Replacing brake lines... suggestions?

I'll reply with my suggestions from my limited experience because I feel some of the old hands have been doing it so long that they might take a lot for granted and miss something a rookie has recently experienced.

I bought line that has the dark green coating. I found I had the best flares when I used the wire wheel on my bench grinder to remove about an 1" of the green covering. If I didn't it acted like a lubricant and allowed the line to slip through the clamping bar. Also using the C clamp seemed to help alot. Also, I used a little brake fluild on the adapter as a lubricant.

I cut the line using a tube cuter, filed the end square and then used a hand reamer to debur the inside. This also thinned the wall slightly to allow the double flare adapter to push the outside of the tube in. After I completed both flares I blew the line out with air before installing.


Here's some good step by step pictures of the procedure. The guy is doing stainless line but it the same as mild steel lines. I've never used stainless brake lines.:

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/116_0701_stainless_steel_tubing/photo_01.html

 

Inline Tubing kits are good but are some what of a pain to install with the body on. I had some fitment issues with the kit for my '54 Ford. Overall it was ok.

Jim

 

I have bought 72 inch long straight tubing at my NAPA store. Not much money and to me it looks better the coil stuff straightened.

I have the Martercool 71475 flaring tool ... not inexpensive but I get perfect flares every time



Also a good bender makes the job go easier and look lots BETTER ...

 

And there are NAPA's everywhere in the Jacksonville area. Brake lines are cheap insurance and it's a no brainer to replace all steel and any rubber lines over 10 years old.

 

Found a company on eBay who prepares straight brake lines and fittings based on your car. You will have to do any bending and cutting and flares on one end of each pipe. Total price without shipping for my 48 chev sedan delivery was about $75.00. They were prompt and excellent to work with.

Disclaimer --- I don't know them and have nothing to do with their business.

Contact number is

Jacksons Auto Parts & MW Inc.​

6220 Grand Ave​

Duluth, MN 55807​

M-F 8:30am to 5:00pm​

------------------------------------​

(218) 624-5791​

(888) 399-7278

 

I've practiced flaring for about three hours with the loner tool and the loner is in good shape, but I'm noticing the on the initial bubble flare it's consistently crooked... I've experimented quite a bit by moving the bit around, adjusting the line length ect... I'm sure my cuts are straight/level and I have a tube cutter and de-burring tool as well as a file so the prep is done right. I'm having a hard time even getting a bubble flare, I'm wondering if it could be the tool... or it just may be user error.

 

are the inside of the flares smooth and uniform? if so they will seal fine.can you [post a picture of the flares?

 

Right on, I may look into this... but I'm having fun learning the old fashion way. If I can't get the lines perfectly flared or close to and with confidence, I'm gonna go this route... brakes are the last thing I'm gonna be "iffy" about! Thanks!

 

^^^ Good idea then you can use whats left of the old line as a pattern . Just remember to add a little length at the ends to make up for what you cut off .

 

I can make a single flare uniform and smooth no problem, which is useless... but I can't seem to get the initial bubble flare... I'm in for the night, I'll try to get some photos up within the next day or so. Thanks

 

Try this out
http://youtu.be/KaO2jAWqVU0

 

Okay... I've watched quite a few videos and have done everything exactly as directed. I noticed this morning that the cone on the forcing screw of the flaring tool is definitely slightly crooked and I can't adjust it... therefore giving me lopsided flares. I'm gonna return it o auto zone today and try to round something else up.

 

Another one for Napa. Haven't used them but noticed they also have several pre-cut lengths, flared with fittings already installed.

 

I've been practicing and practicing my flares, I got another tool... but I'm still not confident, I'm a lone ranger on this... the three mechanics I've talked too and tried to have them show me a proper double flare has been a head scratcher... I wonder about all the cars driving around with improper flares! Any rate I posted a couple of pics of a practice flare which is a bit lopsided. Do these look close to being correct, I'm getting the bubble flare and then coning down. Please critique!

 

that looks really crooked. the tool must be bent. what does it look like after it is tightened against a fitting?

 

Yes def. crooked, the cone on the forcing screw pivots just a little bit... there's a ball bearing on the inside of the cone. They've all come out somewhat crooked and determined to learn this. Second loner from autozone, prob gonna try O'reillys. Despite the lopsidedness does the flare look correct? And the second photo is what it looks like tightened up against the fitting.

