Lots of newbie questions re 40 Ford coupe

Alchemy is right. That 'Hack' was for clearance of the fuel pump on a small block Chevy. If you are going to use a SBC, which I highly recomend, just do a neat job of cleaning up the hack and boxing it in, Find another '40 with a SBC and get some measurements. I did mine without doing the fuel pump 'hack' and have always SOMEWHAT regretted it because I hate electric fuel pumps.

 

Chasis Engineering dropped axle and wishbone splitting kit for a 350TH is a wise choice and the rear twin spring kit. Thats what I used my 40 Coupe I used to have. You can do it without cutting firewall run a small distributor.

As for the helpers and haters your right. Many will try to help you with constructive criticism and help with questions. But in the same breath many will bitch no matter what you do. They wouldve done it a different way or better. As for motors put a SBC in it if you want or a flathead if you want remember its your car not theres

 

Weedetr has the front crossmember notch repair piece if you don't want to fab one.
http://www.weedetrstreetrod.com/productCat28553.ctlg

 

Nostalgia Sid can drop your I beam axle, as well as other folks, at the least one of them listed here on the HAMB. If you have a stock axle and can get it separated from the wishbone, why use anything other that what Henry Ford put there? That is if you intend to do a traditional suspension build. And, your '40 spindles can be used and retrofitted with a variety of brakes. I had a '37 Coupe with Pete & Jake's parts front and rear (thanks to Pete Eastwood's fabrication). For additional drop I had Hollywood Spring and Axle reverse the eyes on the front and rear, main springs (Posies and others offer aftermarket versions of this same technique with fresher springs). When I first built that set-up, I used the stock front brakes, and those on the 9" inch Ford I pulled from under a '57 Station Wagon in Wilmington CA. It had the big bearings. (A bonus if you go parts gathering and can find a donor car, try to find one out from under a 1957-1959 Ford station wagon, convertible, or flip-top as they came from the factory with the big-bearings --- and yes, there are other choices too numerous to mention). I was lucky, mine had a nearly new set of brake drums and shoes. At the time I didn't appreciate that as much as I did on another build when I had to buy backing plates, brake parts and drums from Currie (ouch!). My second set of front brakes on the '37 came from an F100 and were only marginally better than stockers, but at least they worked quicker. Because I drive my cars fast, brake fade was an issue. Front brake kits abound for early Ford front axles. However, only a few of them have the 5 1/2 on 5 early Ford-style spacing. At the time Super-Bell offered such a kit that used Mustang calipers. The calipers were made of unobtanium and it was a bitch finding a repair kit for the pistons. Nonetheless, I slogged on until I had it working because Eric Vaughn had already made me a set of one-off bigs-and-littles, steel rims. This was before he went 'all-aluminum'. I mention this because using Early Ford rims is a consideration for some. (Naturally enough, there are variations on this theme, with rims that look old but are new, offered in the aftermarket. They come with Late Ford, or Small Chevy bolt spacing and early caps and rings can be fitted for a Resto-Early-Look'.) Ladder bars and a stock (flipped eye) rear spring made my '37 sit and drive like it had been made for a NASCAR race track. (FYI: the same frame was used on Early Ford cars from 1936 until 1940, and on their Pickups until 1941.) I test drove my coupe on a cross-country trip from Tupelo, Mississippi to Echo Park, in L.A., and the jaunt across Texas at night was the top-speed portion of the tour. I saw my Stewart Warner speedo hand on the opposite side of the dial. 'Mmmmmmm", as Homer Simpson would say. My only complaint about the ladder bar/straight front axle set-up is that the car feels like it's rocking, at speed, that is probably because of the slope and rise on concrete freeways as the result of settling when they are poured. Asphalt is a different matter, and if it is in good repair lying in a hammock under a couple of shade trees couldn't be any smoother. Parallel leaf spring kits abound, if you decide to go that route. My favorite, is called In-D'-Dirt and the front of each spring attaches to the inside of the frame rails and tucks the springs further up inside, so that the center of gravity can lowered even further as you lower the weight of car nearer the ground. BUT, if I were going to build a '40 Coupe, today, knowing what I know now, I would follow the suggestion of using Corvette suspension front (and rear). I've looked into that idea, more than once, studied the obstacles, and when you consider the prices of some of the aftermarket parts to build so-called traditional suspension, it is very possible for a savvy shopper to buy 'Vette parts for about the same money. This last suggestion is, of course, if you feel up to building a '40 sporty-car, and can deal with all the fabrication blues that go with non-off-the-shelf thinking. Just add generous portions of GM's Gen III motor, a six speed, along with the donor suspension and remember to be polite as you show others your keester and then disappear. And, brother, no matter how you build a Forty, as long as you build it to drive, who's to complain? After all it's your ride and your pride. What can be better than that? Carl Orr

