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Dec Banger meet.... Christmas on all four

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bluto, Dec 1, 2011.

  1. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020

    RichFox
    Member Emeritus

    I have a BHJ dampener on the Dodge Bros. Made for a SBC. The crank was made to accept the Chevy parts. And the truth about my spacious and tidy shop is now revealed.
     

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  2. kenagain
    Joined: Dec 15, 2005
    Posts: 820

    kenagain
    Member
    from so cal

    The adapter has to be a 32 because it has the mount holes on the side 33 34 was set up for anti chatter rods and does not mate up to stock mounts. I have a spare one if interested
     
  3. Rich; I'm very glad to see that you have made a full recovery ! :D
    Ron
     
  4. The Mallory came in last night- it has a good bit of flash rust inside and out and needs to be torn down... in order to get the dist shaft out, do I need to tap out the pin in the circled area? I just don't want to ruin it!
     

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  5. edfueler
    Joined: Oct 16, 2009
    Posts: 106

    edfueler
    Member

    G'day Stovebolt. That early A rolling chassis you picked up on ebay was a great buy alright. I was watching that one myself. It's great that it still has it's shock absorbers and even its radiator shroud. It must be a pretty early one.
    Great stuff, anyway. I have just registered a LHD RPU that I built up on a chassis that came from under a coupe. I'll be really interested to see how yours go with the jeep transmission in it. -Ed
     
  6. edfueler
    Joined: Oct 16, 2009
    Posts: 106

    edfueler
    Member

    A banger club at Chopped? Next year, I'm there!
     

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  7. Remove the pin and it should come apart. Ken
     
  8. ebtm3
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 837

    ebtm3
    Member

    Tap the pin out with a small punch. then the shaft will pull out through the top. Keep track of any thin washers between the shaft coupling and the body--they take up any endplay.

    Herb
     
  9. jakeknapp29
    Joined: Aug 16, 2009
    Posts: 40

    jakeknapp29
    Member

    I finished my Model T this past September! I met my goal and was able to race it in the Newport Hill Climb.
     

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  10. Thank you gentlemen!

    VERY nice T, Jake!
     
  11. zenndog
    Joined: Feb 16, 2008
    Posts: 162

    zenndog
    Member
    from Santa Cruz

    Ditto, nice T Jake!
     
  12. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,113

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Does anyone need custom made main and rod bearings?

    THIS IS NOT MY DEAL. But I seen the results they are high quality and cheaper that pouring BABBIT.

    You must have dimensions to order. A simple ''How much for a Ford'' isn't going to get you very far

    These are tri-metal bearings made to your order and specs

    Contact:

    "Dominik Justkowiak" <[email protected]>

    NOT ME!!!!!!!

    [email protected]

    There have been several posts here asking for bearings ..... here is the best guy I found. He is honest and speaks English. The company is in Poland and will do one set or hundreds.

    This is not an ad but an answer to those posting they need custyom bearings made.
    Did I violate some rule by listing contact info?
    As I said this is not my business and I don't wish to be in the middle. Hence the listing
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2011
  13. ezdusit
    Joined: May 10, 2008
    Posts: 246

    ezdusit
    Member

    Sunday I volunteered to work at the Young Life Christmas tree lot in Huntsville (30 miles from home). Decided to drive the '32 Plymouth coupe -- the other '32 banger. Had to dress it up for the Christmas season...
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2011
  14. BCCHOPIT
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,601

    BCCHOPIT
    Member


    That thing is cool...nice job on the header
    What took you so long to show it off :)
     
  15. Exactly what I was thinking! Now we need some video of it running!
     
  16. BCCHOPIT
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,601

    BCCHOPIT
    Member

    I can help post the video
     
  17. jakeknapp29
    Joined: Aug 16, 2009
    Posts: 40

    jakeknapp29
    Member

    Thanks Guys! I know it took me way too long to get pictures up! I will see if I can't get a video up sometime.
     
  18. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,343

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    I went to the Mooneyes Xmas Show and Drag event on Saturday. One of my passes on the drag strip is at the 1:09 min. mark.

     
  19. MJW
    Joined: Jun 29, 2006
    Posts: 474

    MJW
    Member
    from NJ
    1. PA. NJ. local HAMBERS group

    Cool. Cool 1912 Pierce bike too.
     
