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Help Build my 327 Chevy Small Block!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by timmy25252, Jan 3, 2012.

  1. timmy25252
    Joined: Sep 15, 2007
    Posts: 315

    timmy25252
    Member

    Here is the deal. I recently picked up an early 60s 327 with the small journal. I would like to go through and rebuild this engine for an update in my truck and for the learning experience. I never rebuilt an engine and I am still learning on what combinations are the best bang for the buck.

    I am looking to build an engine that I wouldn't be disappointed with performance or the price to get it done. I do plan on taking it to a machine shop for some work, would a bore be worth it?


    I plan on running 3 deuce carbs when it is all said and done with a 700r4 tranny with overdrive and 3.73 gears in the rear.

    So if this was your project how would you build it. What heads, cam, bore, pistons and etc?

    I need this help so I can know what to look out for at flea markets and online.

    Thanks for your help.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. KWashburn
    Joined: Jul 23, 2006
    Posts: 109

    KWashburn
    Member

    If this is an early 60's 327, it should be factory ready for a beating. If I remember correctly the motors came with a forged bottom end and most of the time had Camel Hump heads, if anybody can identify those anymore. Stupid running joke is stupid.

    These motors can spin to 9K no problem. I wouldn't punch it out if you don't have to. I think Isky had a popular cam for these motors.

    Somebody correct all of this if I'm wrong.
     
  3. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,615

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    It was equipped with a power steering pump so should have a drilled and taped crank but check anyway. If it's going in your avatar rig I would build for low end power instead of a high rever specially with the auto. Truck is light so won't take much to power it. Find a cam that makes good low end power and lots of manifold vacume at idle...............
     
  4. nwbhotrod
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,243

    nwbhotrod
    Member
    from wash state

    With that trans and rear end I would built it to L79 spec
     

  5. timmy25252
    Joined: Sep 15, 2007
    Posts: 315

    timmy25252
    Member

    It will be going in the truck in the avatar. The block number is 3789817
     
  6. tig master
    Joined: Apr 9, 2009
    Posts: 416

    tig master
    Member
    from up north

    Small journal,steel rod's,9k early timing gears,only once!!!!

    T
     
  7. 61 chevy
    Joined: Apr 11, 2007
    Posts: 891

    61 chevy
    Member

    its got 283 valve covers, i would check numbers,
     
  8. It all revolves around your intended use......I would build it as a replica of the 300 HP version.......bullet proof and plenty of torque for your intended purposes. From the pic, it appears the engine is a low HP (250?) and will have small valves and ports. You will probably come out with less cost if you get a set of Edelbrock heads....use the 1.90 intake valve version, not the 2.02 inch valves. You will most likely need to bore the cylinders to clean them up......these blocks can only take a small bore increase. I would also use a hydraulic lifter cam......possibly a COMP cams "RV" type for better torque and easy driveability. I suggest you use cast pistons and the stock rods to save a few bucks....plenty strong enough for your use. Let the machine shop know what pistons you use. Three dueces look real neat, but you might want to re-think that and use a 4-bbl carb...much less time required to keep running well. A good set of block hugger headers will give you a nice sound and let the engine breath better. The "red line" will be about 5600 rpm.

    With all that, you can expect plenty of power and economical driving.

    If you want to build a 375 HP motor, I can help with the tech data....
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 3, 2012
  9. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,934

    squirrel
    Member

    I'd look at the numbers and double check that it's a 327, because it sure looks like a 283
     
  10. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,615

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

  11. goose-em
    Joined: Aug 23, 2008
    Posts: 349

    goose-em
    Member
    from Louisiana

    My dad and I built one back in 88. Loved that motor and will someday put one in something again.

    Mine was bored .060 over

    Cam specs (and I am sure I have these backwards I was 16 at the time) 510 duration 230 lift or something, memory is not that great I suppose. That cam made a pile of power though, a real pile. Sounded like a growling beast.

    High rise manifold, holley 4 barrel, dual exhaust

    Double hump heads

    Thats about all I can remember other than it made around 450 or so HP at the wheels.

