I have a 1930 Model A coupe. The whole car is stock and still has the banger. I want to get rid of the bulb at the end of the steering box and run my own wiring with a light switch and turn signals. How do I go about doing this. Help please!
Get a '41-48 Ford headlight switch and the floor switch for high/low beams... Figgerout how to mount...just drilling a hole in the dash is often way too exciting in an A! Find one of the online or in the catalogs wiring diagrams so you know than black wire is taillight, green is brakelight, which wires from headlight are hig and low, your park light is either in headlight or in cowllights... Follow '48 Ford diagram online...HL switch directly feeds, from marked terminals, taillight and parking lights plus dashlamp if you want. HL wire goes to center of floorswitch, both high beams to one terminal on there, both lo beams to the other. See if you smell smoke...
1941 wiring diagram...DON"T FREAK!!! Note that everything you need is in the top inch and is really pretty simple! The rest is a huge wad of gauges and regulators... http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/...al-pics/Flathead_Electrical_wiring1941car.jpg Model A: http://www.webjunk.com/modela/wp-content/uploads/2008/02/wiring-diagramcolor2sm.jpg Again, all you need is in about the top inch...ID the wires by color.
If your talking about the thing at the end of the box i believe you snap off the bail and it then comes off. then you can unbolt this thing at the bottom. It has two small bolts. You can get one with an extend tube so it wont leak as much. i was thinking of shortening the rod and just making a block off plate.
Push down on the wire clip And then pull it out of the bottom of the box If you are going to keep the banger and stock steering box the model A wiring kit is real cheap and very well made. I am only going to run the banger for a little bit in my Tudor but it is getting new wires just to be save.
On the new wires...the contact plate within the switch is part of the new wiring harness. Many of these plates simply do not give adequate contact, so safest drill is to cut new wires away one by one and solder to cleaned-up original plate. Replace actual wires and maybe spring only, keep old contacts. As noted above, you REALLY want to order an aftermarket lower plate with tube that runs above oil level...
Bruce was right! Helluva gas smell when I drilled the hole in the dash... I got the drop light working, and what do you think I found??? Drat!
So this is what i need. heres a link http://www.brattons.com/product.asp...artPosition=1&strSearchCriteria=any&PT_ID=all
i forgot to mention i put my switch in the seat riser and ran all the wires up under the seat pan. So i just reach down and turn it on, but as im getting fatter its getting harder. i did wire this from scratch though.
I want to wire my model a from scratch. Will I need to use the bulb that originally connects to the steering box or can I just run a fuse box?
yah i did my fuse box under the seat. so i just pick up the seat when i have a problem. I was also thinking of cutting down the rod for the switch in bcchopit's second pic and just making a block off plate. havent done it yet just an idea.
can i just buy a fuse panel with 6 fuse push ins? Thanks for all the help. I am only 17 and don't know wiring that well.
I dont think they make 6v push ins. You can get the glass ones. The block off plate i would just cut it with a saw, torch or plasma useing the gasket as a templete. Drill the holes. But you would have to cut down the square shaft that sticks out. you could just buy the plate with the longer tube and run that.
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