I am going to paint the Steering wheel on my 59 Chevy. I sanded off the rattle can paint a previous owner put on and filled the cracks/chips. It feels like the wheel is plastic. Do I need to use Fusion paint on it, or will regular primer work? I was planning on putting lacquer over it.
I used the same paint I used on my roof on my steering wheel. sanded it, filled it, primed, sanded again and then seal & spray. Mine came out pretty damn slick....no problems since november.....
What do you guys reccomend for filler on wheels? Mine is in good shape, but has a small crack up top. Thicker than a hairline, but not much.
I had this POR15 epoxy putty. They sell the same stuff for floor pan repair, steering wheel repair, etc. It's all the same stuff. Feels like clay, dries like steel. I mixed it up, schmooshed it in, let it dry, sanded it smooth. I think they have directions on their website. I have tons, Tony, if you need some, send me a PM.
I painted mine with rattle can primer and some gloss black krylon less than a year ago. It already needs to be redone, it's gotten chips all over. I saw some ad for a new paint for plastic. I can't remember what brand...I was thinking about trying that. I didn't clear it, maybe thats the problem.
I have done 2 steering wheels recently, 59 Impala and 64 Impala. Both had some big and some little cracks. I hogged the cracks out with a file until I hit the metal ring Filled the cracks with a 2 part epoxy I got from the Pool supply store for $15, same stuff I saw on one of the pro-sites. It's kind of a putty you knead together. Sand, primer, sand, primer, sand Painted the wheel with some single stage Urethane when I painted my dash.
Joe, dontcha know I'm SOOO glad you asked this question! I know I need to repaint the red one in my 58 Chev......it's original color is showing thru AND I know a Doll that needs to fill some serious snags on hers before she has to buy stock in Band Aids! xxx Brandy
Sand the old finish well and use "Icing" [glazing putty with hardener]... It sands easily and is tough too...... I always use Automotive Acrylic enamel with hardener and a flex agent as you would on a rubber bumper...it looks factory and will last forever!
I hear the phrase 'clear coat' bandied about a lot. I've used both clear laquer and clear enamel on various projects through the years. I'm no pro paint guy so I don't know what lasts and what doesn't but it sounds like it would take more than just clear rattle can to keep hand oils, dirt, and grime from messing up your wheel restoration. What is the badass version of clear coat?
Glad ya brought this up too. I have the wheel for my 53 all sanded down (it's a 59 impala wheel), cracks hogged out and ready for filler..but i didn't know what to use. I have JB wend here, and thought about using it..but didn't really know if that was a good idea or not. I thought the JB might be too hard.. I was worried about flex in the wheel, and because the JB wont flex i'd end up with cracks again.... Hmmm....... I must ponder this.
I've heard good things about PC-7 epoxy, although I've not had an excuse to use it yet. You should be able to find it at the local Hardware store. -r
I used lacquer. Came up good 6-7 years ago. A few cracks now. After a long drive my hands do have a reddish tinge to them. But it was cheap fast and easy. Just paint the thing
I still dont understand why people use laquer. Maybe cuz its fast?? It must be, because its not durable, its not that shiny unless you polish it all the time, its thin (10 coats of hand rubbed laquer. Ive heard that a few times) and it doesnt hold up to solvents or UV very well. I strip the crap off cars all the time. Maybe it would be OK inside on a steering wheel though? The urethane paints of today are so much better. Even a cheap one like Nason or OMNI is better then laquer. I have painted a few steering wheels with Nason Fulthane urethane and they have held up great. I painted one for a concourse quality Cord with Fulthane and it looks great still. For cracks I used some black repair Epoxy. As for badass clears, there are alot of brands who make clears. PPG has some nice ones, dupont, I use alot of Spies Hecker(thats my paint system at the shop) and it is awesome. Sikkens has some nice ones too. They are spendy though, I paid about $400 for the clear on my car, without hardener. But mixed you get almost 2 gallons. Is it shiny? hell ya. Is it durable? yes. You cut and buff it and it stays shiny forever, and its thick with 3 coats, not 30. Well worth it if you figure it will last for 20 or 30 years, or more if cared for.
I've used two kinds for my electric guitar bodies if I have to rattle can it. One is a duplicolor clear epoxy enamel, single stage in the can. hard finish, can be built up and polished out. The secret is to let it cure a good two weeks before buffing. The second is a UV stable polyurethane like on wood floors. Not all are UV stable and can yellow if it doesn't specifically say that the UV stabilizers are added. Again, the secret is to spray 3 coats, let cure for 2 weeks then buff out. The urethane has some flex so that gets my nod for 99 percent of the time. FWIW, I use nitrocellulose laquer exclusively on my acoustic project with thinner coats since catalyzed enamel or urethane would ruin the tone.
Randy, I agree, PC7 is by far the best two part epoxy I've ever used. It's more spendy but that stuff really works. It won't shrink or anything, but it's pretty damn hard. It might be best to undercut the epoxy wwith a file and use a catalyzed glazing putty over the top.
PC7 is best IMO, used it recently on my banjo wheel and it works great. Try to keep from too much excess and it will be easier to clean up. I will paint my wheel with rattle can primer and paint. Last one I did still holding up after 7-8 years.
How about if the stuff on top is cracked and the metal inside has rusted (surface)? What will clean that out enough to allow stuff to stick in there without making the cracks bigger(i.e. grinding, sanding, etc.)? Any ideas?
I have found that PC7 will bind to almost anything if it is prepped a bit. Use a V file to open up the crack a bit and a string file (or fingernail file--my wife would scream if she knew) to clean up the crack to the metal, then PC7 it and press it all the way down (I use half a wooden clothespin). Bondo works okay too but I am more satisfied with PC7, it is available at Ace and other hardware stores and is very easy to work. Try to not overdo it though, it is tough to sand, I use a heavy grit to knock it down then fine to finish.
Christ.....guys piss and moan about anything, Whine that someone makes a post that duplicates another. Now someone bitches cause someone used the search before posting. How can anyone please some of you guys!!!!??????
I am a big advocate of adhesion promoters on odd surfaces. I've used Bulldog and the one sold by Sherwin Williams stores. I agree with the use of a flex additive in any thing you spray that is a plastic or somewhat flexible surface( yeah, you have to mix it and spray through your detail gun ). As to the clear coats, for the guys that don't know, most clears now are catalized urethane. these lay out and build smoother then most others.More importantly, if laid out right, you don't need to rub it out!!!! I have shot several wheels using this stuff and I can even beat on them with the music (rings on and all) and the shit takes it like any molded in color!!!!
The Jalopy Journal
