Currently I have an HEI distributor on my 327 sbc it looks like a sore thumb sitting on top of the engine, although it performs well. Don't know a lot about distributors, but I want to switch it back to a traditional look that will use an external coil. I see dual point Mallory's out there, but I don't know anything about them. Looking for any suggestions on what to use keeping budget in mind. Open to using pertronix(?) also.
I have a couple of delco window distributers here, one I converted to Petronix and the other is still stock. They are cheap and would have been stock on your 327. I keep them around for spares. You may look for one of them. I don't doubt that GMC Bubba has one ready to go if you drop him a note.
A stock distributor with a Pertronix kit would give you the best of both worlds. You carn also go with a flamethrower. Another option is just a rebuilt stock distributor...they work just fine with points.
PerTronix has just come out with a brand new Sand Cast distributor that looks just like an Old Delco but features all new internals, a performance advance curve (adjustable), vacuum can (also adjustable) and PerTronix Electronics. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PNX-D104600/
My 327 on the Model A has a Rochester fuel injection that requires its fuel pump to be driven by the distributor. I am running the stock Delco unit with a Pertronix Ignitor II inside. The combo has worked really well for me so far. Externally, there is no clue that anything modern is lurking within.
327s didn't have H.E.Is to begin with. H.E.Is were introduced in 1974 so you will be doing your motor a great service by removing the H.E.I and going back to a orginal style distributor.
back in the "day" ,I ran a 327 300 hp 63 motor in my 57 chevy, used a dual point corvette, tach drive distributor and had no problems. A few years ago, in a 57 I had then, ran a pertronix's conversion and it crapped out and left me standing on the side of the road, if I was doing it again today I would run a dual point or at least a good original dizzy with a better coil.
I know everyone will scream and complain but in a pinch I bought a cheap-o e-bay special that looked like a dual-point but had the little box underneath and on the back to make it work like an HEI. It was about $50 and really worked well. I never had any problems with it, it held true thru the rpms, and was cheap.
All Star Automotive 4150 Puente Avenue, Baldwin Park, CA 91706-3432 <NOBR>(626) 960-5164</NOBR> <NOBR></NOBR> <NOBR>HEI in a old style points dist. with black & red wires to a regular 12volt coil. I pluged the vacuum adv. because I run stromburges</NOBR>
There is a lot to be said for the "bullet proof" original mechanical system. I admit to carrying mine with me on the road, just in case. I have never had a problem with a Pertronix unit, but sure have heard a few on the HAMB state otherwise. ...And you never know when those pesky Russians or Middle East extremists will set off an EMF bomb... In the meantime, I will enjoy the better combustion efficiency and higher performance I am getting with the Ignitor II. But will keep my points and solid state dwell meter as insurance.
Either a stock window points distributor or an early Mallory with the 2 piece cap. Either of them can take the Pertronix unit. They were the only ones that I saw on the street. I did buy a Spalding Flamethrower in 67 but they have gotten pricey and hard to find. my favorite
You can run a stock coil with the dual point, I like to run the transformer coils with mine for a little more zot but you can run a stock coil no problem. With a dual point you get better spark dwell and that makes for better spark at the plug. With the newer mallory dual point distributer you have to rough up the bottom of the points before you land them on the point plate or they won't hold a gap worth a flip.
I agree with troylee, I run a YC Mallory "double life" dual point distributor with mechanical tach drive on my 388" small block. works great at all rpm's. Mick
Steve contact Bubba. He can build what ever you need from an original Chev 327 distributor. http://www.lindertech.com/bhrs/ http://www.lindertech.com/bhrs/chev_8_dist_elec_conv.htm
This one came out of a "68" 327/350 HP 4-speed car I once had. And, I used to run that engine up to 6700-RPM with no issues whatsoever. Key I found is a good quality set of points, strong springs and a sound coil.
The guys that ran them usually did buy the Mallory coil for the extra voltage but you can run a stock style 12V coil with them. The reasoning behind the dual points setup is being able to have better coil saturation along with being able to set the distributor up to match the needs of the engine a bit better. The only real advantage of a distributor using points over one using an electronic setup is that as a couple of guys alluded to above you can usually do a band aid fix on the side of the road if they act up. That is usually a worn rubbing block or the contacts being burned and sticking. You can't fix a Petronix or Hei on the side of the road with a screwdriver, your girfriends old emery board and a match book cover too often but you can make a set of points work that way. I got a guy's Dodge pickup going in a little rest area about 15 miles west Of Little America Wyoming with just those items in 1998 But unless you keep a point setup tuned to the gnat's ass all the time you are probably going to have to put in a bit more effort to get the engine to start especially on cold mornings and you may loose a bit of gas mileage over what the HEI gave you. I ran points in the engine in my 71 for years and swapped to an Hei a couple of years ago. It was always a bit hard to start when cold. It started first lick this morning when it was 22 degrees out with one pump on the Edelbrock's accelerator pump.
I run a Corvette OEM dual point Tack drive Dist for the Last 40 years with No Problem at all just my 3.5 cents
This is what I'm concerned about: not just the roadside fix but the principle of duplicability and the whole philosophy behind it. Any idea what the electronics in the Pertronix kit actually is? The ignition unit in my OT DD is basically just a whopping great power transistor, and I generally carry a spare in the car. That I don't object to, but I like to keep my cars microchip-free.
I love the look of the old school chevrolet cast iron units. Our Hamb special on these for you guys is $ 100 with cap and rotor , heavy duty points and condensor, totally rebuilt and painted black curved for the small block with vacuum advance etc. ( same price on later aluminum ) Electronic version of either ( pertronix unit) is $192 complete.
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