One more 41-48 chevy 216 driveline question

Okay one more question:
I'm converting my '46 fleetline to an open driveline, I've got the nova axle in.
I've got a 1956 chevy car bellhousing and 3 speed, I know it will bolt up-I've got to make some side mounts, linkages etc., but...........

Do I need to change the original clutch or anything else? (1946-216)
thanks

 

10" clutch set maybe?

 

pilot bearing?

 

If the '56 bell housing is from a 235 it will bolt to the 216. Starter Issues????? Clutch disc probably has the same spline, should work..

 

I changed all of these out to open drive lines and another rear axle and unless I changed to another transmission did I ever have to do anything in front of the Bell Housing. Maybe a larger diameter clutch, pressure plate and pilot bushing but I did have to reconfigure the parking brake setups and also do some spring modifications.
Normbc9

 

You can reuse your clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, fork, thowout bearing and starter.

pilot bushing is fine, but you might want to put in a new one since you are in there anyway.

You can also run a 6 volt starter on 12 volts, should you decide to upgrade.

 

For you guys suggesting a larger clutch......the stock '46 flywheel won't accept a 10 inch clutch. You're stuck with the 9 1/8 inch setup unless you change the flywheel.

 

Look into the 1957 truck bell housing, I use them for V8 conversions using a hurst front mount they have good side mounts on the bell. The 235 six bell housing might be the same.

 

Okay, great, will the 1956 (bigger disc pattern 10") flywheel bolt to the 216(I would think so)?
Should I go ahead and do that while I'm at it, I'm buying a new clutch/turning flywheel anyway right??

 

Yes, it will. Just be sure to use the corresponding starter with it---you can't cross 6V flywheels/starters with 12V.

 

235 bellhousings are nothing like the V8 ones. The 216/236/261 engine familly doesn't have the same bolt pattern as the V8.

 

a 9 1/8" clutch is fine for this application.

As for finding a larger clutch and staying with a 6 volt starter, you would want to look for a flywheel from a 3/4 ton or larger truck from 1954 or older. I personnally wouldn't try to run the old 9 bolt 11" pressure plates as they are difficult to find, and the ones I've seen aren't rebuilt correctly. They rattle whe you push the clutch in because they don't put in anything to keep the pressure ring from floating when the pressure is taken off of it. Maybe they are better nowadays, but I'd still pass on it in favor of upgrading to the 12 volt era 11" setup. Much better pressure plate.

 

1954 passenger car flywheels used a 10 inch clutch and are compatible with the early 6 volt starters.

 

Okay, now I will admit I am a totally confused dumbass, I have no idea what I am doing when it comes to those linkages on the 3-speeds. I've got them both out and I have no idea what lever does what, the long lever is in different places('46 vs. '57). I thought I would just need to lengthen/ shorten re-configure the rods??? I guess I may need to change the shift mechanism on the column after all, and figure out what goes where???? please help! I need a diagram or pictures or something.

 

Is the '46 vacuum shift?

Does the shift mechanism on the column have one or two arms?

 

The 46 column shift mechanism has 2 levers. I was told I'd have to switch to a 49-54 column mechanism which will clamp on(after cutting the 46-just the shift part), but then I was told I'd just have to make some rods, so I thought I would try? I guess the 49-54 mechanism operates the same as the 55-64 but the 46-48 does not? The arms on the transmissions are very different looking and I'm not sure how they operate anyway.

I have built dozens of cars but as you can tell this is my first time trying to keep one manual. I am so tempted to give up and drop in the 250/th350 combo I've got looking at me, but I know it would be a slug/uncool?? The 216 is rebuilt ,original and runs perfectly, so I'm trying to keep it in and manual.

 

I want to keep the column appearing original.

 

Oh and not vacuum shift.

 

That's all you need to know. Will work perfectly.Your worries are over and when you upgrade to a 235 or 261, nothing else need change. Engine mountings in some case perhaps. How do I know ??????? cause I have done it
What the f do you want a bigger clutch for ? your'e only runing a 216 for Christs sake.
Who put that thought in your head??????
Good motoring
Rod

 

if you have two arms and an "H" shift pattern (typical 3spd), I don't know why you would need to change the column mechanism??

You will need to determine if the arms on the trans need to point up or down, and you may need to change the length/design of the arms on the column, and make/modify the shift rods, but that should be all you need to do I would expect...



A 250/TH350 combo is going to be waaaaay better than any stovebolt as far as durability and HP goes, but the older stovebolts are better looking engines. Do what you want, it's your car....

Automatics are for pussies. Just sayin'....

 

Do you have a wire feed welder and a hand grinder with a cutoff wheel on it?

With that '57 3spd, I would think that you would want the arms of your shift mechanism need to be the same length. They are on my '53 at least. Use a '49-up car for reference on how long to make the arms. Offhand, I don't know what length mine are. They don't necessarily need to be the same, but it will affect the amount of throw required to make a shift.

 

I don't know about the uncool part of a 250/350 combo, but I do know it won't turn your Fleetline into a slug. It sure works good in mine.

 

Those sixes just sound so good with split duals and manual shifting, by "slug" I just meant the way an automatic/6 sounds as it shifts I guess, like I said I've usually gone the easy route of an automatic, and I may eventually, just trying to keep the original/rebuilt 216/manual because the car is so "cherry" untouched.( i did notch the rear when I put in the new rear end)
I will check my column again to see if I can make it work.

 

Well after much experimenting I found that the column shift mechanism on the '46 is different than the 49-54(and 55-up). The levers on the 48 back 3 speed transmissions operate a little differently. I need to clamp(requires cutting mine) that 49-54 mechanism to my column if I want to keep it original column(I was told this in another thread). I think 49-64 3 speed trans levers do the same thing(one is 1-r and one is 2-3)-48 back the front lever makes the back lever switch between 1-R and 2-3.

 

I was at a salvage yard today, and after looking at a '47, I'd look into swapping it all out for a setup from a '49-54 car or truck. You won't need to change the column, just the shift mechanism.

 

I'm getting a three speed truck mechanism that unclamps, from a friend, I hope it is the same as a car mechanism?

 

don't know if they are identical, but it shouldn't matter, just as long as you know what it's from in case you need to get parts for it.

 

I have a 2 projects cars, A 41 and a 50 , if you need some pictures or measurements of anything let me know. I also have some drive train parts from a 50's truck with a torque tube trans and column and shifter, but I don't know if its all original.

 

You will probably have to do something with the leaf springs. I put 3" drop springs from St. Louis Spring in my 41 Chevy Coupe and had to move the front spring mounts back about 1.5" I believe. (Couldn't move back any further because they were snugged up next to emergency brake cable holder mounted to frame. Axle line right in the middle of wheel well. (Axle out of 55 oldsmobile.)

If you use stock springs, the axle sits forward in the wheel well and looks funny....IMO.

 

You don't have to change the springs, you just drill a hole farther forward on the axle perch.