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Model A chop question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Aaron K, Dec 28, 2011.

  1. Aaron K
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 15

    Aaron K
    Member
    from Indiana

    Chopped 4.5" out of my '30. Is it normal to need to cut the header to make the "A" pillars line up?

    Looks like I need to take out about 3/8".

    thanks
     
  2. cafekid
    Joined: Dec 4, 2008
    Posts: 380

    cafekid
    Member

    you will need to pie cut the pillars to line up properly
     
  3. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    don't cut the header.... pie cut the A pillar like Cafekid said, since the A pillars are tapered you need to make them align.
     
  4. Aaron K
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 15

    Aaron K
    Member
    from Indiana

    Then what? Bend out the bottom halfs?

    Seems like the top of the "A" pillars to come in. I was thinking if the bottom of the pillars came out it would cause door issues.

    thanks
     

  5. They are wider at the top. you will need to narrow the header.
     
  6. I pie cut and narrowed the header.
     
  7. amx180mph
    Joined: May 11, 2011
    Posts: 156

    amx180mph
    Member

    Do not cut the header no matter what. My question is did you weld in braces to hold the body from flexing? Pie cutting the a pillar and door pillar is not an absolute but it does make the job easier to get everything lined up. A curled relief as in this photo helps also.
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Aaron K
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 15

    Aaron K
    Member
    from Indiana

    Yes, I did brace the body and the rear and "B" pillars lined up great.

    Checked it out. First I removed the header wood to make sure that wasn't holding the top out too wide, it wasn't. So, I cut off the outer skin on the "A" pillars then made some vertical slices to match the tapers of the pillar structures, tacked them and then had to cut the header to make it all straight. I think it's gonna work out. Got the pillars all welded so next I'll put the outer (front side) skins back on.

    thanks everyone
     
  9. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,474

    A Rodder
    Member

    I have a build thread going on my coupe you can check. I have a filled roof but had it been open I would have narrowed the header as well.

    Rather than porta powering out the posts I cut the ends of the dash rail and pushed out the a pillars to match the width of the upper half of the a pillars.

    I believe this works very well because the posts wont have a kink or bow in them and by relaxing the cowl out, it allowed the center hinge to move out a tad as well. I believe there is no pressure an anything due to alignment issues with the three hinges not being inline.

    The posts definitely taper in width not just angle you will need to slit them. Same goes for the door pieces and quarter glass openings.

    Check my thread, I posted some pics. I would post the link but im on my phone.
    Click my name, then view profile, then statistics, then view all threads started.

    I also disassembled the windshield frame at the top and cut four inches of the top of each end then reattached.

    If I can do it, anyone can!
     
  10. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,329

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I cut my header too.
     
  11. Aaron K
    Joined: Jul 11, 2011
    Posts: 15

    Aaron K
    Member
    from Indiana

    So after the slicing and dicing here's what I got. Still needs some more clean up, probably with a hand file and 3M discs.

    I really appreciate everyone's input on this.
     

    Attached Files:

  12. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,474

    A Rodder
    Member

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