 

i have had them come out a little crooked, but the inside of the flare was smooth and even and did not have any cracks or splits. the way it seals is the nut pushes the inverted flare against the cone inside the fitting as long as the "smoosh" together they will seal.

 

The flaring tool setup on the right has always gave me poor results.
I have a tool similar to the one on the left that works really well.It has the tubing dies integrated .Just spin them around to the size you need and squeeze handle.

 

I found with all the flaring tools I used the manufactures' suggest distance of the tube sticking out of the clamp was just a hair too long. I shortened the amount of tube sticking out just a very small amount and I was able to get perfect, or close to perfect double flares.

 

You have to start with a square cut, clean cut, and if your tool is sloppy its just an amplifier of the problem.
Compare your ends to the ends on the lines at the part store.

 

Could it be that the inside diameter of the tubing is not correct ? check the diameter of the double flare insert. Just a thought with all the wacky parts etc. we are getting from over seas.

 

Thank you to all that responded to my this thread as all of your suggestions and comments were very helpful. I wound up buying pre-flared lines and bent them accordingly, I also only had to go mid way up from the rear end... the lines toward the front of the car were in good shape and no leaks. It turned out a lot of my double flares would have been fine- I was trying to mimic the factory flares exactly. Bled the lines and no leaks and got her driving around the block... stoked!

 

I'm sorry to bring this back up but the app is not letting me post a new topic.. So has anyone had any luck or experience with these folks that sell the full kits on eBay? They have vehicle specific kits pre-cut with all the proper ends and everything...
The link is below.
http://bit.ly/PjLC1e


Sent from my iPhone on'at TJJ app

 

Replacing brake lines the Rusty O'Toole way.

To remove the old lines. Use side cutters or tin snips to cut the old line flush with the fitting and use a socket wrench on the fitting. Take the old line off carefully, try not to bend it any more than you can help. It will be the pattern for making the new line.

Get a 25 foot roll of brake line, the regular galvanized is fine. How long did the old ones last, 20 years? Or on the Hudson, 50 years? How long do you plan on keeping the car?

Stand the roll of brake line on the floor, step on the end and unroll the line holding it against the floor. It will unroll pretty straight. You can get it straighter by straightening it in your hands. Unroll as much as you need, plus 4 to 6 inches and cut it with your tubing cutter. You know how long to make it because you measured the old one you took off (see above).

Put the fitting on, flare one end, and tape the fitting on with masking tape. Cover the end of the line with tape, this will keep it clean.

Work your way along bending the new line to match the old one. Tape the 2 lines together as you go. When you get to the end cut off the excess put on the fitting and flare the end. Tape it as you did the first end. Now you an cut off the old line you used as a pattern.

Fit the new line, it will be pretty close but you will have to do some slight adjustments on the bends. Tweak the ends of the line with your hands so the line goes straight into the caliper or wheel cylinder, this makes it a lot easier to get the fitting started.

I use a long tapered reamer to clean the burrs out of the line before flaring it, and touch up the end with a fine file so it is dead square. I use an old flaring tool I have had since 1968. It is the old crude kind on the right in frank dog's picture. I agree there are lots better tools, but I have no trouble getting a perfect double flare as long as I am very careful and get everything exactly right. Use the mandrel as a guide to how much tube to have sticking out of the clamp. Tighten the short end of the clamp first then the other end. Use a tommy bar thru the wing nut to get it tight. Clamp the end of the clamp part in a vise to hold it while you work.

In some cases it is easier to install a long line by doing it in 2 sections. In that case be sure to buy the correct connector fitting. If you like you can buy the brake lines ready made but to make a neat job you will have to shorten some of them to the exact length. I find it easier just to make exactly what I need. If you have to use ready made lines and can't cut and flare them, you have to put a loop or bend in the line to use up the excess length.

 

Ditto, what fuzzface said.... You can get them in different lengths, to minimize waste.

Remove the old ones carefully, and use them as templates.

4TTRUK

 

Don't use a tubing cutter on stainless line, it work hardens the end and is more difficult to flare. Cut with hacksaw and file square and smooth. Read this in the instructions of a professional 37 deg. flaring tool.


Ago

 

Hell yeah.....

 

Straightening coiled line is not hard. Use a rubber mallet on a flat wooden surface and hit the high spots while rolling the line across the surface.

 

Rolling it between two sheets of plywood has worked well for me.

 

That's the stuff! Especially if you're learning to double flare. The nickel plating looks great too...