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Features The Official 60-66 C-10 Chevy Truck Picture Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by TexasHardcore, May 8, 2006.

  1. jason65
    Joined: Dec 9, 2009
    Posts: 1,083

    jason65

    I got mine all cleaned up and ready for car season to start next month.
     

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  2. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,487

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane

    Now that is original! A bricklayers rear viewmiror! :D
     
  3. Blackcherry
    Joined: Jan 23, 2008
    Posts: 44

    Blackcherry
    Member

    Keep us posted with the build, creative lowering, looking forward to the progress. Mine needs some lowering.
     

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  4. Tommy454
    Joined: Sep 6, 2010
    Posts: 85

    Tommy454
    Member

    Here's my 63 GMC 1000 daily driver. 307/TH400 auto. :)
     

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  5. wolfex1
    Joined: Feb 5, 2007
    Posts: 156

    wolfex1
    Member

    A '61 is easy to lower the front as it has adjustable torsion bars. I added longer bolts at the rear or the bars and this will get it down to the rubber nubs on the A-arms if I want. But with the weight of the engine, having dropped the radiator mounts, I found that I have to adjust the frame back up a bit. But the body still sits way low due to the channel.
    I had blocks in the rear previously, but had a scrub line problem. Because I am going to expose the frame in the rear a bit this time, I decided to move the springs off of the trailing arms to behind the axle. This way I can keep the springs the same height and keep the same ride quality, but can raise the top spring mount up inside the frame to get the back down.
     
  6. I recently rebuilt this model. I added it to the Sunday models thread, but thought it might fit in here too.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    It's supposed to look like this:
    [​IMG]
     
  7. jason65
    Joined: Dec 9, 2009
    Posts: 1,083

    jason65

    I think it's cool. Good job.
     
  8. Blackcherry
    Joined: Jan 23, 2008
    Posts: 44

    Blackcherry
    Member

    Is the original yours or inspiration, awesome detail.
     
  9. jchav62
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,932

    jchav62
    Member

    Just scored a killer deal on a freshly rebuilt 327 for her '65. It'll been revving her along this cruise season..... :)
     
  10. Blackcherry
    Joined: Jan 23, 2008
    Posts: 44

    Blackcherry
    Member

    Thanks for the insite, great ingenuity. Can you elaborate on the longer bolts and how they help lower the nose. I have a '68 Dart and want get it a little lower? Sorry guys for the following pic;)
     

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  11. Thanks!

    That's really my old beater.
     
  12. deflaytedwayz
    Joined: Mar 18, 2011
    Posts: 69

    deflaytedwayz
    Member

    Guy from a local club's truck
     

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  13. wolfex1
    Joined: Feb 5, 2007
    Posts: 156

    wolfex1
    Member

    OK, hope this helps. The torsion bar is attached to the A arm near the pivot point on the frame. As the tire raises and lowers, the torsion bar twists accordingly. The twist is transmitted to the rear of the bar, which is attached to a short stationary arm which is mounted to the frame and resists the twist initiated by the A arm end. On the other end (toward vehicle center)of this short arm is the bolt that I referred to. It connects the frame crossmember and the short arm. Hopefully, you can see from my crude drawing, that as the bolt is lengthened, the other end of the short arm pivots slightly, the twist on the torsion bar is decreased, which decreases the force on the A arm, which in turn allows the wheel to raise in relationship to the frame. This in effect, lowers the vehicle. I lengthened the bolt by replacing it with a longer grade 8 bolt. After you get your ride height where you want it, be sure to realign you front end to prolong you tire life. ~WX1
     

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  14. Brenton
    Joined: Feb 13, 2012
    Posts: 20

    Brenton
    Member

    Here's a pic of my 63 C10 Panel truck
    [​IMG]
     
  15. Rico's Chop Shop
    Joined: Sep 29, 2009
    Posts: 55

    Rico's Chop Shop
    Member

    [​IMG]Still working on it...
     