  20. BCCHOPIT
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,601

    BCCHOPIT
    Member

    Thanks DaddyO
    Looks like you had lots of fun
     
  21. I was there with my Coupe but never made it over to see ya Dan. Parked over at Taylor Engines booth when I got there to Mooneyes. Was a couple of Model A engines running around this year besides Dan and I.-Weeks
     
  22. BCCHOPIT
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,601

    BCCHOPIT
    Member

    Very lucky day today. It was almost 40 Deg. out so the A came out of the shed and I took it to work.
    I think I might get lost on the way home.
     
  23. Guys have another question..

    I'm at the stage with my chassis where i want to set up the steering column / box / wheel.

    I am running the banger, A chassis, '48 spindles and a stock axle / wishbone. I have a MINT '41 steering column, box and wheel that i want to use but it seems i can't use it side steer as it will run backwards.. and if i go cross steer the banger is in the way.

    What do you blokes do for steering column / box and cross or side steer with the juice spindles?
     
  24. BHT8BALL
    Joined: Aug 22, 2010
    Posts: 262

    BHT8BALL
    Member

    Max is using a '40 steering with cross link, don't think it would make any difference if the axle was stock or dropped like Max's. The only critique I have is that the pitman arm needs to be longer than stock as it has very slow but easy steering. pat
     

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  25. T__N__A
    Joined: May 31, 2006
    Posts: 368

    T__N__A
    Member

    Cool T! Looks like allot if fun.
     
  26. Stovebolt
    Joined: May 2, 2001
    Posts: 3,531

    Stovebolt
    Member

    Oh learned ones.

    Another question from one of your humbled followers, if you'd be so kind?

    I've been told that you cannot run anything but AR wheels on AR drums. If this is so, are there any adapters out there that allow late 16" steel rims to be fitted to these drums?

    I want to throw this thing on the road asap, and for as little $ as possible (read mortgage, school fees, etc etc) :(
     

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  27. Thanks for those pictures mate.

    I was sitting the '41 box in the chassis in line with the original hole in the rails for the original steering box, so therein was my problem. I never thought of placing it that far forwards.

    Does Max have the column in the standard location on the dash or is he running any early Ford column drops to bring the steering wheel down a few inches?

    I have a '35 drop that i've pie cut the mounting hole section to pull it down to bring it parallel to the column tube as it didn't seem like it would work as it was originally.
     
  28. RoddyB34
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 543

    RoddyB34
    Member

    Hey Mark ,,thats a good move,chuck the body on ,,bypass the engineer crap,,,,although its been a bit more work than we thought my sons A coupe has been a lot of fun ,learnrt a lot about the A Ford mechanicals ,,
     
  29. zenndog
    Joined: Feb 16, 2008
    Posts: 162

    zenndog
    Member
    from Santa Cruz

    More of Rich Fox's 1926 Dodge motor, from today

    Rich installed the damper doruing the week, this is a billet crank that Rich had made by Crower. It uses Dodge/Mitsubishi insert bearings which the block and mains were line bored to accept. Rich fabricated the mains himself. The crank nose accepts a SBC damper, and the crank flange accepts ford flywheels so he could bolt the engine on to the driveline already in his 29 roadster.

    [​IMG]

    The front of a SBC oil pan was welded to the front of the original 26 Dodge oil pan so the motor uses a front seal from a SBC

    [​IMG]

    Here is a close up of the timing gears and the mix of spacers, one from the original 26 Dodge crank, and two Rich and I made while fitting the timing gears. This is also a good close up of the front main cap, note the fitting for the full pressure oil.

    [​IMG]

    Oil pan from the inside, showing the pressure lines for the main caps and the oil manifold. All fabricated and assembled by Rich.

    [​IMG]

    Another view of the crank

    [​IMG]

    It was difficult to attach the oil lines and then locate the pan, even though this was the down hill side, the caption would read "@@$#%^***##@!!"

    [​IMG]

    Buttoning up the pan

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Buttoned

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The story that isn't shown:

    The rear oil fitting was in the way of the rear counter weight. after the first assembly we had to take it back apart and turn down part of the nut, took two cuts but its all good now!

    After fixing the rubbing fitting, we were bolting the pan down, and realized we forgot the half of the rear rope seal that went in the oil pan so we had to unbolt the pan one more time. At least we didn't have to disconnect the oil lines, I was able to slip the seal in. Then we buttoned it up! May seem simple but this was a milestone day after waiting for the custom timing gears for 11 months!!!!!
     
  30. NORSON
    Joined: Jan 19, 2009
    Posts: 469

    NORSON
    Member

    Thanks for the info Bluto. Are the inserts with the clevlite 77? I've filed the info for the future. Thanks again. Norm
     

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