1926 Studebaker Big Six Hearse Project

Hello, this is my first post on the board. Looking for some advice on a new project car I recently purchased, a 1926 Studebaker Big Six hearse. I operate a tour business in the Adirondack region of New York state. One of our most popular tours is a historical ghost tour which takes our guests through local cemeteries by lantern and to other haunted locations. We eventually want to make the hearse into a rolling advertisement for our business, obviously getting noticed wherever it goes, and a tour vehicle. It's incredibly complete and original, just been neglected for the last 25 years or so and hasn't run since then. The engine is really archaic, no parts available and the bizarre power / mechanical brake system is just scary. We want to make sure and preserve the bad ass (and creepy) patina it's developed on the outside, but make it as reliable and maintenance free as we can mechanically. What would be the easiest way to do that? Put the body on a suburban or pickup chassis? Or just modify what's there? The car has a 158 inch wheelbase so roughly 13 feet. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Enjoy the picture!

 

If the frame is solid I would suggest a front clip and a new rear end.That way you will have the modern conveniences (P/s,P/B,A/C) & you wont have to worry about a new frame that fits.
If the frame is toast,then a whole new frame.

 

Don't Derelict it. Use its frame, if at all possible!

Inasmuch as Studebaker was merged with Packard, a nice large Packard V8 with automatic transmission would be true to its 'legend'...(Packard rear, also...)

 

The frame and body of the car are actually very solid. There's really only a few small areas of rot where the sheetmetal is thin but for the most part what you see is just surface rust. The frame is pretty substantial. Just read the thread on "derelicts," and definitely don't want to put a lexus motor in it or anything lol. I'm guessing the modification of the existing frame would require a lot of fabrication / cutting for a new drive train and suspension? A Packard engine would be awesome but good luck finding one. Was thinking about keeping it simple with an older small block Chevy or something like that.

 

Very cool project, but how about you tell us about yourself per the rules please.

 

Pretty much what you see above. I operate a tour company in upstate NY, have always played with antique cars and hotrods, although nothing as ambitious as this before, love vintage Cadillacs and hearses, I own a 68 Caddy and a 69 Ford pickup as well, just need some friendly advice on this project.

 

Sitting in same spot as CL ad in RI two weeks ago, which is still active. Did you actually buy it or are you just phishing?

 

Phishing? I don't really know entirely what that means, but that seems kinda crass to somebody who's posting on this board for the first time. I purchased the hearse last Saturday. I live in upstate NY as I said, about a 6 hour drive from where the car is located. I purchased it sight unseen and am planning on picking it up next weekend. The owner is an older gentleman and his assistant was in charge of the Craigslist listing so I think she forgot to pull the add. I have about two dozen photos that the owner has sent me of the car.

 

There is a very active Studebaker club, you can probably google it and find their website. This is a pretty rare vehicle, so I would vote for keeping external appearance as near stock as you can. Shouldn't be too hard to swap out drivetrain in the stock frame. Chassis Engineering sells mounts to put practically anything in anything. Given the long wheelbase, you will most likely need to use a two-piece driveshaft with a center bearing. Beam front axles are hard to beat for simplicity and durability, and they drive fine (you're not going to be going fast with it anyway) if the king pins and bushings are good and they're aligned correctly. You might want to use a beam axle from a '40s-'50s Ford or Chevy pickup for ease of getting parts and being able to use an off the shelf kit to install front disc brakes. As for the rear end, I'd go with the venerable Ford 9" for a host of reasons--durability, selection of gear ratios, they came in several different widths depending on application, one of which should be close to the width of the Stude rear end. Spring pads can be moved to sit on the stock Stude springs. That stock Stude chassis is plenty tough. Studebaker built trucks, too, and I'm betting the chassis was beefed up more than a standard car chassis and may have used some truck components because of the weight of the vehicle. I know a funeral director here in GA who owns a '30 Model A Ford hearse that is actually a AA, built on a Model AA one ton truck chassis.

 

I second the suggestion to contact the Studebaker club. It may not be as hard to get parts as you think. Depending how fast you want to go and how much you want to use it, it may be easier to keep it stock. Hearses don't get a lot of miles on them and the original running gear may be in good shape.

