I was doing some online search because I want to run a drill dropped Ibeam on the front of my A with split bones. In an attempt to narrow down exactly what year parts to search for I found these backing plates for use with Buick drums. My confusion comes with what hubs to run with these backing plates and the Buick drums. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Bendix-Style-Brakes-for-1937-48-Ford-Spindles,7373.html I realize the Buick drums are different early on compared to the later ones, so which ford hubs/Buick drum combo would work best with the above backing plates and what width backing plate would I want? Speedway says 37-48 spindles, so is it as simple as 37-48 hubs? if so, which Buick drums and how wide of a backing plate? Thanks.
The only ones that space the drums easily to the right position are the hubs that mount the drum behind the flange (46-48). Other hubs can be used but these work fine without extra spacers and machining. The drums will still need to be turned to fit the hubs and the out side lip of the drums relieved to fit the backing plates. 37-48 spindles are fine and any of the Buick drums are fine. The earlier ones are prettier. Do not buy any drums with a white line between the iron liner and the aluminum. That is corrosion and it throws the shape of the drum off. They will be extreamly hard to balance and will not machine up within tolerance.
They call those a Lincoln "style" backing plate. The backing plates are the same whether you spec 1.75" or 2". You want 2" shoes.
Bob Wilson Makes a set of hubs that are 46-48 style. They drop into a Buick drum and have three bolt patterns to chose from. I have a set, excellent quality. Try WilsonWelding.com
Be very cautious buying on line, especially eBay. You have to ask, why are they not using them. The answer is they were machined wrong. I have seen quite a lot of machined hubs, drums,etc on eBay and they were ruined. Do not remove any of the drum lining when clearancing for the backing plates. The shoes will hang outside the remains of the drum if you do. Just cut the aluminum back. NO IRON!!!
I think what Andy says is very true when looking at old Buick drums at swaps or the auction site. "Lottsa meat" and "plenty of lining" are not saying the actual size of the drums. I have seen one auction that listed the liner size. Even though they were pricey, they would be the only set I would touch. I just sold my last set of 45 fin Buick drums. I told the buyer (friend) there is one turning left. I just bought the New Lincoln drums today and will run those with Wilson Finned Backing plates. My friend now has three sets of Buick 45's which gives him a spare set. I found an old thread by someone who put 12" chevy caprice drum shoes on early ford backing plates, shoe # 364. I would like to go this route for my next drum setup. Hope this helps. Gordon
Isn't there plenty of good drums around? I didn't know they were scarce for a usable set. I do have a brake lathe so if they need to be cut then that's not a prob but I obviously don't want ruined ones.
The maximum factory tolerance was usually around .060 over the stock diameter, and the problem is that fifty years after the fact, you don't know how many resurfacings they've already had. It may look great, but if it measures out to 12.096, it's already over spec.
I'm the one that did the Caprice wagon mod way back when. When I talked about cutting the drums, I ment the interference with the backing plate. Just cut the aluminum back and do not machine any of the iron off for clearance. The corrosion is a major factor where it is damp. I had a drum that was 3/16 out of round due to corrosion. I have seen dozens at swap meets that were scrap. Look and measure closely.
Bob Wilson machined my 42-48 front hubs and 45 fin Buick drums and his price was very reasonable. Even with shipping both ways it would be hard to find a better price and Bob knows what he is doing. I don't know if Speedway gets their backing plates from Bob or M/T Products. Both are excellent. The 2" wide M/T Products reproduction Lincoln brake drums are a quality piece and they look good. They will work with the earlier Ford hubs.
so 42-48 is the year range I'm looking for? I have a brake lathe and a regular lathe so I have confidence I can do all the machine work.
There are clearance problems between the spindles and the "Lincoln" backing plates. The spindles will have to be ground back. I am not sure the king pins on 42-48 spindles will even clear the brake hose. Try to find the round back spindles.
these are the spindles I was looking at. I think they are the round backs?? http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Super-Bell-Spindles-for-1937-41-Ford,6617.html I sent an email to Riley Auto. I think they have some affordable hubs that work with the Buick drums. as an aside, I'm looking for a 36 or newer 4" drop I beam and some 'bones. I was going to buy the axle new but I need a set of bones. Is it worth buying a new set or going through some OE ones. What is a set of OE bones worth?
Take the advice of a lot of HAMBers and do a search before you order anything from Riley. That's all I'm gonna say about it. Bob Wilson is A#1 to do business with and his parts fit and work. His web site page did say awhile back that he was goona soon have new repro Buick drums, dunno if he ever got that up and going. Dave
Never trust free info. I went and checked and the square backs clear without grinding. The roundbacks just need some off behind the upper boss. 32-34 bones for spring over are expensive.35-36 arn't bad but look funny with the big boss. I use Model A bones and make new ends. The ends are double bent so they drop down and clear the tie rod. A bones can be had for $20-60.
I'm going to be running suicide with the spring mounts thru the bones. can't the boss be trimmed on the 35-36 to make it smaller? anyone know the price of the wilson hubs? I hate to call and bother him when I won't be ordering anything for another 2 months or so.
This is one place where the bitterness of receiving poor quality parts will linger looooong after the sale, and quality parts that FIT will forever be a pleasant thought. Bob Wilson sells quality parts at a fair price. Dave
well this isn't the only place like that. People everywhere value the hell out of the depreciating dollar. what exactly is a fair price for these hubs though?
I'm just in the planning stages and I don't want to bother the guy. I'm not purchasing for another ~2 months. Going to spend the next couple weeks collecting parts like an axle, 'bones, and drums. Then order the spindles, backing plates and hubs after I have all the other parts.
If you're going to mount the axle suicide-style with the spring mounted to the 'bones, you may as well buy a set of the new ones from Speedway - I think they have threaded holes already there for your perches to bolt to.