i am thinking of moving the rear wheel openings forward about 6" on my 36 plymouth coupe. i dont do photo shop yet,so i was playin with the scissors and tape again.these are photos of someone else's coupe. hope they dont mind me using them for illistration .1st is stock and 2nd is modified. wheel base will be shortened to @ 106". let me know what you think. thanks
it looks ok, but i think there is too much overhang in the rear. i like your photoshop program, i use the same one!!
Might I ask what impulse has led you to consider moving the rear fenders forwards? It goes to understanding what you're hoping to achieve. One possible aim might be to get the A-pillars closer to the middle of the wheelbase in order to give the car the sort of aristocratic, rakish proportions we see on upmarket cars of the '20s and '30s. In that case, moving the rear fenders alone would have the undesirable side effect of shortening the wheelbase visually as well as physically, leading to a short, stubby appearance. To compensate for this the car would have to be sectioned as well - but I submit that the combination could have an extremely appealing result. There are, however, problems with simply moving the rear fenders forwards. Firstly the curve of the stock fender relates to the curve of the deck area, and upsetting their relationship would give an uncomfortable look. Specifically the rear of the body would become a clumsy protuberance. To fix that would require a lot of work to flatten out the deck curve and extend and flatten the fender curve. Secondly the fender-to-body interface is neither flat nor parallel to the one on the other side. If you simply slide the fenders forwards along the curve of the body they would end up pigeon-toed, and the rear wheels would look like they are running toe-out. So, moving the fenders forwards is almost as much work as reconstructing the entire body. On the other hand, shortening the body might just be a much simpler operation. Take out a slice behind the rear window, stepping to a slice behind the trailing door cut line. If you still want the longer rear overhang you could extend the fenders and body as is done on customs from time to time. I think you might just have something here: shorten and section, then extend the fenders and rear body. You would effectively have a smaller car, but if done right quite elegantly purposeful; what the Stanley twins called a "gentleman's speedy carriage". Here's a very rough Photoshop of a stocker, not lowered or anything other than shortened and sectioned:
thanks for a real photo shop view. that looks better to me.can you do one with a 3" chop, mine already is.thanks for the input, we are seeing the same lines/issues and it helps to have another set of eyes on it.
for quick answers, yes , im going to build my own chassis. if i go fenderless i will bob the rear valance, i would move the opening up as well as forward. if i run fenders i would strech the fenders. thanks
Sorry, that was 15 minutes. A chop, lowering, wheels, etc. would start taking actual time! Try printing my Photoshop and tracing/sketching on some tracing paper. That'll allow you to try a lot of options quickly and cheaply.
thanks Dawie, i appreciate you efforts and time, your first rendering is close and gives the result i was looking for. thanks again ,John
Come to think of it, the shortened rear deck so close to the chopped top might throw up weirder curves than the Photoshopped image might suggest; arguing for smoothing the whole lot out with a single-curve roof/deck like the GM Fleetline bodies or, better still, the Thrupp & Maberley "Airline" coachwork of the mid-'30s:
i relly dig the fenders on this one, but i still want to keep it a coupe, for the above look i would probably start with a sedan, thanks
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