Nov. 2011 Banger thread. Really...November?

I am having problems with a Winfield SR carb. I bought this awhile back and am now in the process of cleaning and regasketing it. So far everything looks good and clean inside but I can't seem to be able to remove the brass plug with the four holes that is at the bottom of the float bowl. I understand there is a wafer in there that should be replaced.

I modified a spanner face wrench to fit the holes, tried soaking it with WD 40 and used a small propane torch to heat it. It will not budge. I dont want to brake anything so anybody have any ideas.

Is this pump worth the trouble? If I shut the pump needle wouldn't the carb be just like a S model? Thanks Ken

 

I had a 28 chev head on a model A and was going to use two single barrel carbs from 50's ford six they are almost the same as 97's but single barrel
I sold the motor before I got around to doing it
I have cast a ribbed aluminum valve cover for a 23 olds and it looked like it would fit the chev head except for the step down in the middle of the head
I still have the valve cover I think there is a pic on my page

 

Try to soak the bowl in Seafoam..... It's really good stuff

 

Kenagain ... Couldn't find the pic of the Olds valve cover. Could you post it again. Thanks

Ron

 

Here are a few of the pictures, I originally had the casting process from the tin valve cover redo to the final product as done in a foundry

 

Cool cover! I don't supose ya got an extra one laying around.

Ron

 

Very nice cover you have yhere. i have a 28 Chev I got from JimmyB to put on my A motor......one day

 

Is a S-1-B with a AAD boil to much carb for a stock A

A 94 worked on my last stock banger
So I think it should be fine. I know some where it the banger threads are some CFM # but I could not find any last night
Thanks Bill

 

Remember CFM numbers unless you know the "inches of water" the readings are taken at. Holley for example uses a different vacuum in CFM testing for 2 barrels and 4 barrels!

 

I have an extra one no holes drilled in it the olds had 2 hold down bolts at each end, and my chev head had 1 in the center. I still have the mold and can make more
pm me for price

 

My wifes uncle plays with 2 cylinder John Deeres and helped me build some wide 5 wheels today. We got talking about magnetos and he has ONE NOS Wico 4cyl Mag, origin unknown but it has a gear on the back. Also has ONE with a 2cyl cap, also NOS. I will try and get pictures but they are for sale, I mentioned to him that some of you folk might be interested. PM me.

 

Holley and most other carburetor manufacturers rate C.F.M. by the SAE standardised method .

That SAE method uses 1-1/2 inches of mercury for 4 barrel carburetors and 3 inches of mercury “Vacuum” for 1 barrel and 2 barrel carburetors.
Testing is performed at documented barometric pressure and temperature , and/or corrected to the standard .

 

The original AA series "94" Holleys introduced in 1937/8 for flathead V8s had a bore size of .94 inches and were designed to feed a 221 cube motor so it is hardly a stretch of the laws of physics for one to work on a 200 cubic inch banger .
As long as it has 94 cast into it and it hasn't been dicked with, one should work for you.

"94s" are part of the 2100 series Holley family and are normally rated at about 155 cfm. Others such as ECG and later performance versions are rated between 185 and 210 cfm.
However some rare carbs with 1 and 5/32 throat are rated as high as 310 cfm .(list #3903)

There was even a very small Stromberg 81 replacement version for the V8-60s with ( wonder of wonders) 7/8 bore or 0.81" .

 

I need to pick up some gaskets and do some pluming but the winfield is all test fitted up. Now for the joy of tuning this bad boy.

Now it's time to pull the pan for a good cleaning. After pulling the side cover to check out the Distributor gear (it looked like a saw blade) and found 1/2" of crap I can only guess what I will find in there

 

Been gone over the holiday.

The winfield factory recommended using the next size smaller float chamber as a cure for stumbling. As to the pump, when they first came out most users didn't feel they helped so they would turn the bottom plate 1 hole blocking off the pump port and running the screw all the way down.

