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1951 F1 frame mods

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Boom48, Feb 4, 2012.

  1. Boom48
    Joined: Jul 17, 2011
    Posts: 45

    Boom48
    Member

    So I bought a 1951 F1 Ford. I want it to sit low but not slammed, I am probably going to be purchasing a mustang II front end from my friends Truck. I would also like to Do a 4 link suspension in the back end. Also I have a ford 9 inch from a 1968 ford truck. Am I gonna run into issues with it being to wide for my frame? is it easier to find a narrower rear end and put it under there or is it easier to get it narrowed? One more thing what 4 link suspensions kits do you guys recommend and from where? This is how the truck sits now- and the bottom picture is where I'd like it to be when im done. Thanks for all your help! I truly appreciate it.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. 51ChevPU
    Joined: Jan 27, 2006
    Posts: 1,076

    51ChevPU
    Member
    from Arizona

    Check out the threads using a mid eighties jaguar IFS
     
  3. Boom48
    Joined: Jul 17, 2011
    Posts: 45

    Boom48
    Member

    got the links and i dont really want to know about front suspension... i want to know about 4 link rear suspension and suspension kits. Which ones are good which ones are bad where to go and if its cheaper and easier to do it yourself or buy a kit.
     
  4. 55chevr
    Joined: Jul 12, 2008
    Posts: 985

    55chevr
    Member

    tough to beat a Heidt's M2 front end ... I have one in the 40 ford and it installs quick and easy ... safe steering with safe brakes is the way to go with a driver
     

  5. FrozenMerc
    Joined: Sep 4, 2009
    Posts: 3,103

    FrozenMerc
    Member

    Here is how my '51 sits with a MII up front and leaf spring rear. The rear axle is a Dana 44 out of a late 60's International Scout (posi and bullet proof). It is almost too narrow as I have to run wheel adaptors to keep the tires from rubbing on the box. Your '68 nine inch should be real close to the same width, perhaps a bit wider. Measure it and find out. The rear suspension is the stock leaf springs with all but 3 leafs removed. It rides fine, but the cargo capacity is limited to a few hundred pounds before it starts smacking the bump stops.

    [​IMG]

    Good Luck on your build.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2012
  6. 45Shooter
    Joined: Feb 27, 2006
    Posts: 112

    45Shooter
    Member

    Rear from a truck is too wide, 67 to 70 Mustang is perfect, plus you'll get the car lug pattern to match the MII stuff.
     
  7. Boom48
    Joined: Jul 17, 2011
    Posts: 45

    Boom48
    Member

    so none of you have done a 4 link rear? Also i will try to find a 9 inch from a mustang today or very soon
     
  8. 45Shooter
    Joined: Feb 27, 2006
    Posts: 112

    45Shooter
    Member

    Sitting that low with a nine inch you will need to raise the bed floor a bit for clearance. The 8 incher in mine has about 3 inches before contact with the bed floor. I wish I had raised it a couple of inches.

    Really want to put a four link in mine...someday.
     
  9. Boom48
    Joined: Jul 17, 2011
    Posts: 45

    Boom48
    Member

    so the front end plan with my freinds 56 f100 fell through wheres the best place to buy a mustang II front end? which ones the best for the money? and are they all like 2gs? complete? cause i mean damn... lol
     
  10. mastergun1980
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 1,094

    mastergun1980
    Member
    from Alva OK

    If you wanna go old school I have a 3" dropped axle. Add a set of 3" drop springs and it'll be pretty low. You could acheive the rear end via an axle flip. You might need to notch the rear frame but this is how I would go about it.
     
  11. mastergun1980
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 1,094

    mastergun1980
    Member
    from Alva OK

    Oh and the 9" out of a 60 or so unibody truck is pretty narrow and still 5.5 on 5 .
     
