Hey, guys I just put a 400 in a 55 chevy that I have, the tranny is behind a 327. The 400 was rebuilt with a shift kit, the tranny set in the floor for 15 years after the rebuild without being run. I took a chance and put the 400 in the car with a new 2500 stall converter, well I am having trouble with it, I do not know much about transmissions so I am kind of lost. I can put the trans in reverse and it is very responsive, it will spin both tires with a tap of the throttle. I can put the trans. in drive and it is very sluggish and will barely pull, like it is very low of fluid, pull the shifter down to second and it acts the same way. Now, pull the shifter down to 1st and it will act the same way for about 2 or 3 seconds then it will just stop pulling and rev up, like it is in neutral. I do not know if someone messed up putting the shift kit in 15 years ago and left a check ball out or maybe the sealing rings where dry rotted from sitting there dry for 15 years and when I started the car they tore apart and have fluid blowing by them?? ANY suggestions is appreciated,I am trying to decide if I need to go ahead and pull the tranny or maybe it can be fixed through the valve body? I know,I know I am kicking myself for not putting the muncie in there.
I'm assuming its getting good vacume? Sorry for the stupid question...but my TH350 was behaving the same way a couple months ago and I realized I had pinched off the vacume line while re routing some wires!
You didn't pull the pan or anything before you put it in? might have got condensation in it and rusted some parts together in the valve body? or just got sticky from age. But first tell us about the fluid level, how much ATF did you put in, and how careful did you check the level? are you checking it idling in Park after running the shifter thru the gears, did you look carefully at both sides of the dipstick to make sure you're getting a good reading?
Yes, the pan was pulled and checked out by a trans. shop. they said it looked good "without tearting it completely back apart and it was not rusted up. I put 2 quarts in the converter and about 9 or 10 in the trans. I checked the lokar dipstick yesterday and it was barely touching the dipstick, so I put another quart in it today and it quit taking fluid , backed up to the top of the dipstick ,so I assume it is overfull now, but it acted the same 3 quarts before also.
I agree........Sounds like something in the valve body is stuck.At least you don't have to drop the trans to check it.
I am sure it was not over full to begin with, and it was doing the same thing. I am going to get a different dipstick, I want to put a stock type dipstick, but it will not fit between the engine and the firewall.
did they put in a reverse band and it is too tight and dragging?? i did one on my tonner truck and had to grind about close to 1/2 in off the actuator pin you could check it for clearance by droping the pan i am sure
The fluid level should be approx equal to the pan flange. With the transmission in park and fluid up to temperature loosen a couple of pan bolts and let the excessive oil run out, now tighten the bolts and add 1/4 of a quart just to be save. And re mark the dipstick to the new level if neccesary.
Hey, guys Pulled the pan today and these parts where in the pan, I guess the roll pin holding this valve in was left out or fell out. The roll pin was not in the pan so,i do not know.Does anyone know what this valve is called? It is on the pass. side front of the valve body. Does anyone know what size roll pin that i need to pick up at the parts house?
Just make sure you use a different "trans shop" to reinstall the parts. Might have been 4:55 on a friday when he said " it looks good, closer up".
That's quite unusual for that pin to fall out. It's just a split sleeve, you should be able to spread it open to make it fit tight again.
if it sat for 15 years the clutch engagement piston seals are likely dried up and causing low clutch preasure and slipping,should probably tear it down and put a seal kit in it,if the foward clutch snap ring was installed wrong it will also cause slipping in all foward gears,the direct clutch locks to the sun gear and engages the band for reverse so it is more of a mechanical engagement instead of hydraulic so thats why you have reverse,that looks like the 2-3 shift valve but it is tough to tell not knowing for sure what bore it came out of and the roll pins are all the same so you can measure one of the others and go off of that,if you have a manual you can run preasure test and that will tell you for sure
That is the 3-2 downshift valve spring, valve pin and bore plug. The 3-2 valve is probably still in the valve body. But you will have to pull the valve body to put it back together because the roll pins go in from the top. Also, check if the other roll pins are installed from the top and not from the bottom or this will happen again. If you realy can't find the roll pin then you could get one at a local trans shop.
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