I could use some suggestions for a choice for the rearend in the gasser coupe I'm building. It will have a 468 BBC tunnel ram and 'glide with a brake and hopefully weigh less than 3100 lbs. My options right now are: 1. Ford Explorer 8.8" with 31 spline axles, 3.73 posi & disc brakes that I already had for another project. 2. '57 Ford Ranchero 9" with drum brakes, unknown gears and axles that I can pick up for about $100. 3. 12 bolt Chev with drum brakes and uknown gears and axles that I can get for about $250. I know each has it's good and bad points and I will have to modify whichever one I go with, so, my question, which will be best for the least?
Proctologist can help with rear ends. Best for least? That's really not possible unless you have stuff on the shelf. Unkown gears should take only a few mins to figure out. That's going to help some in your decision is think. As far as modifications, what are you planning on. Hard to best that 9" as far as parts and reliability. Again depends on what you need to do and what you want to do.
Spend your money 1 time, and get a Mark Williams set up, with your size, ratio, and splines. You need to forget about the your 3 listed rears, and stick with a 9 inch. The 57 Ranchero, will be 28 spline, as well. Eric
The 8.8 is just as or stronger than the 12 bolt especially with the 31 spline axles. You'd still have to figure in the $$$ for posi's for the other rear ends as well. And whatever else they will need for gears,axles and brakes. Sounds like the 8.8 is the most ready drop in. But for looks and traditional go with the 9" or Olds Pontiac rear.
They are scarce, but if you could find one, a Dana 60 out of a late 60's early 70's Mopar should hold up. Be aware that saving money now can really cost you later. Gasser project with a 468 BBC will need a stout 3 rd member. What ever you use it needs to properly preped and set up.
Well, if I use either the 8.8 or 12 bolt, I would have to use c-clip eliminators, aftermarket rear covers with cap supports,axles and posi units. With the Ranchero 9", would it have big axle bearings or would I have to change housing ends? Would the center chunk be usable or would I need to just buy a new aftermarket complete unit? I was planning on going with 4.11 or 4.30 gears, so those would need to purchased for any of the three. I appreciate all input.
How fast do you want to go on the big end? I would probably take the '57 rear and poke a 9" 31 spline chick in it.
I ran low 10's with my streetable 502 '67 Camaro, so I'd like to shoot for mid to high 10's with the coupe.
In essence the disc brakes are the c-clip eliminators on the 8.8. The fox body/mustang 8.8 eliminators won't work for the larger 31 spline axles. Also on the 9" I would figure in a back brace for that kind of power including 31 axles and big bearing ends.
Just got off the phone with a lady on the tech line for Strange and received a lot of contradictions and double talk. I've used Strange products in the past but this is the first time I tried to get some tech help from them. Still dazed and "cornfused".
Get the 9-inch. Get aftermarket axles in 31 or 33 spline. 33 is the max you can fit with stock bearing sizes in 3rd member. Get a spool with whatever gear ratio and you should be good without any reliability issues. If you get an aftermarket 3rd member, you can get 35 spline axles. The strength and aftermarket parts availability of the 9-inch makes it a good choice. If you are going to run on the street, get a detroit locker instead of the spool. It will pop and clunk around corners, but is still strong enough for transbrake. In my old drag race 70 Camaro, basic back half ladder bar car, I ran a 468 BBC, transbrake PG, and 9-inch with 33 spline axles and spool 4.86 gears. Stock 3rd member and stock narrowed housing with axles tubes welded all around, but no housing back reinforcement. Never had any trouble, even with 14x32 slicks and the pro-tree style brake. Drum brakes will work for what you need. Most braking is from the front brakes (you will be running front brakes right?), and you will not be doing repeated stops where drums heat up and fade. You will cool off between needing brakes. Your weight is fairly low which also helps the braking.
I'd use a Dana 60 out of an older 3/4 ton pickup truck. They are dirt cheap, and many already have good gears like 4.10, etc. Parts are available everywhere and the only aftermarket parts you will need are the axleshafts. Get good axles and narrow the housing to suit the axles. A MoPar car application Dana 60 would do the job, but they are really EXPENSIVE!