    It was fast and fun, had it in a 56 Chev.
     
  12. cowboyinachair
    Joined: Nov 17, 2010
    Posts: 352

    cowboyinachair
    Member
    from colorado

  13. tig master
    Joined: Apr 9, 2009
    Posts: 416

    tig master
    Member
    from up north

  14. hammeredcoupe
    Joined: Feb 28, 2008
    Posts: 513

    hammeredcoupe
    Member
    from Tacoma,WA

    I've used the L79 (327/350hp) cam in the last three 327's I built. Great lopey idle and good power range. Works best with a 4 speed or high stall converter if you run an auto trans.
     
  15. Unsafe6
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 129

    Unsafe6
    Member

    Built lots of these, my favorite! bore it big as you need too with the original style flatops, L-79 blueprint series cam, 1.94" camel humps with 62cc chambers. With the 3 duece setup and a good Ign. it will go like hell but be tame enough for your girl to drive and get 18MPG with your Trans & gears.
     
  16. Bosco1956
    Joined: Sep 21, 2008
    Posts: 545

    Bosco1956
    Member
    from Jokelahoma

    9K lol consider yourself corrected
     
  17. JD Miller
    Joined: Nov 12, 2011
    Posts: 2,221

    JD Miller
    Member

    I suggest you get the old books "How to Hot Rod a Small Block Chevy" and "How to Rebuild a Small Block Chevy" Read and you will be very knowledgable. Lot of good reference info too.
     
  18. As was indicated the casting number reflects 62-7 327, check the date cast on rear for a correct month and year......for your build and needs going in the truck with the 700R4 it sounds like you are more after driveability and looks. The true L-79 327 ran 11:1 compression and had the 2:02 intakes and an aluminum hi-rise. The cam is a good choice as long as the engine is breathing well. This combo will be impressive but maybe not within your target range of reliability and gas. Chances are the block will need bored ...if it is a standard bore now taking it 30 over will yield a 331 ci which is a great start.......go cast on a set of flat-tops which will put you in a compression range suitable for todays gas and for your driving......the tranny will require a few horses to spin so target the build for the 300 horse hydraulic cam........unless you want the slight lope of the 350 horse cam.....the heads in the pic are probably small valved, I would opt up on heads......the three two's will give you the look....most just run the center carb and it is usually low cfm......the SBC runs well on about 600 cfm.....headers will wake it up too! Spend a few bucks on a good electronic distributor too. There is no need to spin this engine up so high for your needs in that truck.....building on a budget and driving it sensibly will give you good service. The 327 and 283 SBC's have always been
    a favorite......bolt on a set of early Corvette script valve covers to top it off with the 3x2's........you are gonna like your results.
     
  19. ray-jay
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 200

    ray-jay
    Member
    from Buford GA

    IMO, maximum of 210 .050 duration. 205 might work better with your cruising rpm. The 327's shorter stroke wants less duration than a 350.

    Have the dist curve set up with 10 degrees initial, 34 total at 3000 rpm [ i.e. 12 degrees in the dist ]. Have the dist guy supply extra spring set that gets the adv all in by 2500 so you can experiment. vacuum adv can set up to give an additional 10 degrees and hook the vac line to direct manifold vac. The vac can needs to start kicking in at 8" to 10" of vac and be fully advanced by 12 to 14. The vac can travel will need to be limited to not over advance the timing. I used a piece of alum with a hole drilled in it and the vac can mounting screw to locate the plate. File the plate to get the travel needed. You can also buy premade eccentric travel limiters.

    Performer intake, 600 Holley vac secondaries.

    Corvette style iron ex manifolds [ this should raise up a wail :rolleyes: ]
     
  20. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,213

    sunbeam
    Member

    The 2 barrel and valve covers scream 283 check the crank flange for the flywheel to see if it has a notch.
     
