As promised at the end of my post on my new shop, http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=663908 here's some pics of my updated jig and new frame rails. First, a trip off to the sandblaster to start fresh. Then, pick up some new frame rails fresh out of the press. 3/16 Cold rolled plate Set jigs in place and start fixtures. More pics and info to follow. hopefully machine shop stuff will be set up and running soon.
Good to see you up and rolling, Dave. Sorry I couldn't join you fellas in Detroit. Lookin' forward to completing the fender skirt project, and starting in on the headliner for the '34.
Great looking frame you're starting on there. Any reason why your using 3/16" stock? I'm totally envious of anyone with that much space to work in! Keep posting.
Looking awesome Dave. I hope you have much success and I look forward to seeing the work you are putting out.
The stock frames measure Approx .150 in thickness. 3/16 (.187) is just .037 thicker. When Henry built these cars, it wasn't a consideration that one day they would have V-8 motors with many times the HP. Besides I think my press-brake operator can do a nice sharp radius.
I agree, very nice bends. If the frame isn't going top be boxed I can appreciate the added thickness. My concern is it adds about 18 lbs. to the structure. I'm keeping an eye on this thread. Very cool frame. I about tired of rect. tubing frames.
That's just some extra weight to help push down on the rearend....forcing those skinny bias plys into the ground when you stomp the gas
The next time you have the chance, pick up a stock frame by the horns and twist it. Now imagine what your V-8 of choice is doing to it. I can have these made in .120 (1/8) thickness if the weight is of concern. Let your conscience be your guide. This concept of this one frame was for the person building a car with out boxing the frame. I am going to build some with Zs, front and rear and some with a swept front. Also with the choice of suicide or my stock style front cross member. Here's a pic of the front cross member and choice of horns, long and short A pic of one of my frames built from 2x3 .120 wall tubing
I'm working on a set with made out of 10 gauge for the weight conscience crowd. And also boxing plates. Here's a pic of stock thickness
... Kos ,one thought, Its not unsprung weight, and its close to ground, much lower roll center and 18 lb will ride better.....
18 pounds ls like a bag of dog food, not really much at all. At first I thought the wall thickness looked a little cumbersome but after looking at the assembled frame it actually looks pretty good. You are right about a stock A frame twisting like a wet noodle without boxing and proper center crossmembers and even K members. I think yours will still need those to be v8 worthy, but I'm sure I am telling you something you already know. It sure would be nice to start with fresh, unrusty metal, and your frame has the nice curves of the original. I like it. After boxing and adding lots of crossmembers I can guarantee that my stock A frame has picked up more than 18 pounds. Don
Im still trying to figure out how he broke the taper? And do you make that front crossmember & horns too?
four separate bends. the flat blank is cut with a v-notch where the taper will meet the straight portion. Oh and MORE shots of the blue ..... Chevy?....... 5W please
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