Heres a little recent experience with a lincoln versye 9" and 500+ hp.... I wanted it straight before I stuck expensive axles in, $$, did I mention axles?, $$, 31 or 35 spline axles means new carrier, $$, add the posi,$$, of course you'll want the big bearings, more $$ if not already in. Heres the bottom line. You can get a BRAND NEW housing built, end to end for about $350, maybe less. I paid $250 for mine and used only the housing which I would rather have a nice new, stout, straight one for the extra hun. Did I mention mine was bent and needed $$? If your going to go down the track (my intentions), the rearend is not the place to save a buck. jus thinkin.
Hey 55Chieftan, Using the disc brakes as your c-clip eliminators is that NHRA legal or just something a lot of guys do? Todztoyz, Who sells new housings for $350? Thanks to everyone who has responded, I could use some more suggestions. Anyone out there using an 8.8 Ford in a 600HP situation?
Local fabricator here in town. Quality work. Not mail order. I would think most small shops would be about the same. Theres not much to it if you're set up for it.
A 468 and a glide with a tranny brake!?!? You'd better go with the 9" but build you own because even that '57 setup won't hold up. A housing can be had for as low as 50 bucks. Then you'll NEED a nodular case. Fill it with whatever gear works for your setup and use. Get either a 31 spline posi, locker or spool and some Mosier axles with ARP studs. It would also help if you opted for a Mark Williams yoke but that's not totally necessary. Anything less WILL explode on the first launch! EDIT: B.T.W.: The Ford Explorer rear disc brakes are a direct bolt-on onto a Ford 9" housing.
I've got about $575.00 to $600.00 into my 9" without the disc brakes. About $50.00 to $100.00 for an Explorer setup from the junk yard.
31 spline nine inch. hands down. Some of the other setups may have a lower or even free entry price but in the long run there is so much out there for the nine inch both new and used it's not in the cards to build a racing rear end with something else. The other choice which is popular in this area would be an 8-3/4 Mopar. Dutchmans in Portland Oregon has 9 inch housings and new axles for 8 something made to fit using your center section, brakes and backing plates. brackets are an extra cost option though.
Someone else will have to fill you in on the rules for c clip eliminators. A guy at work runs a 8.8 in his Mustang, low 10's on a 2 stage. 33 spline axles, spool and big bearing 9" ends with disc brakes and welded tubes to the center and racing gears. It will take 600 hp but will need upgraded to be safe.
One more thumbs up on the Ford 9". I build quite a few and they are the best aftermarket/swap rear to use. Very simplistic and parts availability second to none. If you go bigger than 31 spline axles you can only run a spool, detroit locker or Wave locker (big bucks) Also what no one mentioned was installing all your bracketry BEFORE you install housing ends. If your brackets are not welded 360 degrees around the tube the tubes have a tendency to warp. If you do all your brackets first, then have the housing ends installed. OR make sure the brackets wrap all the way around the housing, cancelling out any warpage. I have a currie HD housing with 3 1/4 tubes that was barely used and needs shortened if interested. We also do new housing and axle packages from 875.00. New housing with Torino flanges are 350.00 and include free drain flange and plug. If you need any help feel free to pm me.
I'd go with a 9" with 31 spline axles... the '57 rear will have small bearing but you can install the big bearing ends yourself if you are handy... Moser is good.. so is the 9" factory... http://www.9inchfactory.com/
Buy the 57 ford rear even if you just resell it easy money use the new housing and 31 spine axles in your high horse application just use a 9 inch now or you'll wish you had later
No, it's not legal. The rotor will not keep the axle in the car if there is any side load, and there will be if the axle breaks on a pass...
go with the 9" almost unlimited choices for axles,gears, posi/spool/lockers and brakes. id go with a good thrid member strange ,currie summit, jeggs all have a really good heavy case for around $200.also go with a daytona pinion support...a few u-joint optins as well..like stated put a brace across the back...i like the late truck housing ,have the big set20 axle bearings and the housing has big webs....
Thanks everyone for the input. The concensus seems to be the 9" which I figured it would be. I've never run a 9" so don't know much about them except they're strong. I ran a Dana 60 in my Camaro and never had any problems, but they are so heavy. I didn't feel that I neede one in my lighter gasser. Waddayacare, thanks for the heads up on the Explorer discs, that'll save some bucks. Hey Bulletproof1, do you know of any good local rearend shops?
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