The latest challenge to getting this car back together is this pipe plug frozen into the heater port on my Edelbrock manifold. As you can see, there is not much room to work. An 8 point socket did not work, neither did a pipe wrench as I can't get a good purchase. A 9/16" open wrench will fit, but there's not enough wrench to move it. I think a torch is out since there's quite bit of fuel around. I'd rather not have to pull the manifold. I would appreciate any suggestions that might work better than me currently adding Liquid wrench to the threads several times a day. Thanks.
Cut the end off wrench and weld it to a socket? They make 4 point sockets... if you remove the water neck would that give you enough room to get to it with a wrench?
Do you mean there is not enough room to move a wrench or you can't get enough leverage on it? If you have a double open end 9/16 you can use a larger boxed end wrench on the other end to gain more leverage or a length of pipe slipped over it to gain some more leverage.
If it been in there for many years, it's likely that the threads are locked with corroded aluminum. If you did have the proper socket, you may rip the threads out. I would use oxy/act welding tip; heat the end of the plug to dull red, then let it cool to room temps. It should be ok then. If you are not handy or confident with a torch, let a pro heat it.
Umm Get the right (4 point) socket for it, not really that hard of a situation of you use the right tool.
take that alt bracket off then the thermostat housing.if you need to put heat on it take off the carb.i can tell you from exp. those things can stick good. you should be able to get on it with a cresent wrench or 9/16 open end, if you take the stuff off. put firm pressure on it,after heat use the candle wax deal, trans fluid/acetone (not with heat).anything to get down the threads.move it a little then,back. continue to do this. a little at a time working back and forth.paitence is your friend. good luck
Any thoughts about where to get one? I did a search and didn't come up with any answers. My impact wrench is a 1/2" drive. Thanks.
i have drilled,hacksawed with a blade i ground to fit in the hole,but it was a vortec quick connector fitting.it was aliminum. i would weld a wrench to a socket as mentioned earlier. there are 8 point sockets,just a little hard to find.i think i have one.sorry.i bought a set of them years ago. pull carb and fuel line to minimize fuel hazard. crowfoot wrench? would work with an extension and long ratchet.needs to be good quality. probably a little heat would release it.
Spring for a set of those new sockets that Craftsman sells. They claim to fit almost any kind of fastener. They look like a female slip joint for a driveshaft. There good to have if your a tool guy like most of us are. Watch yourself with any kind of heat or flame, take the carb off first, and make sure no vapors are coming from any fuel lines!!. If you dont, that plug will be the least of your worries. Also, that might be in there so bad, you will have to drill it out and tap or chase the threads again. Drain the water out below the level of the intake, remove the thermostat housing and clean out the filings when your done. A vacuum might help too with the right attatchment, or just some compressed air. A couple of filings wont hurt the water pump any more than a wad of rust breaking free from inside a water jacket, TR
If it comes to drilling it out, try and get as close to the center as possible before you drill. Make a X across the plug from two corners to the other two corners and center punch where they intersect, simple. Once you drill it out as far as you can safely go, try an easy out. If that dont work, cave in the sides with a center punch or a pointy drift pin.
How about a large nut, file the centre out to a tight 9/16" square, hammer it onto the fitting, then use a socket on the nut?? Or maybe give the square a belt with a hammer and punch to shock and free the threads works occasionally for me..Just a thought..
use a short wrench that has enough room to clear, put a longer wrench on the end of it which will give you a different angle to move with...
Get a crow foot wrench....goes on your socket. Look here for a pic http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BLACKHAWK-BY-PROTO-Open-End-Crowfoot-Wrench-4AV75
This is the guy with the right answer. A steel fitting in an aluminum intake will seize in given enough time. Be very careful, the threads will come out with the fitting, or worse, the intake will brake around the fitting.
Good excuse to add a nifty new tool to your collection, and very useful for future projects... http://www.theinductor.com/index.php?m=41
I am all for the drilling out method. Be very careful to get exact center and keep stepping the bit up till nothing more than a thin wall and threads are there and use the center punch or a chisel to start folding it till it comes out of the threads. Even if it comes out clean, I would get a pipe tap and chase the threads, then use a good thread tape or sealant with PTFE on the replacement fitting and put it in.
Try taking a socket wrench extension (1/2 or 3/8, whichever fits) and driving it down onto the pipe plug. This will grip solid and not slip or round off. Turn the extension with a 12 point ring spanner or 8 or 12 point socket. The 8 point socket will work the best.
What you want is a single-square socket. Those are made for square pipe plugs. The double square, and especially a twelve point stand more of a chance of rounding the head off. THIS is an example of what I'm talking about, and Snap-On makes them in the size you need in 3/8s drive, though not listed on that page (I have the set). Truth is, if that plug was put in without liquid sealant (which in itself acts like a never-seize) it's probably going to tear some threads on the way out. If you really don't want to heat up the manifold (best way in my experience). Start the motor (if possible) and get it hot. Put a square socket on a breaker bar (not a ratchet) and try working it back and forth, putting more emphasis on counter-clockwise rotation. Patience pays off most times.
I've done lots of these. Best solution is drill it out and run a tap to clean up the threads. You don't want to force anything and break that intake.
It's out! Just an update. I continued soaking the plug with Liquid Wrench, then called my buddy, Bob Fisher-ace welder and all around old time mechanic. He hammered an undersized 1/2" drive socket onto the plug, then used a 12" extension and a breaker bar to turn the plug out. Amazing. I think it was all the penetrating oil, but hat's off to Bob. And, thanks for all the advice.
flip a 1/2 drive extension over and use the female end on it. depending on clearance use the length that gives you the best room, then put a wrench on the male end. this is of course the extension fits on the square drive of the plug, good luck
flip a 1/2 drive extension over and use the female end on it. depending on clearance use the length that gives you the best room, then put a wrench on the male end. this is of course if the extension fits on the square drive of the plug, good luck
woah- pull the manifold. Assuming that's a steel plug in an aluminum manifold, it could shred/leave bits of metal behind when it comes out- if it comes out at all.
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