Regarding tuning, I have set them according to the Winfield instructions, with a Color tune, and a Edelbrock oxygen fuel ratio meter and I seem to come out with the same settings +- 1 to 2 teeth . The float chamber must be level while tuning. The Winfield manifolds were milled within 2 3/4 to 3 degrees off level, at least the ones I have/have had were. I usually ended up with 27 28 on the intermediates on the "S" "B"'s then 5 more on the high. When tuning by the Winfield method, I use a portable large tach.The Winfield method is mostly by sound and feel. I do my initial setting at my shop, 3800' but have learned to leave them alone at Fontana, 1000'. But hey , a couple of clicks ain't going to hurt at the drags. Just remember, there are no secrets just 3 simple circuits. The little slot in the butterfly takes care of the off idle transition. The pump was a sop to the ad men who felt the company was using old fashioned technology and needed a pump because everyone else had one.

 

^^^^^^^^
thanks Bill I will keep you posted
It will be the weekend before I get to do some real playing

 

I do think he was referring to the "AA" size Winfield bowl or float chamber. I believe I read one time that Ed Winfield said the "B" would flow around 120 CFM. This may not be accurate but that is what I remember

 

Well, I lost it again over on the "Barn", some guy was afraid to drive his restored "A", afraid it might break down and he would have to have it towed as he couldn't fix it! It seems some one has posted that you shouldn't tow the car from the front axle nor should you jack it up with the jack in the center of the front axle and this brings all of the "worry warts" out. Henry made them tough for the times. Gas, Water, and Oil, Tires that hold air, Throw your head back and drive!!! (just don't forget your rope!)

 

Some people just don't get it. I like guys like that they are saving them for my kids.
My boys will need a real nice car to start with.
Don't tell the guy that I had to run to the store after 10 tonight and I took my A
It was very dark and the roads where a little wet and I had to park it in a big parking lot with other cars. But after a hard day of work it was fun and I took the long way home.

 

After my trip to the store. I pulled the pan on the Tudor and it looks all stock. I can see a big stack of shims still in the rods. The engine sounds real nice I just wanted to clean all the old oil out. Start fresh. Now that I have to do a new seal up front I think I will put a B front cover on and use my new B dist.

 

Looks good from here.

 

Rare vertical block Ford

 

I seem to recall reading somewhere that back in the day it was said that if you didn't have a jack, the A oil pan was designed to be able to run up on a log to get the front wheels off the ground to fix a flat. Didn't say how to get it off though.

 

Maybe that's how the oil pump got broken in my "A" tractor!

 

Damn, I'm jealous!

 

I was thinking the same thing
My kids and I could have a lot of fun with one of those
The wife not so much

 

The previous operator continued to run the engine after the pump was broken, apparently molten babbitt makes a good lubricant as the crank was only slightly scratched. Another spare time project, at a yard sale I found a side drive governor for the A engine. If anyone is interested I'll take pictures of the governor, would be a deluxe piece for a tractor. Pat

 

2 stories about a model"A" tractor, I bought one from a friends parents. A shop build from a local farm repair shop. "A" engine worm drive rear end,4 speed "AA" trans very low ratio worm drive. A friend borrowed it to pull a stump. I specifically told him to hook the chain to the "drawbar" under the axle. When I went to pick it up the steering wheel was severely bent. He said that he had hooked the chain under the seat rather than the drawbar. Now, when this is done the pulling vehicle tends to drive out from under itself. That is what happened, he was on his back, laying on the stump after falling as the tractor had climbed out from under him. As the tractor came over he put his feet on the steering wheel the engine died and had so little compression he was able to push it back over!!!

Second story, a friend bought a dragster with a Alexander OVH engine. Body painted black and a lot of polished aluminum. He towed to my house and we got it running. He asked me to drive it over to our mutual friend's house for some reason lost in all of these years. Why, of course I would drive it, first experience with locked rear end, but that is another story. This would be about a mile, right past the home of my friends parents where I had purchased the afore mentioned "A" shop built tractor. As I passed their house they happened to be standing out by the road, as I went by probably turning 3 or 4 grand with a 4" short straight chrome pipe booming up the side . My friends mother called him an said "Chuck, you can't believe what Bill has done to that tractor!"

 

Pure Nostalgia! Pat

 

Ruler!