I'm putting a '38 flattie in a 29 roadster. Boxing the frame seems to be a logical move. However.....I have this question about that. If I use the boxing plates to essentially close off the frame, how in the hell do I get to my body mount bolts and nuts? They do mount through the frame you know. Yes, I'm serious...this is my first (and last) rod and I really want to do it right. So, please...all you tried and true chassis greats and rod builders...what do I do here? And if you have any pics to explain it better...please do include them...Thanks
hay Pop rodder, Ok lots a ways of doing this, its up to you what you want. I weld "NUTS" under the frame where you are going to put your bolts. It takes a little planing to do it right. another way is to cut a hole in the boxing plate where the bolt hole is. now you can make small patches to screw on to cover the holes or you can leave the holes.......always use weap holes on the bottom of the frame to let water out. water doesn't rust out your frame, but the dirt and other stuff that doesn't dry out will
Never had one NOT give out, or spin, at some point in its life. I just weld nuts inside, before boxing.
Thanks guys, welding the nuts underneath was my first choice as well. Just seemed logical to me, although somewhat time consuming being as I have to mount the body again...but hey, I'll probably put this thing together and take it apart a hundred times before its all over...thanks for the help guys and thank God for this forum!
I put a drop in my frame and boxing plates inside slightly. This one was my first, but turned out exactly as I wanted. It is a pain in the ass but I bolted everything up drilling holes & making tabs. when all I could think of was done I took it all apart & welded the nuts & in some cases sawed off pieces of rod bored & threaded to take the bolts. I had one of my Cummins motors blow up & saved the pushrods, the light wall steel tubes make excellent crush tubes so I could thru bolt stuff like the shocks & steering box without warping things. also when boxing the frame will want to warp inside as well as leingthwise. mine is welded completely but had to cut a few tacks & change the pattern. No big welding fixture, jackstands a wad of 1/16" shims and a damn good level & eyeball. Some pictures, I used the buzz box I am used to, DC reverse would be prefered for going all way around, but not rich so I have to flip my work flat or vertical. When you fire up & drive around the yard with no body on it, then through the woods, into the hayfield then on the road and down the road back to the house, too late can't stop. It will be finished 1 week after that.
I use crush tubes, a piece of tubing between the top flange and bottom flange welder in with hole drilled through the bottom flange using the crush tube as a guide, then weld boxing plates on. Nuts below the bottom flange, I do run full fenders so the nuts do not show. Vergil
this is how i did mine. I used a model A frame and welded 1/8 angle pieces around the orginal bolt holes.Then i welded nut to 1/8 flat steel i cut to 1 1/4 lenghts.Then slid these into the angle parts and boxed my frame.More effort but allowed me to move body around for better alignment of my body.
i havent done this yet, but i plan on it in the future. I plan on have holes but in my boxing plates and have then dimpled. it ads strength, less weight, and still gives you access to nuts and bolts, run wires and fuel lines. and if you space them evenly and have it right it looks good to.
To be 100% honest with you, your '38 flatty probably isn't going to have enough power to really make boxing the frame necessary. I know thats not what you asked. I have a '30 coupe with a '47 engine and an unboxed frame. I've had zero troubles with it. Yes it flexes, no it doesnt break or crack. If you do box it, box the entire thing and don't leave any open areas. Open areas will create an area prone to cracking when the frame trys to flex as it has been for 80 years. Good luck with your build, Im partial to flathead powered A's myself.
I've had too many problems with blind fasteners. If you have ever had one of these blind fasteners spin or break loose, while either removing or re-installing, you'll know what I mean. I prefer to provide an access hole and just use a bolt, washers and maybe a locknut.
Use 3/8 flat bar, cut in sort sections and weld under rail, drill and tap, I found this to be the best way, no problem getting welding "berries" in threads. I think 29PU stole my 28 PU they could be twinsies, no shit same color, wheels different.
Cage nuts before boxing. This might help you, take a look: http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/0708rc_boxing_the_frame/photo_02.html
Actually for a flatty it may have only been partially boxed anyway. A lof of them only got boxed to just behind the cowl and that would allow you to reach in from behind on your frint most body mount. That said even if it were only partially boxed it would get nuts welded to the bottom of the frame flange because my arms are really not long enough to reach under there and hold the nut while I thighten it.