truck file for reference next fall for paint work.

 

Me too, hahaha!

 

Does the application of these 'modern' Candies still require the same technique laying down the base and candy? Briskly walking down the entire side of vehicle? Ala Watson style?

 

Well you shouldn't have built such a pretty motor! Now you gotta make sure the outside looks as good.

 

Yes. Like firearms, gun control is a steady hand.

 

Terd I have kept my comments to myself till now because you are getting information overload.

You saw my Visor and my gas tank at the show in winston-salem and those were all done with silver base, Kandy, and Clear. You can do it brother!!!

Here is my advice to you. Get yourself a couple of old scrap hoods from Pick a Part. Do each one at a separate time with a different number of coats of Kandy and then compare them yourself. Make sure you make written notes of each test color you do so you know EXACTLY how you got that look. I have a notepad with 15 pages of notes just on a Silver base with Pagen Gold candy over it. You need to make sure you write down every detail down to pressure at the gun, fan width (upper knob), number of passes, setting on the paint gun for color (the big knob), How you mixed the paint, how much overlap, and any other details you will need and once you start practicing you will learn all the nuance.

For a first timer (like I was about 3 years ago) I suggest you set the gun up for very light coats first and practice about a 75% overlap. You might end up with 5-10 candy coats that way but the main thing is getting even overlaps and even speeds till you get better at it. I just did a friends car where we did the whole roof in candy first then laid out a pattern and some lace and painted his other color over that for a different type of effect, but I ended up doing 8 coats of HOK Aqua Blue over silver to get the effect and look he wanted. We rolled the car out to make sure it was good before we did the other stuff and if I was happy then it must have been good.

As for how to get that color on that car, I would use a Gold base and then use Brandywine over top of that. It will give you an almost purple look when done. The down side IMHO to using a gold base is you lose some depth. You could also try a silver base with their Candy Purple and just do a few extra coats to get the darker color you want.

Check out this website and you can see a few examples of candies over different base colors to see how it changes the color. http://www.tcpglobal.com/hokpaint/hok-urethane-kandys.aspx

If I can help you let me know.

 

What I did on the firewall of my 60 olds is first I sprayed two panels with black sealer then my purple KBc from house of kolor. The one I did two coats and cleared it. Called her good. The second one I sprayed my first layer, covered it in intercoat clear, second coat of kbc, followed by another layer of intercoat clear, then another coat of kbc, followed by my final clear.... The intercoat clear added the depth and there is a huge difference not really color wise but it's like the intercoat clear suspends the pearls it turned out great. In the sun is where the magic happens.

 

The Golden Fleece. Often chased. Hard to hold.