Steel structuring a 34 chevy 3 window.

Interesting. The trunklid on a '33 master is all steel. It's weird how much difference there is between the master and standard. Even the bodylines are different.

Keep up the good work.

 

They weren't all built the same.
In 33 they had a chevrolet mercury 3 window coupe that was narrower in body and front sheetmetal than the standard or master by quite a bit.

 

That's correct. The '34 Master was steel lined and the '34 Standard was framed with wood as was the '35 Standard, which was really the same body as the '34 Standard.

'33 was a weird year. Initially there was only one series called "Eagle," which was on a 110 inch wheelbase. But, there was a "Standard" trim in the Eagle series, also on the 110 inch wheelbase. Eventually, the Eagle series wud be known as the "Master," which was different from the Standard in trim only. Half way through the model year, in March, they introduced a new, less costly series on a 107 inch wheelbase which was known as the "Mercury." The Mercury was a totally different body with different dimensions. It eventually evolved into what was later known as the "Standard." So, when talking about a '33, it can get confusing depending on what terminology one is using. It got easier in '34 where there was only a Master and a Standard. Although they looked similar from a distance, they were two distinct series. The Master on a 112 inch wheelbase and the Standard on a 107 inch wheelbase.

BTW, Sonny's build is awesome!

 

My friend and I were building a 34 Chev Sedan Delivery but gave up shortly before skinning the rear panels behind the doors.

We had a wooden superstructure equivalent to a tall ship!

About a week after selling it off... we came to the same conclusion... All Chevy's were meant to be "Woody's"!

 

That's funny , but oh so true. That's why I usually restructure with steel, for me it's just easier.

 

I stopped by Sonnys home shop today for an update. He has moved some of the original interior floor structure, back by the wheel tubs further outwards to the tub and reatached them, giving a stronger support area for the sub structure to be mounted. He then mounted the sub structure in the car. This will be bolted to the frame with bolts going through the structure to bungs in the frame. No visible body mountings. The flooring will be mounted to the upside of the sub structure in the future. He has decided to use new wood that he got with the car in the trunk lid, even though his old original wood is in good condition. He likes the steel structure in most of the car, but in the trunk the wood is gonna work the best for him.

 

How are the door hinges adjustable? Cage nuts on the back side?

 

No cage nuts. The doors are not adjustable in the hinge area, but he did take a great deal of time when alligning, installing the original steel mounting plates to the body to achieve the flush fit. As for adjusting the door gaps that was done the old fashioned was of heating the hinges and lightly bending them. Worked back in 34, and seemed to work again.

 

Yeah thats what I'm leaning towards as well. Did the cage nut thing way back when and it turned out like shit. I'm at that redoing everything stage with a 30 Buick at the moment. You do some pretty good work man.

 

Great thread, good work on that coupe too.

Interesting info on adjusting doors, I sure hope the doors on my '33 don't need re-adjusting after the car is finished. I guess if I build the inner structure really strong, nothing should get out of alignment and the door gaps should stay the same.

Speaking of that, a local guy built a very nice '33 Eagle 5w coupe, but get this, he used thick plywood for the floor! Then he left all the other wood intact or replaced it where needed. After a couple years that floor started bowing and his doors wouldn't shut right! I felt bad for him, because he put a really nice paint job on the car. I made my mind up then that I'd build a complete steel inner structure and steel floor....

 

Thanks. I would like to see some pic's of the buick when it's ready.

Yeah some guys like to rebuild the wood, but I am no good at that, and steel welds easier. Sad story about your friends 33. I know of a few guys that got in a hurry and paid for it in the long run. I was one of them back in the day.

 

Hey solid9 What Model 30 Buick are you doing? I have a 30 model 68
5passenger coupe

 

I did a little work on my 33 Cabriolet this week. I finish welded all the steel tubing I used to replace the wood. Now I can put the body panels back on and continue assembly of the car.

 

Nice. I bet you can't wait till it's on the road. Keep me updated.

 

Thanks guys maybe I'll actualy start a thread one of these days....

It's a 1930 model 30 two door sedan.

Does any one have any references for body measurments for a Buick or a Chevy even? I hear they are quite similar. Mainly I need the width of it at the A and B posts.

Sorry for jackin your thread...

 

Not a problem it's all car related.
I have 26 buick 2 dr sedan that I am gonna start on in the future. Most of what I do on alligning up the body parts has a lot to do with mounting the doors to the cowl first, and then making sure when mounting the lower kick panel below the doors is to keep that even constant roll from the front of the car to the rear. This usually give me the measurements side to side to work from. Hope this helps.

 

A little off topic.
Does anyone know why GM stayed
with wood for so long. Was labor that
cheap?
Matt

 

Awsome work guy's
Love all the different approaches to steel tubing one of these cars.I have a 34 5 window master coupe, rumble seat car I did about 5 years ago and now preparing to do a 34 pick up.Checked out the price of a wood kit for a p.u. and it was 2600.00. So tubing is what wll be done. Also have a 33 3 Window master rumble seat car to do someday as well Keep up the good work.

 

From what I understand is GM had an investment in a forest area or lumber mill, so it was a no brainer to stay with the wood structure like they did. I am glad they wised up in the late 36 to 37 model years, But oh well it has kept the GM models a little cheaper than the others, and me in the game.

34 wood remover those are some nice projects to have. I like the coupe.

 

Thanks ghost
here is another project I have been gathering for.
33 chev 3 window master coupe with rumble seat.Have everthing I need, but time now.
I also took great care in door fitment and welded in a steel floor with cross braces ,but once on the frame they didn,t line up so great.An oldtimer (my dad 84)came over and showed me that to adjust the doors. the body had to be shimed at the mounting point's under the front and rear jambs and then accordingling down to the rear of car.Somthing you may want to remember when playing with cars with no hinge adjustment .
joe mac

 

the car was a hot rod back in the 60's I bought as seen no engine trany ect, I believe it has an oldsmobile rear end 60's and a dodge front straight axle.Also had door and trunk handle removed and holes filled firewall cut and flat steel welded in.Although it looks rough ,it is a suprisingly solid body.I have no idea any history of the car.I bought it 4-5 years ago in stirling ont canada.I probably should try to find some info though
joe mac

 

That is true, they picked up 160,000 acres of timber when they snatched up Fisher, so it was cheaper for them to keep using their own wood as opposed to buying steel. I've often wondered if they still own any of that land...

 

Also, do you guys know what species of wood was used in these cars? I have a '33 master 5W, and the wood I pulled out of it was pretty high quality. Is it plain old oak?

 

Oak and ash, according to Jim Rodman from Autowood Restoration.

 

Thanks for the info. That's exactly what I had in mind is to start with the doors. There;s already been a steel structure made in the car but I don't believe it fallows the lines as it should. The doors have all the original wood in them and is very healthy so they are in perfect shape where as the pillars don't quite match. Does any one make reproduction pillars for the Buicks? It would be nice to have some for a template to work with.

 

Don't know for sure, but you might try Jim Rodman. I bought a complete wood kit from him for my '31 Pontiac.

 

Just checked out his website, wow they do nice work. I might get a few parts for him just to keep some wood in the old girl for nostalgia reasons..haha.

 

Sonny started on the body work with help from his good friend Dave. I think of them as the ODD COUPLE you know Felix and Oscar. Well any way when working together they make a great team, and the body work is turning out nice, with very little filler. He wants to be driving this car this summer. He is using the new wood kit for the trunk, so I guess it's not all steel structure.
Here are a couple of pic's

 

Nice progress John!