Are you talking about if the axle tubes are centered in the middle of the C notch when looking at it from a side view? Jon
Do you mean left and right? If yes, centered. What does that have to do with the c-notch? A c-notch should be directly over the center of the axle tube, forward and aft, this allows the suspension to squat (over bumps) without hitting the frame. Not quite sure what you are asking.
I assume you mean side to side? My answer would be no as many production vehicles over the years have been shifted one way or the other . Our Krylon special ( 1918 Dodge roadster with sland six engine has ran to one side for years with no problems. We off set the slant six to get it down in the chassis lower. The drive shaft and u-joints are blind and as long as max angles are not exceeded it doesnt matter.
i guess i am talking front to back i seen a hot rod article that talks bout centering the axle and i was not sure why it would be important to me if im going straight up and back and straight back down and the axle is centered from the mounting pins on the leafs i didn't see a reason why it would matter?
see that's what i was thinking i was gonna do i was gonna throwm my new axle in and get it all bolted in and throw it up and see where it would hit then build from there it makes sense to me but i saw that article and i was not sure .
but if i a correct this one does cause it has leafs so it should travel up and down if it was four link it would pivot more if i am correct down quote me on it .
You will need to estimate where it will end up when it is at the top of its travel, and center the notch there.
you know, as a smartass I wrote this post off as "goofy" axles in either x or y should be centered was my thinkin' After reading some of the thoughtful, most likley educated responses, I am intrigued with the possibility that I may grasp that even a centered rear axle moves on an arc. Just to be clear, one of you are stating the the rear axle on a stock supspended 60s vehicle (for example) moves a little forward or back when theres a bump. I call bullshit unless you are considering thousandths. everything moves a little, but the rear axle will not go forward or back more tha 3/4 (.750) over a bump> Punching over a light, sure.. interesting post for a geometrician
The axle does move... http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/leaf.shtml http://www.circletrack.com/chassistech/ctrp_1107_leaf_spring_rear_suspension/photo_04.html
"but if i a correct this one does cause it has leafs so it should travel up and down if it was four link it would pivot more if i am correct down quote me on it" FYI, a four bar, tri-bar or k-link, ladder bars, etc... are going to travel at different arcs depending on what the lengths of the bars are. A parallel 4 bar is going to have a different arc than one with shortened top bars, or a tri-link. in some setups, the idea is for them not to change as much - some more. depends on what you are trying to accomplish. but, most can be easily measured by putting everything together and simply moving the axle through its travel.
First, I am having trouble understanding what exactly you are trying to communicate here because punctuation is important. Try a period or two, maybe a comma. It's important. Second, if you dont know what you are asking and have to guess what you are talking about, then our guessing about your guessing might not be of much help. Third, your axle will move in an arc, the more travel the more arc resulting . With leaf spings, any load and unload will change the distance from eye/eye. Since the center pin is connected to the eyes and one eye is solidly connected to the frame, the center pin will move fore and aft every time the spring works as well as up and down. That's the arc and its not a smooth arc, it varies. C notches generally are not that big at the narrow end. With the suspension lowered the axle should be centered to allow for the movement noted above. The important part is that the axle doesn't hit the notch.
^^^ the 1st part was kinda funny! And yes, the axle should not hit the notch, if it does, you need a bigger one or ideally bump stops.
well guys im not tryin g to be a smartass but i seems to me that this whole subject is what over-thinking is all about! if your building a car alittle common sense seems to go a long ways.
Well thats is like this i maybe over thinking things but hey it happens. And vicki with a hemi im normaly would say something back to someone such as yourself but screw it it's not worth my time im here to learn and cruise so everyone thanks.
Ok, so learn... What you are talking about is a step notch, not a C notch. And with leaf springs, I would recommend NOT going straight up and back down, as 1/2 the weight is carried back at the shackle end of the spring, and you are creating a BIG hinge point for frame flex. It's different on a link/coil car, because all the weight is carried at the axle. Figure out how much height you need over the axle, then angle cut the notch pieces to clear the housing with as little kick-up angle as possible. Depending on leaf spring length, arch and installed angle, the axle can move forward and back a LOT as the suspension travels. Even on a light weight hot rod, it is worth the time to center the axle in the notch, just so you know it won't be a problem. There is a right way and a wrong way to do everything...just like making sentences. If you want to come on here and get an attitude defending doing something the wrong way, don't expect a lot of help from people who know better.
If you have your answer, no problem. If not, post whether you are doing as step notch or a C notch. It definately will move in and arc, even parallel 4 bar - difference being the pinion angle won't change. If it is a C notch use a pipe 2 inches larger in diameter than your axle. It gives more "give" in your estimating of where the axle will fit up into the frame. I did this on my 64 f100 and it worked perfect. It should go without saying, DO NOT FORGET to weld the saddles to the axle before the project turns into a driver!
What is it exactly that you might say ? Would it be "thank you for taking the time" . I'm not worth your time, yet your question was worth mine to answer. Was I rude, vindictive, condescending, or some other thing that might have instigated trouble. Did I guess incorrectly about the info you wanted or did I give you false information about what I did provide? I said that I was having trouble understanding what you were trying to communicate. That's a fact. It may be a short coming on my end, but it's because you are not even attempting to use common language principals on an internet forum, Where reading and writing is the only way to communicate here. I also said if you are guessing about your questions, that our guessing about your guessing may not help much. That's also a fact. There is more info available here to learn than is humanly possible. Everyone has something to add. Happy New Year
Look its like this yeah my phrasing or typing skills is not what im here to learn bout i here to ask a question and im greatful for your time you took to answer but i dont need to get a english lesson. So its whatever im droppin it.
Okay... I am a geometrician... I am not getting the axle moving forward or backward when a person hits a bump, assuming(TM) leaf springs. UNLESS, the the leaf springs are not of equal strength front and back. Maybe I do get it. Throw me a bone; we are still only talking small fractions. The front of the "leafs" curl(tm) forward slightly allowing the axle to shift .38? I made up the ".38" part. great post for someone who drove an old car with no shocks for 6 months.
...Just a thought... Line everything up...clamp it together...mark it...cut the frame & weld one of these up one each side!...you could even trim them a bit if ya wanted to take some height out...and you got your notch!....just contact Art Morrison Enterprises...these are "bent the hard way"... Look on this page of the online catalog; http://www.artmorrison.com/2006cat/27.pdf These are the same dimensions as the frame rails on our '56 F100...I have a pair of these waiting in the basement....waiting for the snow to go away....so I got plenty of time to plan this out... -
Exactly. All suspension components swing in an arc. I suppose that one could design a suspension that would go straight up and down easy enough. There is really no reason to go through the effort, the amount that your axle swings off center in a normal suspension with average travel is negligible. As a matter of fact the amout that the axle moves off center is so minute that it doesn't cause shock absorbers ot in some cases coil over shocks to bind. Overthinking is an understatement. Center the damed axle up in any position that you like unles you have built your C-notch @ zero clearance it should never hit.
all rear suspensions move foreward when at the top of travel. at ride hieght axle tube should be slightly back from c notch
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