 

Damn '40 Ford first project. My first project was a '59 Reilly.

I am not a street rodder so you should probably take my advice with a grain of salt, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the 40 front end. Try getting it up in shape or even get a dropepd axle and get it up in shape and drive it before you decide that you need a late model front suspension.

If you get it together correctly and drive it you will be ruint, and maybe even develope a genuine affection for all things obsolete.

Yes if you are going to place the engine correctly you are going to have to modify the firewall. But you can get a firewall already contoured for the engine from a street rod company. I don't think it is necessary mysel;f. just hang out and read a bit you will find everything you need to properly build you 40 by yourself.

BTW welcome, don't be afraid to ask questions. but don;t be offended if one of us trys to get you to build a more traditional ride than your standard modern street rod. It is our nature and you can do it a different way if you so choose.

 

You have plenty to do with body and floors already. Stick with the orig front transverse stuff to speed up the build. If you get to know some of the guys here during your build thread, I am sure someone will have a donor chunk of the cut front crossmember for you. Blending that piece in, will be easy, and strong.

 

An SBC in a Forty is not a sin it is called a hot rod. Granted if you were building a '40s style car it would have been a sin but by '55 it was an accepted norm, along with hemis, and olds and caddy transplants. If flamed Abone had built a '40 way back when it would have gotten a little poncho.

I think a small journal SBC would be the bomb in a '40 but I don't draw a line there, the large journal blocks are still the same basic engine with a different crank. I would probably draw a lin at an LS, they still call them an SBC but they are a totally different creature.


I am not against late model engines and etc. I am just enamored with the obsolete. Ther is nothing that sounds or feels like and older car set up correctly with the old stuff. Has nothing to do with the rules for me, I simply don't care much about the rules. I just like the feel of and sound of an older car set up properly.

 

these fellas know whats up, but alot of haters for sbc's around. personally i love em. That being said i think you'll be safe as long as u don't drop in a 350.

 

First of all welcome to the HAMB and second you picked a nice car for your first build. My 40 I used chassis engineering MII suspension as it was part of the project I bought. I used their parrell leaf rear kit to attach a 70 ford torino 9 inch which fit the 40 width very well. As the others have said your car do it your way, it is your money and your labor.

 

I have a Kugel front end in my coupe and a dropped axle in my pickup. For the money, I haven't seen that much difference. The beam axle works great when they are set up properly. No need to modify the firewall to put an SBC in it. I think they must have used a '40 for the development of the SBC, that's how well it fits.

 

Would a stroked large journal 327 be OK?

 

A buddy's dad has been building cars, trucks, and tractors since way back in the day. He still has a '32 ford he built himself in the late 70's - early 80's that he calls a street rod for some reason or another. I wonder when street rods became about $$

 

Welcome to the HAMB. Keep asking questions just make sure you have a fire extinguisher handy. Some guys love to flame you no matter what you want to do. Great car for your first hotrod. Good Luck!

 

Count me as another recommendation for an I Beam and CE parts. You can see how my '40 went together here:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80030&showall=1

 

X's 2

 

You would be presently surprised how well a close to stock 40 runs and drives. There’s absolutely no need to try and turn another one into a late model.
Keep it simple and see if you agree ……. You can always make changes later

 

Welcome to the H.A.M.B. If I had a nickel for every half hour I sat here reading...

Congrats on the '40! They top my wish list- Pickup, Coupe or Two Door Sedan; gotta love 'em. Prettiest car ever built, like the guy said.

Anyways- enjoy yourself here. Merry Christmas!