  12. gearhead1952
    Joined: Dec 17, 2006
    Posts: 308

    gearhead1952
    Member

    The 9 inch from a 57-72 F100 will be the same width as the stock rear and the spring pads will be in the same location as stock. Easiest way to go. I have a 60 unit in my 52 as it has the smooth rear versus the later 60s where they have the bump. I also installed the front and rear springs from Posies. The front spring is two leaves and one reverse eye for about a 1-2 inch drop and the rear has several leafs (maybe same number as stock) and also gives the same amount of drop. Going with a 9 inch will raise the rear as it has a 3 inch axle housing compared to the smaller stock unit. Posies also has springs that will lower it further but I am happy with mine.
     
  13. havi
    Joined: Dec 30, 2008
    Posts: 1,876

    havi
    Member

    That black F1 is on a Corvette C4 frame (boxed), and has shockwaves installed. Any way you look at it, to get it that low, it's not gonna be cheap. (fenders are modded to make it lower, too)

    The F1 frame has 32" outside to outside in the front, and 34" outside to outside at the rear.... which is pretty standard for many years, so too wide is not an issue for the 4 link. I didn't do it with mine, I went the same route as gearhead1952. I have too many potholes to be driving any lower, lol.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2012
  14. Mr. Clean
    Joined: Jun 21, 2006
    Posts: 89

    Mr. Clean
    Member

    Here's mine in the mock-up stage after the chassis was finished. The triangulated 4-bar came from Air Ride Technologies. The M-II frontend is Fatman's with dropped spindles and set up for air bags. The rear end is a narrowed truck 9 inch with a posi, also set up for bags. The frame has been kicked up slightly, maybe 4 inches to allow a little more room over the axle.
     

    Attached Files:

  15. Mark in Japan
    Joined: Jun 19, 2007
    Posts: 1,466

    Mark in Japan
    Member

    If you want 'budget' & effective,

    Jag IFS front (almost a bolt-in, and rides great)

    Diff flip over leaves (every second one removed) with C-Notch/bed floor raise for clearance.

    I think if you start with a realistic aim (eg, 4 inches off the ground all around) then spec everything off that, it doesn't need to be too expensive.
     
  16. Boom48
    Joined: Jul 17, 2011
    Posts: 45

    Boom48
    Member

    I am going to start looking at mustang 2 front suspensions here soon, I dont want a solid front axle because i dont want to get my ass kicked the whole time driving down the raod. I also didnt think my 9 inch rear end I have from a 68 ford f100 would be an issue. I really want to c notch the rear and go 4 link. I dont want to do an axle flip or take leafs out. Im aware I might have to raise the bed floor thats fine. I just want to make a low clean truck and have it ride nice. I am aware that I am going to have to spend some money and that's fine.
     
  17. Flamin'
    Joined: Jan 12, 2004
    Posts: 94

    Flamin'
    Member

    I put a Chassis Engineering MII front end under my truck. It sits just like FrozenMerc's, possibly an inch or so lower. It would sit that black truck with a set of dropped spindles. You might want to contact novatattoo (Bill), his F1 he built a few years back sat just like the black truck in the photo...

    Couldn't get the pic to post (using my phone), here's a link:
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=259&pictureid=1636
     
  18. Boom48
    Joined: Jul 17, 2011
    Posts: 45

    Boom48
    Member


    how much did your front end cost? and whatd you do in the rear?
     
  19. tisdelski
    Joined: Jul 19, 2005
    Posts: 260

    tisdelski
    Member

    I`m running a mark vii 8.8 with the stock 4 link and it fits perfect.

    Gary
     
  20. Boom48
    Joined: Jul 17, 2011
    Posts: 45

    Boom48
    Member

    mark vi 8.8? what is that? hahahaha
     
  21. the nine inch you have will nearly bolt-in and is stock width



    the easiest on the rear is a notch and flip the rear = 5" drop
    take out a few spring leafs = 1-1/2"
    still not low enough
    move the leaf spring perches 2" up on the frame
    still more?
    flip the rear shackles =2"
     

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