I have an original 33 Ford Deck Lid Handle. It is not in perfect condition, but I would like to restore it. A bit tight, but starting to get things moving again. Anyways, how do I get the lock out of the handle? I see a small hole next to the lock, but I'm not sure if something screws out of there or if I need to push a very small rod in there to push on something. Still cleaning it, so before I start jamming things in there, I'd like to know the correct way to remove it. I do not have the original key (hope to have one made), so hopefully that is not a problem for removal. Thanks...
I've built three 33-34 coupes, but always used a repro deck lid handle, so am interested in how you disassemble a stock one as well. Post some pics when you do the job. Good luck with the project!
Sounds good, LOL. It really does not look too bad, just want it to look mint when done. I just started screwing around with it today, since I finally got my original lock mechanism installed on my SAR deck lid. I can swivel the top of the handle lock mechanism around with a screwdriver and starting to get the stainless trim ring that wraps around the handle where it meets the deck lid to move as well. I'm "soaking" it for awhile before I get back at it.
OK, I worked on this long enough to figure out I'm not going to completely dissasemble it. I figured out there is a small pin that holds the lock assembly in the handle. I took a small punch and pushed it down into the lock assembly. I then used a plastic hammer to pound directly on the lock side of the handle and the threaded shaft side. After a bit of time, I was able to free the lock assembly from the handle. It appears that steel portion of the handle is like a "T" that connects with the threaded end of the shaft. The actuall handle consists of two parts that are wrapped around each other (the upper part of the "T"). I don't see a good way to remove these without trashing the entire handle. It was a bit crusty in there, so I used some small round files to clean out the opening for the lock assembly and then blew it all out with compressed air. I then then filled the hole with motor oil and let it get all around inside the handle to help protect it from future corrosion. My next step is to find my uncut Hurd key blanks and go to a locksmith and see if he can make a set of keys for me.
Proper way is impossible when you do not have the key...that little pin is made to push in easily when key is inserted and lock is rotated to right position, usually about 45 degrees or so off center. There is a relief to clear the pin at the right spot on cylinder. If code is stamped into the cylinder, as most are, the oldest lock guy in town can probably make a key up straight from that. The Hurd locks are pretty accurately made, unlike earlier and later Ford keys, and so are hard to pick with regular pokey lock tools or random keys from other Fords...
Thanks for the information. I did take it to a locksmith in town here today. He looked up the number on the cylinder and said he could cut a key for it. First I need to get the pin out of the cylinder that would not push in easily....LOL...and come up with a new solution for the old pin.
It can't push in easily until it has a key to turn it the required amount...there is not a perfect solution (I've seen plenty of good handles ruined by people trying hard!) but if stuck, get a Dremel with a TINY stone or diamond point and cut down pin until it allows the cylinder to come out. Remove its corpse, replace with maybe a small allen screw with head filled in with a drop of paint later and hope no one really clever wants to get into your trunk. This basic system of the pin requiring slight turn of the cylinder is good for '32-48 and I think on to about 1950.
I'll drop it off at my neighbors shop next door. He is a machinist and has plenty of tools to do the job and come up with a good solution for the pin. Thanks again for the information Bruce. Brian
That pin is spring loaded.If you drove it down with a punch it got damaged.Non repairable in my opinion.There are from time to time NOS ones(lock cyl) on EBAY.There are also 2 small parts(potmetal cam and spring clip) inside the handle along with the pawl that slides when the lock is turned.Don't lose those.To bad I didn't see this thread sooner.There is a locksmith in Iowa that can pick the Hurd locks and get them out.
It's not just spring loaded...there's no place for it to move until the cylinder is rotated to right place, which is why this is a real problem when needing to extract a cylinder with no key available. There are a bunch of different Ford trunk handle cylinders, none easy to find, and at least for some years I have encountered there is more than one type of inner potmetal widget...so finding a complete assembly and finding a way to extract the cylinder is a very good starting point...usually the number is on the cylinder, so you are on your way as soon as you get it outta there..For those with complete Fords that may be largely original...IF your car still has original locks, door cylinders take same key as ignition, glove box same as trunk, allowing you to get your keys made from the cylinders that are actually easy to extract. Last year, I was dreadfully worried because no rumble key came with my roadster and the perfect handle and cylinder did not need any hacking...suddenly it ocurred to me: This thing is the ONLY '32 I have ever had that wasn't assembled with bits from 800 different fleamarkets and want ads. The car's only key, right there in the ignition, was the right one...no door locks on the deuce. The factory had supplied me with the right key...!
