Did the '56 have an auto or manual trans? I've got a '54, and plan on using a GM truck trailing arm rear suspension, mainly so I can put an overdrive trans and some better rear gears in the thing. 3.90s on a driver suck without OD. I'd like to go 3.23 or maybe 3.55 with OD. -Brad
I used a Ford 8" in my Buick Wagon. I cut the brackets off the old rear end including the panhard bar and the used a four link setup to keep things aligned. My 8" rear end was the perfect width, I"m running 1 1/4" thick adapters on the rear end to go from 4.5 to my 5x5 Wheels, and it still keeps them tucked inside the wheel well. It runs 3.55 gears behind my adapted 700r4 OD trans. Engine is the stock 322" Nailhead motor. Good Luck on your project.
Buikwag thanks for the advice! The car is an automatic transmission. Everything behind the motor will be available cheap.
Diggin that red/black tutone bro, love those rare tu-door posts. My brother has a black 56 tu-door post that we are working on come spring. Best of luck on your build. ~sololobo~
im doing the same thing right now i started the 4link today i went with a 9in i was looking at 10 bolts but they are a bit 2 long and that 425 has crazy torque .. also you are going 2 need 57-61 exauast manaful for the drivers side 2 clear the big steering box the stock ones dont line up 2 the 425 and the 62-65 ones are right in the way
Pic reminds me to find a 3 bolt oil filter unit so I don't have to deal with the canister filters. Good luck Sbin, can't wait to see what you find on the tear down
Thank god for youtube. Was trying to tear down the 425 wife was adding to the honeydo list and crabbing about the "the ugly old rusty car I wasted money on" Put some videos of old Buicks on and after about 30 minutes she changed her tune and was asking how long till it was ready and making suggestions on color combinations. Was able to get the motor torn down today.Not as good as I would like but definitely buildable. The motor had water in a couple cylinders and will probably need bored. Will strip the heads and drop the block, crank and heads at the machine shop.
Awesome, cant wait to see it come together. Would look great as a clean late 50s mild custom IMO, hefty lowering, meduim whites, some sort of custom hub cap, etc.. whats your plan?
Dropped the block and crank at the machine shop today.Spent a few hours standing around bullshiting with some old motorheads and the owner. Lots if cool stuff there everything from flatheads to a stroker crank for a +600 inch big block chevy drag motor. Hanging around a machine shop is a good way to spend a few hours on a snowy winter Saturday morning. The Nailhead crank is forged it will get straightened, ground and balanced.The block will be burned in an oven then hot tanked bored cam bearings and plugs installed. Tore down the heads will be cleaning up the ports with a die grinder today. Will post some pictures later.
Metal Crankshaft Grinding is a great shop! The owner has been doing this since he got back from Vietnam in the 60's Really fortunate to have a guy like Pat to bring old American steel back to spec! Time to find a cam and get to work on the sp400 transmission.
I miss my '56 Special I had. Ran great, very smooth. Fixed the gas pedal start valve in the carburetor, I thought that was the neatest thing! I ran the original nailhead and closed rear end.
Sounds like a cool project. My dad and I are building a 56 buick hardtop. We subframed it with a 64 Riviera front clip and kept our nicely running 322. We also used the rear end out of the Riv which fit perfect.
Got a lead on a 64 Riviera rearend will see how that works out. Finally dragged the car home yesterday.Last time a registration was purchased Jimmy Carter was president and it expired in the first few months of Reagan's term. Unloaded it on the street and got a few guys to help push it into the drive. Got a good running start and a brake line failed almost took out a neighbors car but made it up the drive in one piece.
No luck on the Riviera rear end but found a Ford 9" rear end with disk brake setup. Will need to rebuild and change the gears to something like 3.50. Want the car to be able to get off the line but still be usable at highway speed. Anyone use an Eaton trueloc setup? Will be running around 500 foot pounds of torque and between 370 - 400 hp and do not think the factory limited slip clutch packs will hold up.
Beat me to the trailing arm suspension suggestion. If I ever change out the closed driveline on my 58 roadie, I am going to check into this method. I have some pics from a co-worker's 64 Chevy truck with trailing arm. It looks like it would work well. Also looking into C4 to Nailhead and to torque tube driveline using DF bell and tail housings. Would be nice to keep the closed driveline.
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