This came in my 1955 Chevy Truck. I cleaned it up replaced the blower motor(with one I had laying around..dumb luck) and put it in. Ran the truck last night long enough to see if it would get warm and it just doesn't cut it. I started looking for parts only to realize that this isn't a 1955 Chevy Truck heater. I need to know what it is before I can price stuff to repair it. Please help. Any ideas? the core doesn't leak. I was hoping to make it through the winter before going with the ac/heat replacement.
You really need to post some better pics ....and maybe better angles and you will get better responses...... Kenny
BL, Is your core blocked? it doesn't take much to heat a truck cab as a rule. Maybe pull the core and measure it. I have a couple of heater cores lieing around that I would be using and am sure I am not the only guy that keeps that kind of stuff one of us may have what you need to get to making hot for you.
Trying for better pics. If I get no I.D. on it, I'll pull it out. I let the truck run for at least 15 minutes and it barely broke luke warm. My 70 ford would roast you out by that time. P&Beaner- I didn't think about it being blocked, that makes sense. I was more worried about a leak. I guess either way I need to pull it out.
Sometimes they get an air lock and need to be bled. Loosen the top hose until coolant comes out then tighten up again.
No need to take it out to clean blockage. Remove hoses from motor, turn heat valve on (open) take the garden hose and run water through it in both directions till its clear. Be ready to get wet!! LOL.
The lever is traveling all the way in its slot. It seems as if its working. I saw a picture of a 57 deluxe heater and I think this may be it.
I can't identify it from the pictures, but I'm guessing it's an aftermarket accessory. Even as late as the '50s, heaters were a dealer installed option on trucks, and you could still buy the aftermarket accessory heaters that were common in the '30s and '40s. A lot of people bought the universal aftermarket heaters instead of buying one from the dealer. I've seen a very nicely restored '56 Ford pickup at some of the local shows that has an Arvin heater in it instead of a Ford accessory heater. Doesn't really matter what brand it is, they all work the same way, just a heater core with a fan behind it. If you need to replace the core, there is going to be some readily available heater core that will be close enough to the right dimensions. I found an '80s Ford Ranger core to be the right size for one old heater I had.
Yup - you have an original 55-59 Chevy truck deluxe heater there. Check under the dash and see if the cable is actually working and/or moving anything when you move the lever. May be tough to see as the cable goes into the housing. The heater valve may be rusted in position. May need to remove the entire unit and go thru it. The portion on the right is where the flap is to direct air in from the outside (cowl) or inside the cab - controlled by the little lever that moves horizontally.
Is the return hose getting hot? If not then the coil, control valve or hose has a blockage. If hot water is circulating through the complete system then the duct work might have a blockage or a damper is not opening. These systems are pretty simple. Verify water flow and then move on to air flow etc.
If it is blocked you can get it boiled for sure, or if you run a tape on it and it mathes one of my spares you are more than welcome to one of them. That's why I keep stuff like that. When I die someone else will need to do that by the way.
Yeah, after the 15-20 minutes it ran, I didn't feel the hoses getting hot like they should. I'm thinking I might have gotten air in it while I removed it. I emptied it completely to clean and paint it, then when I reinstalled it, both heater lines were full so I can definately see where I could have trapped air in between causing the air lock. Any tips on purging the air? One post said loosen the top, but mine are parallel.( maybe loosen the higher hose on the engine??) It's supposed to be nicer outside today, so I'll pull the truck out to run it. My family will appreciate that. I can fill the house with fumes in two minutes so you can imagine what twenty did. If I get no luck on the air purge, I'll measure it. Thanks for the offer P&B.
Crack the hose that goes to your intake on the intake end unless the heater hoses are above that in which case crack the same hose at the heater. More than welcome.
Update: Heater core not blocked, I think it might have been but after some sucking and blowing ( not a proud moment) it began letting air through. Thermostat looks to be a 160. Is that hot enough to do any good? I really don't wanna take this back out if I can help it.
the original thermostatic water valves in the heaters tend to leak, and the reproduction valves are crap (they don't let much water thru, and don't have the thermostat). I just take the valve apart, take the guts out, and solder a penny over the hole. Full heat all the time, but you can close the air vent and it shuts off the heat. It's definitely the original deluxe heater for a 55-59 truck.
Are you sure you have the hoses hooked up correctly on the engine? You need one side to be pressure. I've seen a few engine swaps where the owner got confused and had both hoses connected to one side of the system and thus no flow to the core for heat. Pretty easy to do! Personally, I like a hotter thermostat than a 160* in an engine...especially in cold weather, as it allows the engine to burn off internal condensation easier and keeps sludge buildup to a minimum. As a bonus...you get hotter heat in the cab too!
I was thinking about that thing with the hoses....thanks for bringing it up. I run 180 degree stats in all my old stuff.
I know I replaced them where they were, but thats not to say they were correct. I believe the hose from the intake is the pressure side, but I don't know which side of the heater core it belongs on. It came off the right side. ( They are side by side, a few inches apart.) I can't seem to find a diagram.
when i clean heater cores(it really helps when its minus 40)i do it one of two ways. two hoses,one empty jug to catch what comes out.a funnel and a blow gun. another gallon of water. pour a cup or so of water,followed with a blast of compressed air.blow stuff into empty jug to see what comes out. reverse hoses and repeat. 4 or 5 shots of water with a blast of air really cleans the cores of scale. another is rad flush and hot water circulated through heater core only,using an electric pump.i used a submersible sump pump and recirculated it for about ten minutes- five minutes each way. either way nets fantastic results if core has any blockage.been doing it this way for many years. up here,heat is a necessity.i recall after doing this on one car,i think you could cook a chicken in it.they sold it to me dirt cheap due to the poor heat. Frank
Use a 195 degree thermostat, the 160 is way to cool for the heater. Just disconnect the heater hoses from the engine and back flush with a garden hose. Drain the engine and rad then add antifreeze and water to a 50/50 mixture. That is good for 45 below zero.
Looks like the stock deluxe heater, an option over the standard recirculating heater (the core is round). It is not uncommon for the valve to be faulty and/or the core to be stopped up. The valve is available from various on-line Chevy truck parts houses.
Victory on the heater. I took the heater box apart to find the valve seized up. After some silicone lube and some elbow grease, I got it open fully. Put it back in and the thing started blowing hot almost instantly. Now I just need to repaint it. The paint got destroyed while taking it apart.
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