 

A guy not far from here got a similar big Studebaker sedan from the 20s. He decided it would be clever to put the body on a 1980s Ford pickup frame.

First problem, the engine was way too far forward. So he mounted the rad about 2 feet forward of stock position, with the hood sticking way out ahead of the fenders. Next problem the front suspension hit the fenders so he cut holes in the fenders and welded on big boxes made of steel. The front bumper wouldn't fit so he threw it away. Etc Etc Etc.

He spent the whole winter working on it and it looks like total ass. I'm embarrassed to even look at it but he thinks it's great and is real proud of all the work he did restoring the old Studebaker.

You could probably get a local garage to do a similar job for $5000. Not recommended.

Or, a good hot rod shop could destroy the originality but make it move under its own power without looking too stupid but you would have to spend some real money to do the job it right.

You might forget the whole deal and buy a hearse or limousine from the 80s or newer. Much cheaper, and comes with V8, auto, disc brakes, air, and you can get parts for it.

 

38FordPickup, thank you very much for your reply, I appreciate you sharing your ideas. We actually have already been in contact with two different Studebaker clubs and have also talked on their forum with the editor of the Antique Studebaker Review, the club's magazine. That was basically how we found out that replacement parts for the 354 cu. in. "Big Six" engine are basically scarce to non-existant. The only way to really get certain components is to buy a second or sometimes a third engine in some cases. That's information we got directly from other mid to late 20s Studebaker owners. Thankfully my father did a first rate frame off restoration on a 1930 Studebaker Dictator some years ago so we do have an old pro on board for this project.

I have spoken with a gentleman in Washington state who has a completely restored example, same year, which he uses in his funeral business along with a 39 Lasalle and a 39 Packard, all meticulously restored. I also contacted a man in Indiana who specializes in reconstructing and restoring the body woodwork utilized in much of the construction of these 1920s-30s automobiles. I'm the kinda guy that when I'm interested in something, I try to learn everything I possibly can about it.

You are correct in the fact that the Studebaker commercial chassis was heavy duty. The same chassis was also supplied by Studebaker for use as fire engines. There is actually a 26 Studebaker firetruck on the web that was restored by a department as their parade truck, although their original engine had blown up long ago and was replaced with a 1950s Chevy inline six.

This is the car we want to save, not some horrendous looking sedan from the 1980s. It deserves to be brought back. Our plans for this hearse are something along the lines of the famous 1937 White tour buses used in Yosemite and Yellowstone, basically a resto-mod. Completely stock, preserved in appearance in every way, but having modern convienience, reliability, and safety in regards to the mechanical aspects. Of which, none will be apparent from the exterior or interior. I'm not talking an Audi motor or something, something appropriate, vintage looking, something that adds to the asthetic of the car. Maybe like it was done in the 50s or something. It's easy to cobble together something that "will" work, but we want something that's quality enough to look like it could have left the factory that way. In our opinion, this beautiful coach deserves nothing less. We just need to come up with a sound plan for doing that, which is why we're here...

 

Hey, Ghost;

If you'd kinda like to keep it Stude:

How about a 245 6? Easy to get, & would pull that thing around. Could mate it to a late-model Stude 3spOD. Would look stock, although you could make speed equipment for it, including turbos/blowers, for a bit more pulling/getaway.

Or how about a 259/289 v8. Same deal w/the trans, or get an adapter that allows bolting up a chev 200/700/350/400 auto. A fair amount of new speed equipment is available for the v8's, & they take to turbo/blowers well.

Packard v8s came in 3 different flavors(320, 352, 374), & sold the smaller (320") engine to Hudson, & a couple of other mfgrs. Parts aren't that hard to get. Not much new speed equipment available, but should take to turbos/blowers well. Lots of power stock, as they hauled around ~ twice the weight of your 26, & quickly, at that. IIRC, adapters exist for the 727, & maybe the Gm autos.

Dana 44 or 60 would work for a rear end.