Spent the evening taking the handle apart. Obvious after lubricating, cutting, pounding and disassembly that FORD built this thing to never come apart. It's in many pieces, but I'll post pics over time as I hope to slowly bring it back to its near original glory.
After dissasembly.... After preliminary cleaning.... I'll post more photos as my life allows me time to get this thing back together....
There is another small piece missing in your pics.Its the one that the diecast(left of lock cyl) cam slides into.
Not sure what to even say, LOL...this is what I got when I took it all apart. That small cam left of the lock cylinder slips down into the cylindrical portion of the handle shown above, to the right of the square shaft and then if I recall, the lock cylinder goes in after/slips into that.
That small piece I am talking about centers that cam and has a spring tab .That spring tab has an indent that pops into the hole on the side of the cam.Sort of like a detent.At least all the ones I have worked on have that piece.
I examined the parts today. At first I thought I was missing a "slinky looking" spring, but now I see what your talking about. There is another piece inside that hollow cylindrical shaft that has the small spring tab you are referring too. That small rectangular indent (shown on the shaft in the photo) appears to hold the part that holds the spring tab. Does not appear any of this is made to move, so I think I will leave it right where it is.
Yes, LOL I will either thoroughly complete this task or thoroughly throw it all in the trash. I'm in no hurry, so hopefully I will complete the task with time.
It doesn't move.It just locates and centers the diecast piece.Probably won't hurt to leave it in there .I always remove it so I can get everything clean
Ok, spent a little time on the project today with my neighbor. Got the plate that attaches to the main shaft welded back on. Cleaned it up a bit more, made sure it was straight and also put new threads back on the shaft. Also completed the welding on the backside of the handle and the handle shaped plate that fits inside the handle. Also took some time to polish the flat trim ring and preliminary polishing on the handle pieces. The collar that fits around the handle shaft had multiple cracks in it from the handle disassembly. It is made of brass or bronze, can't remember at the moment. Anyways, it's not pretty after our attempted fix, so my neighbor is going to make me a new one out of stainless so I can just polish it to a bright shine and not have to worrry about having it rechromed. Next step will be to tackle the lock mechanism or just find another one.
i believe the internal parts are the same `32 - `37. my question is how do you intend to repair the stamped stainless steel veneer? you are doing a great job so far, keep it up.
As you can see by the photos, many of the plates were cut through or had cuts in them in order to dissasemble the handle. We have made repairs to all of those except for the larger, outer (front side) stainless handle cover plate. In one of the photos you can see the cuts in the inner (back side) stainless handle cover plate. Those cuts were welded closed, buffed and then polished. The outer or front plate of the handle will be the second to last part to go back together. That plate holds all the plates to the T handle, in cooperation with the inner or back plate handle cover. The cut was made on the handle in the location shown so that the handle parts would slide off/slide back together easily. The front cover will be welded closed to hold it all together as found and then buffed and polished. The lock cylinder will get installed last.
Well, not much to do on a cold winter night, so we made the collar for the handle last night. As discussed before, the original one hand multiple cracks in it that needed repair. Well, it was not going well so we scrapped that repair idea and just made a new one out of stainless. Still have polishing on this to do yet. Also need to cut out the two small tabs that will get bent over to secure the collar to other parts of the handle.
Located and purchased another lock cylinder. The center cylinder that rotates inside the main cylinder is a bit longer than mine, but we can easily machine that back to the correct length. I can push that little pin in once I get it in the the correct position. I understand that is what holds the lock cylinder in the handle. My question now is, how do I get the key out of the cylinder? LOL.. I can turn this thing in all directions and it will not come out. Do some of the small holes on the lock cylinder need to be removed like on the old one, by a locksmith who knows which ones to remove, based on the code on the lock cylinder and associated tag with the keys?
Key should come out when its vertical(teeth up).If its still stubborn and there is a slot on the back you can drive it out easily with a small punch or tip of a key.To push the pin down the key must be horizontal with slot up.That allows the pin to go down.Once the key is turned the pin pops up.
Thanks... I'll give that a shot when I get a chance. Possibly there is a small bit of oxidation in there after all these years. I did not want to start hammering on this one!
Well, I got the key removed and yes, there was a bit of oxidation in there. Once the key was removed, we removed the center cylinder from the outer cylinder. To do this, you must take a little tool and move the pin on the outer cylinder, back far enough, so that the half-moon shim can be removed. Once removed, it will all come apart in pieces like shown in the photo. After it was all apart, we machined the center cylinder to match the length of the original cylinder. My next step will be to have the outer handle ends of both cylinders chrome plated. Once that is complete, I will drop all the parts and pieces off at the locksmith so he can put it back together correctly.
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