  16. Blackcherry
    Joined: Jan 23, 2008
    Posts: 44

    Blackcherry
    Member

    Thanks, I understand the mechanism, unsure on how the longer bolt helps. I'll have to get under the car and look. I assumed less bolt length would lower it more. Thanks for the Great illustration.

    The Dart set up looks like this, its like a big allen key on the end.
     

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    Last edited: Feb 14, 2012
  17. wolfex1
    Joined: Feb 5, 2007
    Posts: 156

    wolfex1
    Member

    OK Think of it like a seesaw; when one side goes up, the other side goes down. Think of the torsion bar as the pivot point. Adjust the allen key untill the ride height is where you want it. If you run out of adjustment, get a longer adjusting bolt.
     
  18. Blackcherry
    Joined: Jan 23, 2008
    Posts: 44

    Blackcherry
    Member

    Thanks Wolf, any pics of your '39? Looks cool
     
  19. wolfex1
    Joined: Feb 5, 2007
    Posts: 156

    wolfex1
    Member

    There's a couple of pics on page 45 of the "Who has a strait 6 in your hot rod?" thread. It's was in the original Hot Rod Flatz blue, but you can get the idea. My computer crashed hard before Christmas and I lost all my good pics. I'll take some more in the spring when things turn green again.
     
  20. Does anyone know where the VIN number is stamped on the frame of the 63 GMC 1/2 ton pick up?

    I just went over mine and there's nothing on the DS frame anywhere or PS under the cab.
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2012
  21. This is real nice!
     
  22. wolfex1
    Joined: Feb 5, 2007
    Posts: 156

    wolfex1
    Member

    Here's an update on my '61 build.
     

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  23. lakeroadster
    Joined: Nov 6, 2008
    Posts: 604

    lakeroadster
    Member
    from *

    Wow... that red hurts my eyes :eek:
     
  24. wolfex1
    Joined: Feb 5, 2007
    Posts: 156

    wolfex1
    Member

    Yes, you either love it or hate it, but you won't walk past it without giving it a look. It' MF (Massey Furgeson) red available at tractor supply store for $35 a gallon. You can get hardner for it too, to add some more gloss and hardness. It seems pretty forgiving for an amateur painter like me to use, also. The cab is painted with the same type of paint, but in low gloss black.
     
  25. zippeay
    Joined: Aug 7, 2006
    Posts: 334

    zippeay
    Member
    from Hooper, Ut

    I'm thinking of buying some supremes for my 64, anyone know what size I should buy? I am doing the 5 lug conversion using the front cross member off my 78 parts truck and I'm also using the rear end from the 78 too. Any suggestions? I was thinking of going with 15's but I'm not sure how wide. I'm going for the mild custom look.
     
  26. chevytrucknut
    Joined: Mar 15, 2006
    Posts: 8

    chevytrucknut
    Member

    The 78 rear end is a little wider than the stock 60-66, so you are not going to be able to run much wider than an 8 inch. 7's all the way around would work best I think.
    I did 15x8's in rear and 7's in front but I have a '65 rear.
     
  27. wolfex1
    Joined: Feb 5, 2007
    Posts: 156

    wolfex1
    Member

    A couple more
     

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  28. zippeay
    Joined: Aug 7, 2006
    Posts: 334

    zippeay
    Member
    from Hooper, Ut

    Thanks for the info, I still have the stock 64 rear maybe I will just convert it to 5 lug and keep that rear so I can run wider wheels.
     
  29. malex:.
    Joined: Mar 9, 2009
    Posts: 58

    malex:.
    Member
    from L.A.

    i have a 63 short bed frame with air bags. im looking to get a 63 suburban can i put the truck frame under the suburban???......thanks for the help guys !!
     
  30. mikeey rat
    Joined: Aug 10, 2010
    Posts: 169

    mikeey rat
    Member
    from Australia

    hey guys .my 62 C10 is a 235 4speed The saginaw has a whine in 1 2 and 3 and I have to double clutch to get into 4th.Is there a way to tell which saginaw it is and therefore which rebuild kit to order without pulling the box out first ? Oh and who sells a decent priced kit?
     

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