Front end might require a bit of work for disk brake adapters, but the bragging rights would be worth it. *Possibly*, the 63/64 Stude front disc setup might be close. 2nd choice would be using circa '77 AMC Pacer spindles + all the other associated hardware. At least 2 choices of disc brake rotor thickness, maybe 3. & these things are seriously HD. The spindles bolt on to the kingpin plate, don't know how close in dia the 26 stude compares to the AMC. If you want a dropped axle effect, a plate could be used to extend the AMC spindle up. Could be welded onto the Stude kingpin plate, or bolted. R&C did an article on this in the 70's, (using a 40 Ford).

I know you said you wanted to keep the rough paint on it, but it'd sure look nice in good paint, ditto on the interior. Stude did have some rather bright colors back then, even on the hearses.

Glad to see this one will live again.

Marcus...

 

Given the difficulty in finding parts to redo the existing engine AND your desire to maintain authenticity, there are other big 6 cylinder, in-line engines out there for which rebuild parts are still available. Hudson Hornet for example. If overhead valves don't bother you, a 300" Ford six or a 292" Chevy 6 would move that heavy beast down the road better than the original but bigger engine.. International built some really big O.H.V. sixes back in the '50s-'60s.

 

This is pretty simple; part out a 70s era Chevy 3/4 ton or 1-ton with a 292 and a straight axle - maybe an old bread truck. Swap in a 700R4 for the trans in it, run a hydroboost brake system on it, and it should be fine. And for pete's sake, use an older steering column that doesn't have an ignition switch on it so it doesn't look like crap in there.

That gives you easy parts availability while maintaining a stock look with minimal cutting and fabricating.

 

What a fantastic project! I would make the trip for the tour in this beast! I love all of the creative drivetrain suggestions, and it would be fun to keep it as 'South Bend' as possible. Make sure you can easily get replacements for whatever driveline you choose, based on your desire to press it into regular service...

 

That's too damn cool. I have always wanted a hearse, and that is aboslutely beautiful. I'm a wee bit jealous. Good Luck!

 

Sweet project,i would put a drop axle with power brakes,9 inch ford rear end and a good old small block chevy.All parts that are easy to find and reliable.

 

I have driven a 1926 big six roadster. I think you would be surprised how capable the stock engine is. A first gear hill in my A was taken in third with the big six. If you do part it out I bet my friend would be interested in the take off parts for spares for his roadster. Pm me

 

this from Studebaker Wheel (senior member) on the Studebaker Divers Club Forum website:

Something to shoot for. This vehicle was restored by Jerry Kayser of Kaysers Funeral home in Moses Lake, Washington. An extensive article on the vehicle was carried in the July/August 2007 issue of The Antique Studebaker Review. The '26 Big Six hearse was shown at the Intl meet in Cedar Rapids in 2009 and has also been shown at numerous other meets around the country. It has won just about every award for which it is qualified. It is beautifully done. If you plan to restore your hearse membership in the Antique Studebaker Club would be a very wise move.
http://www.theantiquestudebakerclub....ershippage.htm
I have lots of data on these vehicles.

http://forum.studebakerdriversclub....oject-vehicle-1926-Studebaker-hearse&p=619156

...

 

Oh No, not Another 1926 Studebaker Big Six Hearse Project...
Keep it all Studebaker for everything that can be seen. Drivetrain and everything out of sight can be all modern components, front suspension, differential, brakes, transmission.
But a Stude V-8 engine is a must! Good luck with your build, it's gonna' be cool!

 

Thanks to everyone who posted so far! Great suggestions, that's exactly the kind of constructive replies we were looking for. You've given us alot to think about and once we get our hands on the car next week, get it home, and see what we've got to work with, we can really start making a plan for the old girl. One thing we'll definitely have to address is the fact that the roof is caved in in the back. Apparently this car was used as some sort of small town Civil Defense vehicle back in the late 1940s-50s and had four massive air raid sirens up on the roof. Obviously that weakened the bows and everything and over the years it gave out and is sitting in the back of the car. Fortunately it's always been tarped and the original stuff is there to make patterns from.

