I needed an old for hub for for a display but didn't need the weight of a rusty old drum so I thought that this would be good for a quickie tech on how to separate hubs and drums on a pre 1948 Ford with swedged studs. By now you should know that the studs on any old Ford are swedged on, meaning that the outer edge of the stud shank is mushroomed out to hold the stud in place and keep it from spinning when tightened, not pressed in with serrations like a new car. If you think that you just blast them out with a big hammer, that's wrong, you run the risk of cracking or bending the hub flange as well as stretching the opening up so large that you cannot reinstall a replacement stock stud. Now you can purchase a swedge cutting tool but they are expensive so with low buck ingenuity you can achieve the same results using a cheapo 5/8" hole saw from the hardware store. The 5/8 ID just fits over the 1/2" stud. Using a good 1/2" chuck vari speed drill, secure the hole saw , slide the saw over the stud and with the drill on slow speed just lower the circle saw down to bore down about 1/8" of the stud shank. This should be sufficient to cut thru the swedge expansion and then allow you to hit the stud with a hammer and it should pop right out. The studs are junked but the hole isn't damaged and you can used new studs, tack the heads to hold them in place or use new serrated late model style studs. Note if you use new style studs it is difficult to find then with the same shank size , if you need to use a slightly larger stud , you should enlarge the stud hole with a reamer not a drill to insure that it is correctly centered. Here are some pictures to give you an idea of how this works.
Nice tech Are you coming to Dearborn this year? Im the one who sold you the Merc woodie door's last year
great tech, I did that exact thing a few months ago and it worked great now I wish someone would make a direct replacement stud that presses in
Anyone know what part number or application stud can be used to replace worn out studs that are removed?
As far as I can tell there is no exact replacement the ones the resto houses sell that are sopposedly swedge ins are pretty loose in the hole. I did as Dick suggested and just Tigged them on the back side to hold them in place which seems to work fine. I took a dial caliper and searched thru a huge bin of dorman studs but was unable to find any that would work without drilling the hole bigger to match the serrated part of the stud. If anybody knows of a better way or has a working part number Im all ears
I just did this for the rear of my modelA. I used the original swedge style replacements. A local shop swedged them but I'm not sure how well. oh well, I'll just hope for the best.
It takes a swedging die for an industrial press. It should be pressed to 30,000. The guy that did mine got nervous at 20,000 and pressed them at 23,000. So no home method I am aware of.
30,000? That seems a bit much. I would think 15 tons of pressure on a bolt would mash it into a coin. We used to have rivet guns at work and they were only 3500 pounds and the would mash the shit out of anything you put between the dies.
I was just telling you what the instructions said in the "Berts Model A Center" Catalog (where I bought the studs and swedging tool from). The studs wanted to get stuck in the swedging tool. Later I saw someone use a pickle fork on the swedging tool to get it off the stud. Ya, 30,000lbs is a lot of pressure; that's why the guy helping me got scared. Another hard part was holding the pieces together to get the first one swedged.
I've never had to do this...I stashed quite a heap of good drums before the market went mad...but lots of people have confirmed the insane pressure required for stock fitting. As a hunting guide for new studs, since you can't count on finding counter clerks with any aptitude for problem solving, here is a starting page for Dorman...go to wheel hardware and keep going to get to dimensional chart: http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/2006_hardware.htm Then find someone with a '28-48 Ford catalog, which gives dimensions for the various originals...you are not going to get a direct hit, of course, AND when adapting you will be looking for extra diameter at press fit area and a bit of extra length to compensate for replacement drums...so take the original spec that matches what you just extracted, add in needed serration area that modern stud will use instead of swedging, add in any length needed for a heavy cast center in drum...go to Dorman and start comparing. And post your results! There is an endless need for Ford brake parts numbers on here! I'll need your info for when I discover all my good drums have been eaten by weevils, too...
Bruce you should save me some foot work and sell me a drum! I will send you my old one and you can "experiment" with wheel studs.
How would you do studs with inside hubs? same way? thinking it would take to much of drum material away. need to do mine and don't want to mess up.
I just wanted to replace the drums without replacing the hubs, so I removed the studs from 6 drums/hubs last week. I made a tubing spacer to support the drum from the inside, then using a 10 ton press, just pressed them out. You get a real loud bang when they break loose, but all of them came out without any damage to the hubs or drums. After searching for 2 days, I couldn't find any replacement studs the right diameter, so after putting the new drums on, I re-used some of the studs I had removed. TIG'ed them in place. It's all good now.
thanks dick,,,,been looking for something cheaper that the swedge cutter for about $100 after shipping,ect..........got lots of drums/hubs to fix.......kev
Have just replaced the drums on my RP yes the pressure required is extreme and yes cutting the shoulder off the old studs is the way to go. If you are using new cast iron drums be very careful I have bent spoke Kelseys and have had real trouble fitting them over the drums make sure they can bed right down.