 

Another '40 lover...............congrats! I am another believer in a beam axle in these cars. Unless you are into drifting or serious road racing, your ol buggy suspension will get you down the road without many problems. They're simple, rugged, and easy to fix. Don't ride that bad either. No need to hack the firewall for a SBC, use a small distributor, and a short waterpump and you're good to go. I have a Hurst front motor mount in mine, and use a electric fuel pump so I don't have any clearance problem with the mech. fuel pump.

 

As long as you don't mess with bodywork you really can't go wrong. My coupe has a TCI frame, smeding 391, C6 tranny. IMHO TIMELESS. The converty is pretty much stock. Either way, or somewhere in between, SBC,SBF, or flattie, leave the body alone and you will have a great car.

 

Welcome to the H.A.M.B. You have received enough recommendations to make your head swim. I am another vote for the original beam axle. Have the original axle dropped and rebuild the springs and you have the right stance and a good ride. 10,000 miles on mine and no regrets.

 

I actually cut out a mustang II from the frame I used in my `40; It takes a little longer when you have to splice the X member while doing the side rails at the same time. I put back a stock `40 front end and used a GM525 steering gear box...sbc 327.

It ran a 13.37 et / 104.34 mph at the HAMB Drags last summer; and drove straight down the track...

good luck!

Tom T

 

I'm going to throw this out there, maybe someone will remember, theres a HAMBer that is using AD pickup rear hangers to install parallel rear springs on 35-40 frames, someone showed me and I forgot who it was. It was a nice setup..........anyboby remember.

 

Stock flat head in mine with a Mitchel over drive 65 70 all day long

 

Someone wrote here :
-"street rods are for people with alot of money and let other people built them" . (street rods = SBC, IFS etc....)

Wrong! These days, people with a lot of money built with flatheads, hemis, caddys etc engines and a lot of them let Hot Rod Shops do it for big bucks.

Poor mans Hot Rod runs Sbc because you still found them in scrap yards for almost nothing.

I love Flatheads in Hot Rods but my valet don´t

Ps. Nice choice of car.

 

Speedway motors used to sell their parallell rear spring kit without the springs...their kit included instructions to use dodge D100 front springs...I don`t remember exactly but about 1964 up to 1967 years fit. The D100 springs were equal distance from the center bolt...They could be mounted either frontwards or backwards...did that make any sense?

Tom T

 

Tom I think thats the same spring thats used with the Chassis Engineering kit. Wish i could remember who had the thread on the old chevy P.U. hangers.....it looked factory and was a neat instalation and I don't think you had to run lowering blocks to get the rear end down.
Bruce

 

Found it mj40's....low buck rear end for 40's

 

Congrats on getting a '40 Ford coupe, the only vehicle I've never had that I still hope to purchase some day. I hope you have a lot of fun with it!

 

Very nice find and at a decent price! I built my first '40, A pickup, a couple years ago. Never built a "hot rod" before. I wanted mine to ride and drive like a modern car/truck so a Bolt in Chassis Eng. Mustang II kit fit the bill. No welder needed! Out back went with a wedetr rear suspension. Only minimal welding to make it work! Best rear end is a 57-59 Ford 9" out of a Fairlane. perfect width! On the engine trans, found a good running 302/C4 in a 77 Lincoln, Chassis Eng has all the mounts to bolt it right in. I did have a resessed firewall but it didnt hurt floor space one bit. After it was done, it sat right, drove right, got good mileage on the road and looked bitchin. What ever you do ASK for help if you dont know so you dont have to redo! And talk to guys who really know, like the guys on here! Good luck!

 

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View attachment 09-05-10_132 (1).jpg There is not much left to this 40 .. I had really big hopes for it . Well Im not that good at this making a car . because thats what you will have to do with this one , Id say the 2 doors and front fenders are the only thing that would be worth saving ,, the frame dose not even fit the car . The car is just setting on it , there is no bottom in it either , So Im going to sell the doors and fenders . Anyone close by that has a 40 , I would love for you to get a chance at them . Ive got no idea what they are worth . I have taken the rear-end out , and put it under my pick-up ,, Any one in need of doors or front fenders that could come and (eyeball) them I would make them a good deal on them .(Open to price suggestions ) Max$ - Min$ ?