Would love to keep this car all Studebaker if we can find an engine, but won't be unhappy with a Chevy either. I'll post a couple of shots of the Big Six as it sits along with a pic of the Chevy inline six that was put in the 1926 Studebaker firetruck I mentioned. That truck is up in Acton, Ontario I believe. It doesn't look the greatest, but it's an idea as to what can be done as far as an engine option. The original engine is 354 cu. inches and makes 75 horsepower. According to the previous owner it has run and he drove it within the last 10-15 years and he put oil in the cylinders before it was parked. He claims it's low mileage, which would make sense given it's use.

Rocky - Thanks for posting that pic. That's from our thread over on the Studebaker Forum about this car. They were very helpful and we're looking forward to joining the Studebaker Club. The one in the photo is owned by a gentleman who operates a funeral home up in Washington state and he actually uses it for his business. She was a real survivor that went through a frame off restoration and is now a National winner at various shows. He had alot of great technical information to share with us about this car.

 

OK if you seriously want to do this here is how I would approach it.

First the front axle and steering. Possibly Ford pickup twin I beam spindles (up to 1979) can be adapted onto your axle. They are the last vehicle with king pin type steering that might be anywhere close. This will probably require some machine work to the axle but is the easiest cheapest way to get modern disc brakes, bearings and hubs.

For the steering box. Dodge vans up to 1992 had a steering box similar to yours in that the drag link went straight to the front. Most vehicles with IFS have steering that goes across. The Dodge van had funny steering because the steering box was way in front of the front wheels.

If you can adapt the Dodge steering box you will have modern power steering.

For the engine and trans take the easy way out. Just use a Chev 350 crate motor and matching transmission. This will be easiest and cheapest and have enough power to move a fully loaded hearse as fast as you are going to go.

Rear axle, look under some 3/4 ton pickup trucks.

There would be other details, about a million of them. Such as redrilling the hubs to take the original Studebaker wheels. Please do not put modern wheels and tires on it will spoil the effect you are after. Tires are available from the antique tire specialists.

Oh yes brakes, that has already been addressed. For a master cylinder it would probably be easiest to adapt a modern power brake booster and master cylinder on a bracket under the floor to be worked by the stock brake pedal. Or if this is not practical you will have to adapt a swinging brake pedal if there is room on the firewall to locate the MS under the hood without hitting the motor.

There are some suggestions. It would not be easy or cheap and would probably take a couple of guys working full time for a year to make that beast into the kind of vehicle you want.

 

Removed the CL ad:

 

Are you sure it's a '26? The cowl looks a little bit more like a '27, the headlights also.
...

 

Rusty, Thank you very much for the info. You definitely understand the aesthetic we're after as the proper wheels / tires are a must. Don't want to imagine what it would look like sitting on, say, a set of American Racing rims.

Rocky, according to our conversations with the former owner, it's a 26. I can't confirm that 110% but he owned it 25 years so. The headlights have definitely been replaced at some point, one gentleman on the Studebaker forum said they're early 30s Studebaker or possibly Chrysler. The grille has also been modified by adding the bars you see which gives it a different look. Somewhere along the line the original radiator went poof so it was replaced with one from a Cadillac and must have prompted the modification.

Thanks to everybody who posted ideas, keep em coming! This is going to be a really fun project and I think the end result is going to be incredibly unique.

 

Here's some pics of the other side where you can see how the roof has caved in. The bows inside are made of ash and will have to be replaced. Luckily we have the originals to use as a pattern. The rear split bumper is missing so we're on the hunt for a pair of those if anyone knows of any.

 

O ya about the headlights. You can use the old headlights. Adapt the reflectors to take modern halogen bulbs and have them resilvered. This costs $$$$$ dough. Restore and polish the headlights. If the glass is good that should do it. There is supposed to be a gasket or seal between the reflector and glass. It was originally cork. A neoprene O ring should work.

Model A repro reflectors are cheaper if they will fit but your car probably had larger diameter headlights.

 

i like it , an awesome car good luck with your retrofit , it will be a to cool vehicle , i wish i had some cash what a speedster engine that stude big 6 would make

 

That's actually not a bad idea. It would make a very unique engine for a period speedster. If it turns out that we aren't going to utilize the original drive train, we likely would sell it to help underwrite the cost of the project. We'll know more when we get it home next week.