  21. jetnow1
    Joined: Jan 30, 2008
    Posts: 2,152

    jetnow1
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from CT
    1. A-D Truckers

    If you have a decent machine shop they will tell you if you need a bore job- the chances
    are that you will if it has never been bored but if it does not I would leave it alone- more
    meat for future builds if needed. They are a great little motor but don't believe the 9K
    hype unless you are prepared to spent a lot of $$$. Jim
     
  22. Bigchuck
    Joined: Oct 23, 2007
    Posts: 1,159

    Bigchuck
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    x 2
     
  23. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    Well, maybe with a 283 crank???
     
  24. timmy25252
    Joined: Sep 15, 2007
    Posts: 315

    timmy25252
    Member


    Already have them on the way.
     
  25. timmy25252
    Joined: Sep 15, 2007
    Posts: 315

    timmy25252
    Member

    Thanks everyone for their opinion so far. It is really going to be helpful
     

  26. A bore will really be worth it if your cylinders are worn bad, which they probably are.

    You may try joining the small journal society a club here on the HAMB.

    here's a link:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=718

    Instead of thinking of combos right now the very first thing you need to do is pull it apart measure everything and see what needs to be done to make a good solid runner out of it.

    You can start your parts list once you know what you need. You won't know what you need until you pull it down.

    You're first rodeo. You wll need to make sure your rods are numbered so that they go back where they came from. I keep my rod caps with the rods. Get yourself some zip lock baggies and put things in there and mark the bags. Make sure that your main caps are numbered also and get a look at the orientation before you start pulling them.

    You are going to need a ridge reamer. You will need to knock the ridge off the tops of the cylinders before you can pull the pistons.

    I could go on for pages, just take it a little at a time pay attention to what you do and don't get shook if something doesn't go exactly as planned. You can always overcome about anything that you screw up or think you screwed up.
     
  27. timmy25252
    Joined: Sep 15, 2007
    Posts: 315

    timmy25252
    Member

    The block date is F1362 so June 13th 1962

    And I checked the 3789817 across plenty of different websites before I purchased the engine to double check to make sure it was a 327. I knew 283 and 327 can be close thats why I doubled and tripled check before the purchase. I would of bought is anyways even it was a 283 because of the price.
     
  28. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    I agree with most of what Benno says here, except for this. I have seen more newbies ruin a perfectly good block by over-zealous use of a ridge-reamer than you can shake a stick at. You can probably dis-assemble it without one. Use a wood drift and a decent sized hammer, leave the bearing insert in place, have a buddy there to catch the piston and give 'er a rap, they will almost certainly pop right out. You dont have to worry about breaking a ring, you are going to bore it anyway. If it DOESNT need to be bored, you wont break a ring anyway, so its a moot point. Just dont beat on the end of the rod with a hammer, and you won't hurt a thing. Inexperienced guy with a ridge reamer will often ruin the block.
    As far as the cam goes, I have been watching this thread for a while, I'm involved now, so I'll say something. Even if you want the characteristics of an L-79 cam there are far better choices. The Crane 2050 is a better choice, and it will behave pretty much like the L-79, except it'll be about 15 hp up. Personally, I would be more inclined to go with an Isky 280 Megacam, but it will idle a fair bit rougher than the L-79.
     
    34toddster likes this.
  29. richie rebel
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,184

    richie rebel
    Member

    no way that motor will rev 9k,maybe a dz 302
     
  30. Pop-Rodder
    Joined: Oct 6, 2011
    Posts: 325

    Pop-Rodder
    Member

    202 heads, not 194's, it needs to breath...balance the rotating mass, run the old stock chevrolet duntov 365hp fuelie cam, it will make that motor come alive, and it idles simply sweet. Make sure you set your end 2 carbs up as dumps only, remove all the idle and choke assy's so that all you have are secondary dumps. Good set of headers, good ignition and that motor will rock and roll. They are almost bulletproof motors...best engine chevy ever built. I've done 3 like that and I never had a problem with any of them.

    Oh...and richie rebel....sure that motor will rev to 9K...but it will only do it once!...lol
     

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